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Removing and bypassing the protective plate in front of the board


mhammond1

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Friends,

Last year I had 3 boxes die because the fuses blew inside the fuse holder. I shipped the entire box back to LOR and they fixed them, no questions asked. LOR is great.

I'm checking every box I own for this year and replacing the fuses and so far, two boxes have the fuses stuck inside the holders again. (not the same ones they fixed) Rather than send them back to LOR, does anyone think it's a problem to take the black wires from the leads, cut them off the ON/OFF switch and put then into the HOT JUMPER directly on the board, and put new fuses onto the fuse holders that are directly on the boards?

I love the safety plate and the on-off switch, but I can't afford to be without boxes again this season.

Thoughts?

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What was the cause of the fuse getting stuck? I have 10- 1602 controllers, and thats never happened to me. are they getting wet, or heating up?

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I'm not sure why they get stuck, but when this happened last year, Dan mentioned there could be a pressure problem causing a contact issue and heating which "fuses" the fuse to the bottom of the fuse holder. He took care of all three of my boxes, much appreciated.

I've tested three more boxes this year and two both have the fuses stuck inside again. The boxes are outside during the december time frame and are subject to the elements, but I only have these problems on the boxes with the protective plate. The older style boxes I have with fuse holder right on the board doesn't have this problem. Also, all my boxes have the gray topped fuse holder, not the black screw on.

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You only run the power cords to the hot jumper leads if you have already gone through the fuse holders. If you are using the on board fuse holders, there is a hot in, or some such, that passes through the on board fuse holder. The hot jumper is past the fuse holders.

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got it. Ok, I can see from this picture that I want the 120 VAC on each side of the NEU JUMPER and HOT JUMPER.

That's what you were saying right?




Attached files 219549=12184-LOR.bmp

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Input leads should go to the positions with the input 120V labels, white to neutral, black to hot. I think we are saying exactly the same thing. One way to confirm that it is correct is to hook it up without fuses, make sure nothing works if plugged in.. Unplug the controller (or the next step will hurt!!!) install the fuses, and plug it in, and confirm that it now works.

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we are... thanks for the assistance. like I said, I like the plate (as just tonight my 3 year old wanted to touch the "blinking red light", scared the cr@p out of me) but I don't want the fuse holder problem again this year...

(and he "wanted" to touch it, he didn't actually touch it)

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I work with the PC series a lot more than the 1602's, but on the PC series, as long as the factory style insulated leads are on all the quick connects, and if you have the clear vinyl covers on the fuse holders, it is pretty tough to come into contact with 120V power.

My recollection is that the 1602 is not quite as safe with the inner face removed. I don't think they come with the fuse covers, and the leads of the triacs with 120 V are more exposed. At least there are no harmful voltages present at the LED...

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If I remember correctly Dan said something a couple years ago about fuse holders that were not releasing the fuses and they were breaking. They were changing to different holder (or manufacturer or something) to fix the issue. Hopefully the repaired units have a different fuse holder.

I've purchased 1602s several times since 2007 and haven't had an issue. I changed out the fuses twice in the last two years with no issue (once to decrease the fuse rating and again to change back to 15A when I went to a single input cord). So my guess is that the holders with a problem weren't around for long.

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