Going to be Assembling the CTB16K Hobbyist Board

[Guest guest]

Last year I bought a LOR1602W and was very happy and this year...

I am going to buy one or two of the Hobbyist boards - CTB16D (Boards assembled - Needs to be mounted in a enclosure and wired.) I found the company that manufactures the enclosures that are used on the LOR1602 and plan on using that for the Enclosure. The Input and output wires can be bought from LOR and the Board. The reason I am trying to build the Hobbyist boards the same as the LOR1602 is so that everything Is Uniform and I can trace problems easier if they are built the same.

If anyone wants the enclosures I am going to buy they can be found at the link below. I believe these are the same enclosures Dan uses. http://www.enclosures4less.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=19045&CategoryID=4506

The Questions I have are:

1. Is there anything else I need to finish the Controllers?

2. Do I need stand offs and if so were can I get these.

3. What are the things circled in red in the picture below and where can I get these.

4. Is there any where I can get the stickers that come on the enclosures when you buy the LOR1602 ?

Is there anywhere you can point me (Treads - Websites - etc.). I have already look at the Instruction manuals from the LOR Site.


Thanks Ricky


Attached files

[Guest guest]

I have not wired this kit in particular. The things in the circles (metal part) are wire clamps or cable clamps consisting of a housing a pinch plate and screws and a nut the plastic parts are bushings. You can buy them at Home Depot or Lowes even some better hardware stores. Take the enclosure with you to get the right size.

[Guest guest]

Thanks.

Ricky

[Guest guest]

Richard III wrote:

I found the company that manufactures the enclosures that are used on the LOR1602. The reason I am trying to build the Hobbyist boards the same as the LOR1602 is so that everything Is Uniform and I can trace problems easier if they are built the same.

I believe these are the same enclosures Dan uses.

Ricky,

Those don't look exactly like the LOR boxes but should work just fine. As to trace problems easier, I'm not sure how different boxes will make a difference, but it might.

Thanks for sharing the link though,

Tom

[Guest guest]

I read you post to fast and missed that you were building the CTB16 D.These are the ones I bought and assembled last year. They do come with standoffs if you get the model with the HD heatsinks. The only thing you should need is an enclosure ( you have that figured out) the clamps and bushings, and 4 screws to hold the heatsinks to the enclosure. As for stickers good luck. Maybe if you sweet talk Mary or Dan you can get them from LOR.

[Guest guest]

are you wanting to stay with metal enclosures?
The enclosures that LOR is using now I think are plastic. And since I won't have my order until Monday, I can't tell you, maybe someone else has gotten an order and can....but IF the LOR enlosure comes with the hardware included...their $25 price is not a bad deal at all

[Guest guest]

Santas Helper wrote:

Richard III wrote:

I found the company that manufactures the enclosures that are used on the LOR1602. The reason I am trying to build the Hobbyist boards the same as the LOR1602 is so that everything Is Uniform and I can trace problems easier if they are built the same.

I believe these are the same enclosures Dan uses.

Ricky,

Those don't look exactly like the LOR boxes but should work just fine. As to trace problems easier, I'm not sure how different boxes will make a difference, but it might.

Thanks for sharing the link though,

Tom

I opened up the LOR Encloser that came with the LOR1602 and matched the Item number to the one on the site. So I am pretty sure the enclosers are the same but not entierly sure and I dont think the picture on the site is corect. As for being able to trace problems mabey not but they will look good. Mabey I am a Neatfreak.

[line]

Roger Dearing wrote:

are you wanting to stay with metal enclosures?
The enclosures that LOR is using now I think are plastic. And since I won't have my order until Monday, I can't tell you, maybe someone else has gotten an order and can....but IF the LOR enlosure comes with the hardware included...their $25 price is not a bad deal at all

I don't belive you can buy just the enclosers by themselves from LOR. I like the Idea of metal enclosers better than Placstic ones.


[line]


Toymakr000 wrote:

I read you post to fast and missed that you were building the CTB16 D.These are the ones I bought and assembled last year. They do come with standoffs if you get the model with the HD heatsinks. The only thing you should need is an enclosure ( you have that figured out) the clamps and bushings, and 4 screws to hold the heatsinks to the enclosure. As for stickers good luck. Maybe if you sweet talk Mary or Dan you can get them from LOR.

Ok so these Hobbyist boards come with the standoffs but don't include the Screws for attaching the heatsinks. I plan on using the Heavy duty Heatsinks.

[line]

Thanks everyone for your help so far. Ricky

[Guest guest]

The kits do include screws for the circuitboard to the heatsink but not the heatsink to the enclosure. I used qty.(4) 8-32X1/2 to attach mine into the enclosure. They probably only cost 40 cents with nuts.

[Guest guest]

Richard III wrote:

but they will look good. Mabey I am a Neatfreak.

[line]

Ricky, I'm sure they will look just as good (and maybe they "are" the same product). And there is nothing wrong about being a neatfreak :].

The man upstairs knows I've got my certain neatfreak ways too. Too bad it doesn't pertain to my garage :laughing:.

You still have a good idea there.

Tom

[Guest guest]

Thanks Tom and Toymakr000

[Guest guest]

Those boxes should work. The two large connectors that you see is 1 1/4". On the bottom of the box there are two 1 1/4" knockouts. They are close together and a snug fit to get them both in but it will work.

You will need to get something(some place) to get all your ground wires mounted. It is best to mount the heatsink directly to the back of the box. That way the box becomes an extension of your heatsinks and makes everthing run cooler (and a cool controller is a happy controller:)

[Guest guest]

LightORama wrote:

Those boxes should work. The two large connectors that you see is 1 1/4". On the bottom of the box there are two 1 1/4" knockouts. They are close together and a snug fit to get them both in but it will work.

You will need to get something(some place) to get all your ground wires mounted. It is best to mount the heatsink directly to the back of the box. That way the box becomes an extension of your heatsinks and makes everthing run cooler (and a cool controller is a happy controller:)

What are stand offs used for then. Sorry I found the Anwser. ( the stand oofs hld the LOR board off the heatsinks.

I just lloked at the user guid for the CTB16D and it dose not show how to install the Heatsink. I lloked at the user guid to the CTB16K (Kit) and it has instructions on how to install the heatsink. My Question is can I use the instructions from the Kit to install the heatsink

I think that is all the questions I have right now but I am sure I will have more when I acually order and get the Board. Hey mabey it will be esay enough I woon;t need to ask questions.

Thanks Ricky

[Guest guest]

Richard III wrote:

What are stand offs used for then. Sorry I found the Anwser. ( the stand offs hold the LOR board off the heatsinks.

I just looked at the user guid for the CTB16D and it dose not show how to install the Heatsink. I looked at the user guid to the CTB16K (Kit) and it has instructions on how to install the heatsink. My Question is can I use the instructions from the Kit to install the heatsink

I think that is all the questions I have right now but I am sure I will have more when I acually order and get the Board. Hey mabey it will be esay enough I woon;t need to ask questions.

Thanks Ricky

The CTB16D's kit manual shows how to install heatsinks.

If you purchase an assembled card (either a 16PC or a 16D) the card comes with the heatsinks installed.

[Guest guest]

The Wiegmann RSC101004 enclosure is the exact one I used last year to build by controller. Attached is a picture of the final product.

The bushings the wires run through were purchased at Lowes.
The metal straps you see attached to the back of the box also came from Lowes. They were located in the lumber section where the metal pieces are used to tie decking lumber together.

Good luck with your project!


Attached files

[Guest guest]

Gris,

I recently put two boxes together that look exactly as yours... My question is, Do you have any play on the cables? what size are the bushings? I had some play in the cable bundles, I had to shoot silicon into the space take up any extra room and seal the box.



greg

[Guest guest]

Griswold wrote:

The Wiegmann RSC101004 enclosure is the exact one I used last year to build by controller. Attached is a picture of the final product.

The bushings the wires run through were purchased at Lowes.
The metal straps you see attached to the back of the box also came from Lowes. They were located in the lumber section where the metal pieces are used to tie decking lumber together.

Good luck with your project!

How did you Ground the pigtails to the box.

[Mark Belgen]

Richard III wrote:

Last year I bought a LOR1602W and was very happy and this year...

I am going to buy one or two of the Hobbyist boards - CTB16D (Boards assembled - Needs to be mounted in a enclosure and wired.) I found the company that manufactures the enclosures that are used on the LOR1602 and plan on using that for the Enclosure. The Input and output wires can be bought from LOR and the Board. The reason I am trying to build the Hobbyist boards the same as the LOR1602 is so that everything Is Uniform and I can trace problems easier if they are built the same.

If anyone wants the enclosures I am going to buy they can be found at the link below. I believe these are the same enclosures Dan uses. http://www.enclosures4less.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=19045&CategoryID=4506

The Questions I have are:

1. Is there anything else I need to finish the Controllers?

2. Do I need stand offs and if so were can I get these.

3. What are the things circled in red in the picture below and where can I get these.

4. Is there any where I can get the stickers that come on the enclosures when you buy the LOR1602 ?

Is there anywhere you can point me (Treads - Websites - etc.). I have already look at the Instruction manuals from the LOR Site.


Thanks Ricky

Heh thanks for the Enclosure Vendor link. Great site with great prices.

Also, you are smart in using a metal enclosure. The metal will provide an additional heat sink for the PCBA heatsink, keeping the SSR's even cooler. The cooler that you can keep them, the longer they will last.:cool:

In addition, this enclosure provides no pathway for water which is what you want as it will probably be placed outside. LOR did a great job in spec'ing out these enclosures.

As an Electrical Engineer at Johnson & Johnson, I do know what I am talking about.

[Ponddude]

Just reading up on all these posts here with a ton of great information. I keep reading from everyone, including Dan, about how great the metal enclosures are for keeping things cool. I have the 16PC boards and although they come from LOR with a plastic enclosure, should I switch over to metal?

Just want to make the boards last as long as humanly possible...

Greg

[Mark Belgen]

Ponddude wrote:

Just reading up on all these posts here with a ton of great information. I keep reading from everyone, including Dan, about how great the metal enclosures are for keeping things cool. I have the 16PC boards and although they come from LOR with a plastic enclosure, should I switch over to metal?

Just want to make the boards last as long as humanly possible...

Greg

As a Reliability Engineer at a major medical device company, I can tell you that these boards are well designed and the enclosures are also well spec'd out.
If you are using the lower power configuration and you limit your current draw accordingly, you'll be fine.
I won't get into the details of predicted life (MTBF) for the SSR's based on the estimated average sustained current draw with the average enclosure internal operating temperature, etc., but in laymans terms, cooler is always better. It will extend the useful life of the components and ensure stable operation. But there is always an additional cost for this.

If you're usage will be low power, then you are fine with the plastic enclosures. If however, you are looking to pull an average 15 amps per bank (8) of SSR's, then I would highly recommend the metal enclosure as LOR uses. The metal enclosure provides an additional thermal path for the heat to dissipate to the outside.

Like I said, they have spec'd out a beautiful board married to an appropriate enclosure. The metal enclosure design could easily be UL/CSA/TUV certified, so long as they are Hipot testing the assy's.

And remember, should you choose to use a metal enclosure, it is of no value (in terms of improved component reliability) if the SSR heatsink is not mechanically (Thermally) attached to the metal enclosure.:cool: