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One channel not working


allanard

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Hi, all channels were working fine now channel 7 isn't working at all. Even when testing lights, playing lights etc etc nothing.... Anyone got a solution, very frustrating....

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oh no....another 4 have stopped working!!! i had 6 mini trees along the very front...its feeling kinda lonely out there all on its lonesome? please any suggestions will be a step closer to having it 100% for my switch on night!!!

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so they were working and have now stopped working?

I would power off the controllers and then turn them back on again - go to your PC that controls the show, start the LOR hardware utility, refresh the list of controllers, then select the controller that controls the mini trees and turn on all channels. IF they work doing that, then test a sequence, if they don't work then you have a problem in your sequence. If they do work then your problem is solved.

You should also check things like power to that controller, the cords from the controller to the minis and the fuses in the minis.

Edited by craigh
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Thanks for that...I have checked all those things you've suggested...there's no power coming from the controller on those channels...the lights work fine on other channels. I have started a ticket with lor...is there any DIY diagrams for the control board in the unit...our closest electrician with these type of skills is about 3 hours away??

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Did you do a reset of the board?

If it's a 1600 series Generation 1 or 2 (metal enclosure and no LED display inside), disconnect the power, set the unit ID switches to 0-0, and reapply power. The status light will blink very fast. Wait a few seconds, remove power, change the Unit ID switches back to where they were and reapply power. You've reset the board.

If it's a 1600 series Generation 3 (metal enclosure with LED display inside), disconnect the power, press the up and down buttons simultaneously and reapply power. The display will show '0000.' Wait a few seconds, release the up and down buttons, the controller will be reset and return to normal operation in about two seconds.

If it's a CTB-16PC series Generation 1 or 2 (typically in a plastic enclosure, red status light and has a jumper block to the right of the data cable connectors), disconnect the power, remove the jumper next to the data connectors (usually in the second position (or J2)) and reapply power. The status light will blink very fast. Wait a few seconds, remove power, replace the jumper on the J2 position and reapply power. You've reset the board. Go into the Hardware Utility and make sure the board is assigned to the correct physical location where it was before the reset.

If it's a CTB-16PC series Generation 3 (typically in a plastic enclosure, green status light and has a jumper block to the left of the data cable connectors), disconnect the power. On JP3, counting from the left, move the jumper on pins 4 and 5 over one notch to pins 5 and 6. Reapply power. The status light will blink very fast. Wait a few seconds, remove power, move the jumper pack to pins 4 and 5. Reapply power. You've reset the board. Go into the Hardware Utility and make sure the board is assigned to the correct physical location where it was before the reset.

If it's a CTB-32 controller board (typically with a green status light), disconnect the power from the controller. On reset header JP3 (just to the lower left of the data cable connectors), counting from the left, remove the jumper between pins 4 and 5. Power up the controller and the Status LED should flash rapidly. Disconnect the power from the controller and put the jumper back on between Pins 4 and 5 of the reset header JP3 (MAKE SURE OF ITS LOCATION). Power up the controller.

Now, run your tests again.

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