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2 channels doing odd things


Ron Boyd

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I have read a few posts for part of my problem, but I can't find the one I was reading, so I'm starting a new one. Sorry for the redundency.

First, on my #2 controller, channel 5 not working. The extension cord and prop have been checked and all is fine there. That's the first problem. Second problem I noticed this morning as I was leaving for work. Channel 3 is staying lit at about 50% (guesstimate), also, this same channel is staying lit when it's supposed to be off. I'm a newbie, so I'm confused. I reset the controller and PC and still had the same problem. I'm no electrician or electronics guru, but I have had a little experience in both areas, so I'm not a dummy with them either.

Any help would be appreciated from you experts. Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all.

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What version of controller? PC series, or D/K (metal enclosure, 160X model) series?

Two different controllers with single channel issues, or one controller, two channels giving you issues?

Next step would be to confirm whether you verified both problems exist if you test the channels using the Hardware Utility..especially applies to your #2 controller. Want to eliminate sequence issues, channel config issues, anything software related.

Also want to confirm these were previously working channels...and they have just failed, as opposed to a used controller with issues, or one you built and and are seeing these issues.

A reset was a good first step to take; can never hurt. Just to confirm, you did an actual board reset, and then reset the unit ID, not just a power down and power back up?

What do you have connected to channel 3? LEDs, Incandescent, or..? That one is possibly a triac issues, but lets eliminate a few things first.

On your channel 5 issues, was the channel working previously? You mentioned prop and extension cord checked, but what about dongle connections? You may have a working channel, bad or loose connection on a dongle.

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ShowTime PC CTB16PC. One controller issue, 2 channels, (3 & 5)

Have not tested using the Hardware utility but I will tonight.

Channels were working properly on since Nov 25 until Friday Dec 2. Saturday night during the show was when I discovered the problem. The controller was delivered around the first of November so it's less than 2 months old.

I did a reset on the board with the jumper, but the unit ID did not change. Not sure why. I'll do another reset tonight and make sure it changes the Unit ID back to 01 and then I'll change it back to 02.

Channel 3 has Incandescents, one string of 200 and one string of 140. I have an identical tree with the same set-up on Controller 01 that is working properly.

Channel 5 connections to board are secure, that was actually the first thing I checked after the prop and cord, although, I have not checked the signal from the dongle. That will be the first thing I check when I get back home this afternoon.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Merry Christmas,

Ron

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I always just reset the unit ID as a matter of habit/OCD/anal retentiveness (:D), , so I can't honestly tell you for sure if the ID resets back to 01or not. Its not a huge issue as long as you did a true reset.

Definitely do the two things you mentioned, and do all of your further testing via the HU.

Sounds like the dongle for 5 is fine, but it warrants a double check. You may have one or two channels that have failed..it happens.

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Ok, if it's failed, what happens next, Do I get in touch with LOR to get a replacement board? Do you have any idea how long that might take?

Thanks for your help,
Ron

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If you need LOR to repair the board, and it is definitely a board issue, the next step would be to send thme the board for repair. Thats assuming you are not comfortable doing any repair (parts replacement with soldering) yourself.

Not sure what timelines LOR is running under right now.

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If it's just a bad triac... the part soldered to the board that has the heatsink screw thru it.. then you can replace that yourself. Dan at LOR will probably ask if you are able to replace it, he'll send you a new one (or two, usually).. As Don said, repair time at LOR World Headquarters at this time of year will probably be a few weeks time.. other-other possibility is to ring up(email) one of the other 6 LOR users in Knoxville to see if they can help repair/replace the triac,

After you remove the board from the case, and pull the heatsink off that side (if ch 3 & 5, it's just that one side) you can snip the leads of the bad triacs, heat the pads, pop out the old legs (I thump the board against the desk to do that), clean the solder hole, insert the new triac and resolder.. partially reassemble (just plug in power and dongle cords to those two channels, power it up, test before total reassembly) if it's working, kudos to you! If not, then you'll have eliminated that step in testing..

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I am having the same issue with one of my channels staying constantly lit at about 50% intensity. It started happening about a week ago after the rain tripped my GFCI on that controller. Coincidentally enough, it is also my #2 controller.

I can reset the controller and that seems to fix the problem...for a few days at least...and then the problem resurfaces.

I'm running S3 and I did see that LOR just released an update to S3 that's supposed to fix some strange behavior that may be related. Any thoughts on whether or not the S3 upgrade will fix the problem? Is it a bad triac if a reset fixes the problem?

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Having the same problem. All on g3 controllers. I tried resets but the unit I'd does not change. How long do you leave the power on the unit when you move jumper? LOR is sending me two new boards.

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When I reset the board, I leave it plugged in without the jumper for at least 30 seconds...usually closer to a minute...but it doesn't change my unit ID either...is it supposed to?

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JBullard wrote:

Just FYI, in my experience, the unit ID has never changed when doing a controller reset.


So, John, Do you have a Gen 3 board?

True on Gen 2 boards the ID does not change while doing a board reset (pulling off the jumper). And one of the above gents says that it is suppose to reset the ID for his Gen 3 board. I dont have a Gen 3 board so I have not commented.
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On the Gen 3 boards, you actually have to power down, move the jumper from 4 & 5 over to 5 & 6, Power back up. LED starts flashing fast. When this happens, power back down, Move jumper back to 4 & 5 and then power back up. Then you go to the Hardware utility and reset Unit ID to what it was before. I did all of this, but I still have the same problem. LOR is sending me a replacement. Hope it gets here by the weekend. I guess with all the rush over the passed few months, there was a few that got through their test, but have problems. Mine worked flawlessly for 7 shows.

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Thanks Dariansdad,

I just have not taken the time to go to LOR site and see if I could pull up the manual and read how to do the reset. Your reply with this info was a great help that I an John can pass on to others.

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Yes, Thank you

The Gen 3 controllers are new, and the manuals are not on the LOR Website yet.

Guess I'll order a Gen 3 controller just to have the manual for reference.

(now what will I find to do with 31 controllers)

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