Torqumada286 Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 I've had it for a couple of weeks now, but due to family and work schedules, I wasn't able to do any work on it. I started on the frame. It was very hot and humid yesterday and by the time I had the boards cut for the frame, I was soaked with sweat. I assembled the frame and put the coro board on the frame and decided to move everything inside.Inside of the house, where it was much cooler, I applied all of the lights and the grabbed the appropriate controller for the face. I then discovered that half of the labels I had made for this controller when I put it together had the ink run on it for some reason and the numbers were missing. I then had to go back and test the power cables and find out what channel was what. Once that was done, I got everything plugged in and had to fix some of the lights that weren't working. Once that was finished, I was then able to test the face. Everything worked properly, but it did take a good amount of time for the problem solving. On to my next project(s)!Torqumada
EARLE W. TALLEY Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 If you are using the normal black dangle cord set with the controller, a silver sharpie works wonders and will last several years. I marked some of mine 4 years ago and they still look good.
eeek Posted September 3, 2012 Posted September 3, 2012 If you know a cable guy or can hunt one down, they have address ID tags that work well.
Torqumada286 Posted September 3, 2012 Author Posted September 3, 2012 I went with the Silver sharpie. It worked well.Now I'm looking at making one of my own. Torqumada
Orville Posted September 4, 2012 Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) Paint Pens also work well for marking the dangles too. Only drawback is they take a wee bit longer to dry than the silver sharpie. I also mark my power cords since I use the dual cord set up.I mark one with the controller ID # and the letter A and the other with just the ID #.The main cord that supplies the power to the card and channels 9-16 is marked for example is: 01A, and the other for channels 1-8 is just marked 01. This way I know to plug in 01A first for main power to the controller/ch's. 9-16 and then 01 for the first bank of channels {1-8}. And I know those power cords belong to controller #01.Although it doesn't really matter which cord you actually plug in first, it will work either way. But having 5 controllers all plugged into the same area, this just makes it easier to know which power cords go to which controllers when plugging/unplugging for having to do a reset of a specific controller, or when doing a set up/take down of the controllers. Edited September 4, 2012 by Orville
MtDew4me Posted September 4, 2012 Posted September 4, 2012 Torqumada, I hate to mention this now but you may want to consider putting a coat or 2 of black paint on the wood frame to waterproof it. It also helps hide the frame at certain viewing angles.
Torqumada286 Posted September 5, 2012 Author Posted September 5, 2012 I may do something like that Orville. Thanks for the advice.TorqumadaTorqumada, I hate to mention this now but you may want to consider putting a coat or 2 of black paint on the wood frame to waterproof it. It also helps hide the frame at certain viewing angles.I'm using pressure treated lumber. It's already pretty dark.Torqumada
MonstrousMike Posted September 5, 2012 Posted September 5, 2012 I used 2x2s instead of 2x4s. Much lighter and less bulky, but still quite sturdy. I painted the frames with flat black exterior paint before assembling. This seems to have worked pretty well.
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