Jump to content

ch 1 - 9 not working


jpbaily1
 Share

Recommended Posts

JP,

First are you sure it is 1-9 and not 1-8 not working? Second, what controller are you using and was this a kit that you put together? Did these channels ever work before or is this a new controller and first time hooking up and powering up?

If this is a new controller, do you have either two power cords feeding power to the controller, or a jumper getting power over to this bank of outputs?

Need some details in order to best advise you.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your controller is shutting down in protest of the cold weather headed our way...:D

I'm reading this going on the assumption your display was up and running, based on it being 12-25, and you mention checking suspected light strings....so going on the assumption the suspect board was 100% functional, and you have not exceeded any load limits on a per bank or per channel basis.

Like Max-Paul, I'm wondering if you are seeing issues with 1-8, not 1-9.

Would start looking at the basics and diving deeper:

1. double-check power to both sides of the board (especially if you have two cords...power for 9-16 runs the logic, so what you are seeing as far as the status LED suggests that side of the board is fine).

2. have you checked the fuses with an ohm-meter or continuity tester, or just replaced and saw no change? Thinking here is if you do have a dead short on the 1-8 side, either on board, or one of your strings, the fuse is blowing instantly.

3. can you control lights on the dead channels from the hardware utility?

4. assuming you don't have a dead short, and the fuses are not popping instantly, have you tried a reset? I know you reloaded firmware, and would assume a reset is done with that reload, but can't say for sure. I think you can be reasonably sure you don't have a firmware issue.

If you haven't already, as you troubleshoot, take all loads off of the dead channels, and test with a known good string of lights.

and yes, definitely, fill in the blanks as far as type of controller, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DonFL wrote:

I think your controller is shutting down in protest of the cold weather headed our way...:D

I'm reading this going on the assumption your display was up and running, based on it being 12-25, and you mention checking suspected light strings....so going on the assumption the suspect board was 100% functional, and you have not exceeded any load limits on a per bank or per channel basis.
Actually, this was the first time that I had fired up this board. I did mean 1-8 not 9. I'll check the power again as I am running two ac cords to my 16ch V7 blue board which was purchased new & assembled from LOR. Fuses I swapped from another working controller & then swapped back. The fuse still worked on the original controller when swapped back

Like Max-Paul, I'm wondering if you are seeing issues with 1-8, not 1-9.

Would start looking at the basics and diving deeper:

1. double-check power to both sides of the board (especially if you have two cords...power for 9-16 runs the logic, so what you are seeing as far as the status LED suggests that side of the board is fine).

2. have you checked the fuses with an ohm-meter or continuity tester, or just replaced and saw no change? Thinking here is if you do have a dead short on the 1-8 side, either on board, or one of your strings, the fuse is blowing instantly.

3. can you control lights on the dead channels from the hardware utility? [shadow=red]No[/shadow]

4. assuming you don't have a dead short, and the fuses are not popping instantly, have you tried a reset? I know you reloaded firmware, and would assume a reset is done with that reload, but can't say for sure. I think you can be reasonably sure you don't have a firmware issue.

If you haven't already, as you troubleshoot, take all loads off of the dead channels, and test with a known good string of lights. [shadow=red]No diffrence.[/shadow]

and yes, definitely, fill in the blanks as far as type of controller, etc.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so, board was purchased assembled, but you never tested it before putting it in the display?

Going on the assumption that you weren't shipped a DOA board from LOR, it just sounds like you don't have power on the 1-8 side of the board.

Definitely review your connections against the user manual, and 100% verify the outlet you have that side connected to is live.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I changed the male plug on the box & guess what?

Yep, works fine now.

Being the cheap bastard that I am I used the male plug that I cut off of on of my old light strands.

Well that had a fuse in it, & the fuse was bad. :)



Next time I'll trouble shoot all options before bothering you guys with this stuff.



Thanks to all & to all a good night.



I now have all of my red twink lights on my mini mega tree!!!!! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very cool....good to hear you got it working. I would always bet against a DOA board from Dan and gang.

Sometimes posting it here is exactly what you need to do...you can be "too close" to a problem and you need the "so have you checked the...?" type of suggestion. And a lot of us techie types love trying to troubleshoot this way..(right Max?..:))...

Not sure if you used male plug and cord from an old light set, but definitely recommend against both..use something in the 16 gauge range..you can get suitable replacement line cords at HD or Lowes, or just get them from LOR. Ultimately, that line cord has to carry the load of at least half the channels (1-8, or 9-16) or all of them on that controller, depending on how you have it wired.

I'm west of you in Lake County..what part of Orlando are you in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JP, glad you found the problem. Sometimes one must use a sounding board to be able to talk it out. Dont know how many times I figured something out by just looking at my wife and talking it through. Though bless her soul she does not understand a word, but still maintains an expression of listening. P.S. last year I was a cheap bastard and used a non-polarized plug and had my hot from outlet going to the neutral of the controller board.

Don, you sir are so right. Sometimes I get there first and other times you and a few others beat me to it. Sometimes the OP says something that I miss and you pick up on and other times I beat you to the punch.

But if done right, we all learn something or sharpen our trouble shooting skills.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DonFL wrote:

Very cool....good to hear you got it working. I would always bet against a DOA board from Dan and gang.

Sometimes posting it here is exactly what you need to do...you can be "too close" to a problem and you need the "so have you checked the...?" type of suggestion. And a lot of us techie types love trying to troubleshoot this way..(right Max?..:))...

Not sure if you used male plug and cord from an old light set, but definitely recommend against both..use something in the 16 gauge range..you can get suitable replacement line cords at HD or Lowes, or just get them from LOR. Ultimately, that line cord has to carry the load of at least half the channels (1-8, or 9-16) or all of them on that controller, depending on how you have it wired.

I'm west of you in Lake County..what part of Orlando are you in?
Actually I am just South of Kissimmee in Davenport.
I only used about 2" of lead from the male plug as the original power (that failed).
I am sitting here looking at my spool of SPII and will correct this tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on your load, if you are all LEDs, you're ok with SPT 16 or 18 ga., but line cords are something where it cannot hurt to go big...and have plenty of room from a current capacity standpoint.

Think about, if for a few moments you are drawing one amp per channel...thats equivalent to 300 minis per channel, thats 16 amps total...if you are using one line cord, thats 16A total, if you have it split, thats, of course, 8. You can see why that plug fuse blew...

If you are all LEDs, then yea, I'd say go SPT 16 or 18, and you're likely fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...