Jump to content

Finally got my box problem sorted out.


Guest guest
 Share

Recommended Posts

So I know this is like the 8th topic I have started on new boxes, but I didn't like the other ones. Anyways, I finally got some new and very nice ones:

lorbox1.gif

lorbox2.gif

lorbox3.gif

lorbox4.gif

lorbox5.gif

lorbox6.gif

lorbox7.gif

lorbox8.gif

lorbox9.gif

lorbox10.gif

This is what is being used for my display. They are made from 1/4 thick PVC and are very sturdy. They are also approved for outdoor use in wet places. The cost me 71$ each! They were a good deal in my opinion compared to the 100$ ones and they also have a gasket with a cover that is held in place by 8 screws! I will be using the proper fittings for the boxes as in the pics above. They are the Liqui-tight fittings and I have about 150 of them. Every cord coming out of the boxes will have its own connector.

The only downside to the boxes is they have no standoffs to mount in them with... Not sure what I will do but I will find something.

What do you think?

Zac

P.S. These will be mounted on homemade wood stands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those are awesome, Zac.. very nice and clean looking.. great job!

Edit: I just have a quick question.. how do you post more than 1 pic in a post?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For your stand offs you could tap a hole and use a 10/24 nut coupling for the stand offs, the stand offs attached through the four holes with 1/2" 10/24 screws with a dab of silicone (Marine goop) on the bolt to weather seal the holes.

Very nice enclosures!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might do that Rick although, if any holes are put through the box then it becomes uncertified and since they already are certified I might as well try to keep them that way.

I have some Ideas though. Might use the holes for the cover to attach the controller with a bracket down to the very bottom of the enclosure.

Zac

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you put anything between the cover and the box then it wont seal right and would be worse than drilling holes through the backside. Maybe you could use strips of aluminum about 3/4" wide by 1/4" thick that would wedge in the box thightly then drill and tap holes for the standoffs. You could also epoxy the aluminum to the back of the box. I have one of these boxes that I just use to distribute power to my shed and a couple of weather prof outlets, inside it is a terminal strip that I epoxyed and screwed (1/4 long wood screws) to the box. It's been there for 3 years and is still holding strong.

Thats my best idea without penetrating the outside of the box.

p.s. What size boxes are those?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan, I was worried about that also. I thought of epoxy-ing something like a bolt or 'coupler' to the back of the box but didnt think of drilling and staping some metal strips with holes tapped in them. GREAT idea. I will get some aluminum and try to wedge it in there with some tapped holes. Yay, I get to use my tap.

Thanks,

Zac

P.S. 12 x 12 x 4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zac there is some good epoxy's outhere If you epoxied the head of four bolts whatever size you want to use it will work . As Dan said it will last a long time should be no problem for the epoxy to stick and then you can make your own standoffs to raise the board from the bottom.Have you checked with your supplier if they provide boxes with backplates. We use similar boxes at work they are called scepters

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats what this box is Denis. I am thinking about welding a bolt to a peice of flat bar so I have a good sturdy area to glue down.

Zac

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I forgot. Sand or scuff the PVC before epoxing to it or the epoxy may not grip. PVC is naturaly resistant to glues and chemicals that are not made for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I was going to. I was also thinking of using something PVC and gluing it with PVC glue? Might work better.

Maybe some sort of small square block of PVC and I could drill a hole through and put a blot all the way through with the head inset so It would be fluch then gluing the block down with the head of the bolt against the bottom of the box.

Zac

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zac,

If you are going to mount those liquid-tite connectors in the boxes, you could make a metal bracket with a right-angle with holes large enough that you attach it to the threaded portion of the liquid-tite connectors that protrude into the box with conduit nuts.
Basically use your connectors to mount your bracket to.

By the way.. that same box is around 20 bucks at Menard's here in the States.
They carry that size and one just a bit smaller.. Just FYI

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zac,

I have some like those that hold my 8 channel boards, only smaller. All I did is take 1/4" wood strips and epoxied them to the box. Then I just screwed the board to the wood strips. It's simple, it holds and it works! Make sure you rough up the plastic box where you are going to epoxy them so they have something to hold on to.:]

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$71 a box?? Geez. At that point, isn't it just cheaper to buy a showtime controller (or at least close enough to not justify your labor?

-Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you live in the US that's true....If you live across the border as we do, we have to deal with expensive shipping, nasty brokerage and Customs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like the Lindsays said... Plus, I get enjoyment from making my own ;)

Btw, the connectors used for the LOR boxes are not CSA or UL. They only are if you put one cord per connector unless its a different type of connector. But that also doesnt matter for Dan because the boxes are not certified.

I got all of the stuff including the connectors from Torbram Electric. The fittings were 82 cents each and the nuts for them were 18 cents meaning $1.00 each. I got 140 of them 20 per box.

Zac

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zac_Cutt wrote:

Like the Lindsays said... Plus, I get enjoyment from making my own ;)

Btw, the connectors used for the LOR boxes are not CSA or UL. They only are if you put one cord per connector unless its a different type of connector. But that also doesnt matter for Dan because the boxes are not certified.

I got all of the stuff including the connectors from Torbram Electric. The fittings were 82 cents each and the nuts for them were 18 cents meaning $1.00 each. I got 140 of them 20 per box.


Well they'll turn out great I'm sure.

Just in case any newbies are lurking in this thread -- don't be too alarmed at the price. I spent less than $15 on my 8-channel boxes, not including the LOR boards. Zac's, of course, are nicer.

-Tim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought. There is such a thing as press in captive stand offs. These are pressed into a hole that is slightly smaller than a knurled portion of the stand off. These are often used for mounting hardware on PCB's, so they typically only require a hole about 0.060" deep - much less than the 0.250" thick PVC enclosure. Try McMaster Carr and search part number 92985A310. These are 1/4"tall 6-32 stand offs with the 0.060" deep insert that will mount in the PVC.....just not all the way through. A touch of epoxy wouldn't hurt, but if the mounting hole is sized properly the knurled portion of the insert has pretty gppd holdong power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...