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LOR DC Board Build


CLD Kevin

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Picture of my CMB16D board with a 360W (15A) power supply mounted inside plastic enclosure. I used 14awg wire for the main power and 5 - 18awg 4-core waterproof connectors for the channels. Each connector has 4 wires…1 for the 12VDC power and 3 channels (RGB). Total of 15 channels or 5 RGB channels. 16 channel not used and open for future.

I have 4 of these to build and this was my first.



Kevin


Attached files 262046=14524-DC Board 1.JPG

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Gary Blair wrote:

Looks very nice. What enclosure are you using?


I bought the enclosures from Foley's Christmas. I used the CG-1500 and cost $13.39 each + shipping. Inside Dimension is 10" x 10" x 3"

http://foleyfamilychristmas.com/wlc-ventures-the-store-page/demarcation-enclosures/



I also used the CG-500 for the CCR enclosure. Here is the info and pics for those:

http://forums.lightorama.com/forum89/27277.html
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One thing I ran into last year with a similar approach is heat dissipation..the PS I used ran a little warmer than expected..and with pretty minimal current draw.

Are you planning on providing some ventilation holes, or have tested and verified it will run cool enough when closed and latched?

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DonFL wrote:

One thing I ran into last year with a similar approach is heat dissipation..the PS I used ran a little warmer than expected..and with pretty minimal current draw.

Are you planning on providing some ventilation holes, or have tested and verified it will run cool enough when closed and latched?


Glad you broght this up. I didnt mention it and you cant tell from the pictures. I used 1/2" stand-off for the power supply so it doesnt block the vent holes on the bottom.

I also drilled some vent holes under the power supply through the wood board and on the back and sides of the plastic enclosure. The picture was taken before I drilled the holes. I thought about the vent holes after I ran a test. It didnt get hot...just a little warm. But it was only a 5 min test.

Kevin
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DonFL wrote:

One thing I ran into last year with a similar approach is heat dissipation..the PS I used ran a little warmer than expected..and with pretty minimal current draw.

Are you planning on providing some ventilation holes, or have tested and verified it will run cool enough when closed and latched?


Last year I took an old computer cooling fan and ran it off of a spare channel to keep the p/s cool. I just left that channel on whenever the show was playing.
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TJ Hvasta wrote:

Kevin, those Cat5 dongles you've got, are those Gregs (ponddude)?


They are just like Gregs but I got them from Ray Wu. 4-core waterproof connectors. I had him make them with a black jacket, 45cm (approx 18") long and 18awg wire (no extra charge for me). His standard for these are white jacket, 15cm (approx 6") long and 20awg. 18awg is probably over-kill, but with no extra charge...I went ahead and got it.

http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/210128048-323485322/100-pairs-4-Core-White-Waterproof-Line-15cm-long-each-male-and-female.html
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  • 3 months later...

Back from the dead!

As you seem to be the now go to guy in this field I have one question about the RBG dummy strips.

You have common anode + this is easy for me to understand. The question I have is how is this wired on the board. If I had to assume You use any positive on the 3 channel set your going to use as the dumb strips use 3 channels. Are the + side always live and the LOR DC controller only cycles the grounds. So you pull the power from any + prong on the board and the negatives are how you cycle that pixel. I may have made it harder to uderstand than easier but I think thats how they are controlled the ground is the actual on off switch not the power.

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That is correct. The + is always hot. That is really obvious if you look at the PC board traces (top side of the board) - I have a DC board sitting here on my desk at the moment.

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Power supply heating has not been a problem with an enclosure bolting directly to the side of the power supply, dissipating any heat to the metal enclosure. Being outside in the cool weather, it's a great heat sink.

Plastic wouldn't transfer nearly as much heat, but it is cheaper and more convenient.

Attached files 295902=16357-IMG_0832.JPG

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  • 8 months later...

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