No Power on controller # 4 of #5

[drizzt1701]

I can not get a controller to power up. The controller is 1 year old. Used it once. Plugged it in today, no led light, blinking or solid. Replaced both fuses, no luck. I can't find any troubleshooting help. The outlets I am plugging into both have power, I have checked everything I can think of. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[-klb-]

Which model controller?

[drizzt1701]

ShowTime Pro LOR1602W Lighting Controller.

[-klb-]

Are the fuses acting like they are against springs in the fuse holders? There have been some fuse holder failures, but usually they result in the fuses not releasing from the fuse holders.

Are you comfortable taking the inner face off the controller, and checking the wiring, and some voltage, or at least resistance readings in the controller?

[drizzt1701]

I have checked the connections on the back of the panel all seemed tight but I am a little intimidated checking the voltage or resistance readings in the controller. I wouldn't know where or how to begin. Would it be difficult?

[-klb-]

Ok.

So there are a couple of tests that can be done with all power removed from the controller. Both sides unplugged, and away from power..

For each side, try reading resistance from the wide blade of the plug, to the neutral in screw terminal on the board. This should read near zero...

Then, for each side, from the narrow blade, to the hot jumper terminal on the board, you should read near zero with the power switch turned on, and open, or just like it was disconnected with the switch turned off.

[bisquit476]

Just throwing this out there, that controller has a switch on it to power it up correct? Did you move the switch back and forth a couple of times, maybe the contacts aren't making contact correctly.

[drizzt1701]

klb i will try this i might be able to handle this will try this today.

bisquit i han
ve tried that but the switch feels different than the other 4 controllers i wish there was a way to bypass switch to see if it is that

[-klb-]

If you have a separate set of inlet cords, like a pair of 14 gauge extension cords you don't mind cutting up, you can bypass/remove the inner face.

1) make careful note of where the existing wires connect. I believe they should be hot jumper for black, and neutral in for white.

2) remove these inlet wires.

3) remove the fuses from the inner face, and put them in the fuse holders on the circuit board.

4) connect your new or bypass cords directly to the board. White to neutral in, black to hot in. Do not use the hot jumper lead.

5) test.

[bisquit476]

If you have more than 1 of that same controller, with a screwdriver, remove the cover (with the unit unplugged), remove the switch (not sure how's it's held in place) from both controllers, and switch them (no pun intended), and see if that makes a difference, if the problem follows the switch, you have your answer. Take pictures if you need to, to keep everything in the correct position. Just make sure to have the power removed before working inside the controller.