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MichaelC wrote:

DAN: Is it possible to mod the 16D's to have two input power suplies (20Amp each)?

Michael

As Steven mentioned you can do this. The CTB16D can have one or two 20 amp feeds. The card is designed with two 20 amp feeds in mind. There are two fuses, one for each side of the card and a separate connectors to feed each of the fuses. There are also some additional connectors available on the card to allow you to "jump" power from one side of the card to the other if you only attach one power input.

The LOR1602W is the 30 amp Showtime unit that contains a CTB16D. The LOR1602W comes with two power cords each supplying up to 15 amps. The reason that the LOR1602W is rated at 30 amps (2 x 15) rather than 40 (2x20) is that the plug and power cord we use are only rated at 15 amps.

You can check the specs on these products at http://www.lightorama.com/support.html
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Steven Singleton Jr. wrote:

Maybe, but diff in cost is not bad when you consider the time, and materials that you would have to buy to make a comparable product. Still a great price, and MUCH cheaper than other alternatives.......



I may have made out better than most do, but when I purchased my hobbyist boards last year, I bought the plastic outdoor enclosure boxes, (designed for cable TV use) from a link posted here on PC. I picked up 12 for $60 (& that included shipping!).

I bought the 6 foot extension cords I needed (16 per controller) at Big-lots (they are 16 gauge, not 18!) for $.88 a piece (plus tax).

Total additional costs added to the hobbyist boards for the 16 channel CTB16D, to essentially make a "showtime version" was only $20.36 per 16 channel board.

I figure I saved a bundle, and I enjoyed building my units. (If I had more time I would have loved building the boards themselves, but figuring in the cost for components, Dan sells them assembled for only a little more than I would pay for just the components, (and he has them tested), so it would not be cost effective for me to actually populate the board myself..

Greg
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I also enjoy building my boxes and was initially surprised how quickly I could do it. If you are able to get good containers (I have three different types, ranging from a large 10 qt plastic "shoebox" to the MECI Primestra boxes Greg was talkign about to the infamous RiteTime boxes) at a good price then you are set. I am able to pick up cords even cheaper (6 ft at Home Depot for 31 cents a piece on Monday) and the male cords I was able to buy a bunch of 9 foot three wire 16 AWG ones from Jeff T when he found the motherlode on EBay. Like Greg, my completed boxes for this next will cost me less than $18 to build a a few hours of time. The $100 difference in price not to mention it would cost more to ship the Showtime Boxes is enough to make it a big deal for me.

3 Showtime 1602 = $869.85 or $18.21 per channel
5 Hobbyist 1600D = $899.95 plus (5 x $18 for supplies) $90 = $989.95 or $12.37 per channel.

It pays to watch for sales! Everyone makes fum of the "Jeff Stores" (Jeff T. and Me) but when we see deals we stock up for later usage!

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Dan:

Sorry to miscommunicate. I meant to ask if it is possible to get the LOR1602W in a 2x20 configuration.

Based on your answer, I would assume the only difference is the power cords and fuses you use. 20 Amp vs 15 amp is a 33.3% boost in the amount of power that can be handled and it is significant. If the only thing holding back the larger throughput is a couple of heavier duty cords, why wouldn't you just use the larger cords for the showtime units to start with?

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MichaelC wrote:

If the only thing holding back the larger throughput is a couple of heavier duty cords, why wouldn't you just use the larger cords for the showtime units to start with?
A good question. The main reason was the plug. A 120V 20amp plug has 1 vertical and 1 horizontal blade on it (plus the ground).... I did not know how many people actually had the 20 amp recepticals in their houses (a straight slot and a T slot) so I just went with the 15amp to make it universial.
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