Jump to content

CTB16PC's, LED's, Megatree questions


Guest guest
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest guest

I'm planning on a c6 LED megatree, 4 colors (RWBG), 16 strands per color, 48 channels total.

I want to find a metal box to securely mount at the base of the megatree to prevent theft/vandalism. Inside the box I will mount 4 CTB16PC's, and 24 2-outlet wall plugs, which I read can be converted to single's by breaking off the tabs connecting them. I'm not too crazy with the idea of 48 dangling cords, I think the outlets would make setup easier. Also inside would be a power strip to connect the 4 boards to.

Questions:

Since I'm running LED's, I believe the regular CTB16PC heatsinks are adequate. Is there any reason I should upgrade to the high power heatsinks? @$18x4 =$72 extra, that's half of another board I could get.:]

Does the CTB16PC's require a ground? I'm planning on using SPT2 cord to connect each channel to an outlet plug. I'm wondering if I could also use SPT2 to go from the board to the power strip, or if I need the ground wire.

Would it be a good idea to replace the 15 amp fuses with 10 amp fuses based on the SPT2 amp rating? I'm not going to use anything but LED's, so I won't get anywhere near 10 amps, but wondering from a safety standpoint.

Anyone know of a cheap source for a metal box that will fit 4 boards & outlets? I'm probably going to search out local scrap/surplus stores. I've seen some military ammo boxes for sale that might work.

Anything else I might need to know?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

You can cut the tabs on the outlet and wire the outlets to 2 separate circuits....but 64 channels in outlets is gonna take up A LOT of room! And they should be in a "outdoor" enclosure. 8 duplex outlets take up 16" x 4". Multiply that by 4 (64ch) and you have 16" by 16" plus any room for boxes and connectors. I think you'd be better of running the pigtales and save a ton of room and hassle.

I used 8 duplex (w/ cut tabs) for 16 ch in '06, plus 2 for relay's and it took up 21" by 6".

In my opinion ALWAYS run a ground. Run one to the box, to the enclosure and to the outlets if you use them.

Hope this helps,

Scott



Attached files 126882=7534-mini-IMG_1273.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

skibozo wrote:

Questions:

Since I'm running LED's, I believe the regular CTB16PC heatsinks are adequate. Is there any reason I should upgrade to the high power heatsinks? @$18x4 =$72 extra, that's half of another board I could get.:]

Does the CTB16PC's require a ground? I'm planning on using SPT2 cord to connect each channel to an outlet plug. I'm wondering if I could also use SPT2 to go from the board to the power strip, or if I need the ground wire.

Would it be a good idea to replace the 15 amp fuses with 10 amp fuses based on the SPT2 amp rating? I'm not going to use anything but LED's, so I won't get anywhere near 10 amps, but wondering from a safety standpoint.



The low power heats sinks are fine for applications with no more than 8 amps per 8-channel bank. The only disadvantage I can think of is mounting the boards. Normally you attach the controller to its box by the high power (regular) heat sinks -- you would need standoffs with the low power heats sinks.

A ground is not required but may help in extreme situations. E.g. if the box filled with water the power should favor the ground and pop a breaker rather than going up the data cable. In any event, I agree with Scott -- "ALWAYS run a ground."

The fuses are to protect the board. The cumulative current of individual channels can far exceed what the copper traces can stand. If you were to put 6 amps on each channel, that would be almost 50 amps on a side. While it's a good idea to protect the power cord, it's your call on replacing the fuses.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...