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RGB Motion Lights


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Since the Dan-Burst idea was such a great success, I figured I would share something else I've been working on.

I built 5 servo controlled RGB Spot lights to shine down on my garage door. Each one is 3' apart.


The RGB spots came from http://seasonalentertainmentllc.com/
The housings are custom built.
I used std. Cat 5e networking wire.
The servos and brackets came from http://www.lynxmotion.com/
And of course the servo controller is a Servo Dog from LOR.

Here are a few screen shots of the lights, brackets and mounting, then a video!

IMG_1011.jpg

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2011-08-12152419.jpg

Sorry, can't seem to get the Embed Video to work but here is a small snip-it from one of my songs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM-_LRIiw24&feature=player_detailpage

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Very cool..like the idea of using cat-5, so easy plug and play on the servo/spot end.

Curious where you stashed the DC board, servo-dog, and power-supply....

Definitely would be a 2012 project, but I'm already thinking of some possibilities for the front of my house...

I like the Dan-spot even better than the Dan-burst..:)

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Wow...Dan that is fantastic!! Shoot me an email if you can. I would like to use the video on my site and just need your permission.

What a fantastic looking spotlight!

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John Slade wrote:

NO FREAKIN WAY!!! Those are SOOOO cool!! GREAT JOB!!
Sure hope there is a how-to on these babys!:P:):D
Gonna need a name for these too - "The Dan-Spot"? LOL

how about the

DAN-O-MITE Lite!!!!

any chance you could link us servo-impaired guys DIRECTLY to the servo parts instead of just the home page:

http://www.lynxmotion.com/
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Thanks again guys! Glad you like them. Not sure what name to give these, although I like, DAN-O-MITE Lite!!!!

As for the parts I used, I used some standard size servos and mounting hardware. I'll list the links below.
Keep in mind you can usually get standard servos at any hobby town hobby store or any place that sells remote controlled cars/trucks that you build yourself. (Not the Tyco RC stuff they sell at wallyworld mind you.)

Here are the servos I bought. You can get them individually or in a 6 pack. Also, you don't necessarily need these particular servos, Any standard servo would work as they don't require much torque to move that little light. (I actually had these from a previous computer project that I disassembled, so the only parts I had to buy was the mounting hardware).

Single: http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-719-hs-485hb-83-oz-in-standard-servo.aspx

6 Pack: http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-507-6x-hs-485hb-with-6-free-metal-servo-horns.aspx

Another place I've purchased from before is http://servocity.com/html/servos___accessories.html
They have some cool stuff there too.



As for the mounting hardware, I bought this kit; (looks like they are out of stock. but you can buy the parts individually)
http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-288-lynx-b-pan-and-tilt-kit-black-anodized-no-servos.aspx

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Question for you Dan. The servo suppliers site doesn't mention if they go back to zero position when you stop or if they stay in place. I can see posibilities if they return to a zero position.



Dan C wrote:

Thanks again guys! Glad you like them. Not sure what name to give these, although I like, DAN-O-MITE Lite!!!!

As for the parts I used, I used some standard size servos and mounting hardware. I'll list the links below.
Keep in mind you can usually get standard servos at any hobby town hobby store or any place that sells remote controlled cars/trucks that you build yourself. (Not the Tyco RC stuff they sell at wallyworld mind you.)

Here are the servos I bought. You can get them individually or in a 6 pack. Also, you don't necessarily need these particular servos, Any standard servo would work as they don't require much torque to move that little light. (I actually had these from a previous computer project that I disassembled, so the only parts I had to buy was the mounting hardware).

Single: http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-719-hs-485hb-83-oz-in-standard-servo.aspx

6 Pack: http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-507-6x-hs-485hb-with-6-free-metal-servo-horns.aspx

Another place I've purchased from before is http://servocity.com/html/servos___accessories.html
They have some cool stuff there too.



As for the mounting hardware, I bought this kit; (looks like they are out of stock. but you can buy the parts individually)
http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-288-lynx-b-pan-and-tilt-kit-black-anodized-no-servos.aspx
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Thanks Jeff,

Would love to see the lights swing back and fourth but return to the center, or 50% when done doing the swing sequence. even if the lights are still on.



Jeff Millard wrote:

crackchecker wrote:
Question for you Dan. The servo suppliers site doesn't mention if they go back to zero position when you stop or if they stay in place. I can see posibilities if they return to a zero position.


The final resting position of analog servos is based on how you sequence them, and if you choose to use the "All Off" command at the end of a sequence. If you don't use the All Off command, the servo will rest in a position based on the last percentage it recieves at the end of a sequence. Otherwise, it follows the percentage existing in it's assigned channel. If that channel is at 0% the servo will be at the full counter clockwise. if it's at 50% it will be at it's mid point. 100% will be full clockwise. If the All Off is selected in the show plaer and sequencer, the servo will always drive to full counter clockwise at the end of a sequence.

Jeff
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Thanks for the explination Jeff. If you want the lights to return to 50% when done swinging, simply change the percentage to 50% when you want it to change.

On that note. When you sequence the servo dog. Almost every cell needs to have something in it. I start by setting all the channels to 50% intensity for the entire sequence. Then when I want a servo to move to a particular position, (lets say full left). then I simply change those cells to 100% on. then full right would be 0% or off. if I want the servo to only move half way left or right I set it at 25% or 75%. If I want a slower transition. I do a fade between two intensity values. Hope that makes sense.

Also something to note. Servo speeds are based on a couple things. Some servos are rated to travel faster from lock to lock, others are rated slower but have more torque.

For my servos here are the specs. (HS-485HB)
Range = 180°
Voltage = 4.8 - 6.0vdc
Torque = 83 oz.-in.
Weight = 1.59 oz.
Speed = 0.22s, 0.18s / 60 degrees

What this means is for every 60 deg or movement it takes .22 seconds and .18 seconds at 4.8 volts or 6 volts respectivly.
So if you want to go a full 180 deg. Full left to full right it takes .54 seconds at 6 volts. or .66 seconds at 4.8 volts. Please take that into account when you sequence. you can't have a servo move full left/right every tenth of a second. If I want a light to start out at full left before the light turns on, I set the intensity at least .25 seconds before the light turns on so that the servo has time to move to its proper position. Understand?

You would be best to get a servo that has a fast speed since you don't really need a lot of torque to move these little lights. It depends on your situation though. Also, you can increase that speeed and torque by upping the voltage, however most servos run at 4.8, 6 or even 7.5 volts. I have personally never run them more than 6.5 volts. Again you would need to see what the servo was rated for.

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Dan,
your project really rocks.

Also, thank you for your details on programming the servos.

I am working some animation with servos and the details on sequencing the channel at 50%, and the timings really helps me to get started on my project.

Thanks!

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