Lor And Ac Power 230V?

[simonthk]

I am about to buy some LOR stuff. But I cant quite figure out if I can use them in europe? It seems for me that the output from the controller is AC power, so that I can add any AC powered light to the output? And do the fading, twinkling, blinking etc with just any normal AC powered light?

And can I use LOR with 230v? Is the output 230v? And where do I buy the controllers for that voltage?

Thank you

[Orville]

I don't know about the new CTB16PC Gen3 controllers, but the ones I have, the voltage is selected by removing and setting 2 jumpers for either 120V or 240V use.

120V = two jumpers on all pins, that is 1 jumper across the first set of 2 pins and 1 jumper on the other set of 2 pins.

120 VAC jumper example: [][] Where the [] represent the jumpers 1 and 2

240V = 1 single jumper set on pin 2 from jumper 1's location and pin 1 from jumper 2's location, leaving, 1 pin exposed on each side of the jumper block, pin 1 from jumper 1 is exposed and pin 2 from jumper 2 is exposed.

240VAC jumper example: 1[]2, little black jumper block represent by [] is now located centered for 240VAC. Exposed pins represented by the 1 and 2.

Hope this helps and doesn't sound too confusing.

So I'd think most any controller should work as long as you have the correct type plug for your power receptacles and set the jumpers for your voltage requirements...

Edited July 24, 2012 by Slipstream

[james campbell]

check out page 8 in the ctb 16 pc user manual http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/CTB16PCg3_UserMan_Web.pdf

[Orville]

Thanks for posting that James. I tried to locate that, but the datasheet and manuals I clicked on all kept taking me to a CTB16D from the CTB16PC pages I was looking at. That's what I was trying to find before I posted my commentary above. Glad someone knew where to find it!

[spomalley]

Plenty of people use LightORama in Europe, you can even ask LOR to do what has been described above for you Free Of Charge! The only thing you may have trouble with is the cordsets. You will either have to make your own or buy adapters for LOR's ones. Yes you can plug most types of AC light to the output although when using christmas lights note that lights with multifunction controllers will not behave well when sequenced (No fault of LORs).

Edited July 24, 2012 by spomalley

[Max-Paul]

You would think for as long as I have been around here that I would know the answer to the following question. But then too, I dont do 220 or 240 volts.

I buy and build up the 16PC kit and there are two sets of resistors that are over by the opto and the triac. If I remember correctly, you install the 220 ohm for use on 110V and 330 if using on 220V. Is that correct? So, if I was buying a controller that is already built. Wouldn't there be more to it than just changing out the jumpers on the transformer primary coils?

[edvas69]

You would think for as long as I have been around here that I would know the answer to the following question. But then too, I dont do 220 or 240 volts.

I buy and build up the 16PC kit and there are two sets of resistors that are over by the opto and the triac. If I remember correctly, you install the 220 ohm for use on 110V and 330 if using on 220V. Is that correct? So, if I was buying a controller that is already built. Wouldn't there be more to it than just changing out the jumpers on the transformer primary coils?

The controller has a jumper that requires changing, I remember when i got my boards a few years ago that they were already set for 220/240v operation.

All that is needed is to ensure that the bridge terminal is set for 220/240, this is what selects the correct resistance value to be used.

[Max-Paul]

The controller has a jumper that requires changing, I remember when i got my boards a few years ago that they were already set for 220/240v operation.

All that is needed is to ensure that the bridge terminal is set for 220/240, this is what selects the correct resistance value to be used.

I was good till the last sentence. On the PC boards the resistors that I was refering to are hard wired (soldered) to the board.

[digdeepfundraising]

Yes they do work on 240/220v I brought 4 gen 3 and they were all set to 240/220v and they all work but now I want to run 2 on 110v and all I had to do was add a extra jumper to make it 110v and that info came from dan at light o Rama and all 4 are working fine

Dan

[Lee Long]

I buy and build up the 16PC kit and there are two sets of resistors that are over by the opto and the triac. If I remember correctly, you install the 220 ohm for use on 110V and 330 if using on 220V. Is that correct? So, if I was buying a controller that is already built. Wouldn't there be more to it than just changing out the jumpers on the transformer primary coils?

I built a few pc kits and there are 2 sets of resistors and the instruction manual states 1 set for 110v use and 1 set for 240v use, solder in the relevent resistor as per your requirements. I agree with you Max-Paul surely there is more to it than just moving a jumper!

Yes they do work on 240/220v I brought 4 gen 3 and they were all set to 240/220v and they all work but now I want to run 2 on 110v and all I had to do was add a extra jumper to make it 110v and that info came from dan at light o Rama and all 4 are working fine

Dan

However if it has worked for dan it makes 2 sets of resistors in the kit overkill

[spomalley]

I remember (I think Dan) posting that the two sets of resistors are overkill and fully assembled models, even ones set to 240v, use the 220ohm resistors.

[Max-Paul]

AH Ha! now we are getting to the meat of it. So, maybe in the future kits they will only have one or the other, but not both sets of resistors. I was thinking surely the resistors needed to be changed out too. But it appears that this is not the case. Thanks Lee and spomalley for your inputs. Sure did help clear things up for me. It was one of those WTH things that inquiring minds just had to know.