Rick Hughes Posted September 4, 2010 Posted September 4, 2010 All of my display elements are made from C7 sockets on SPT1 stringer which I buy in bulk. Usually I leave a 36" end and strip off the sockets for my extension cord. Which leaves the little teeth holes in the insulation. I'm thinking of using heat shrink on these areas to ensure they are waterproof.I was bewildered when looking at mouser.com for heat shrink - there are thousands of possibilities. Does anyone have a recommended size to order for SPT1? (I'm looking for clear if that matters.)Sheesh ... Central Florida in mid-summer, the last thing I need to be thinking about is more HEAT!Thanks ...
gizmomkr Posted September 4, 2010 Posted September 4, 2010 Most heat shrink tends to reduce by 50%. It depends if you want to cover individual wires of the STP, or the pair as a whole. Also depends on your wire size, but somewhere around 3mm should do.If you are still worried about size, run to home depot - get the tiny pack and see what fits, then order a nice long piece from the web.Different people have different reasons for selecting the various material types - for your application, a general use PVC should work fine.Im a very visual person, and am fortunate to live in a big city with a big-box store that stocks a lot of it. I keep about 5 feet of assorted sizes on hand.
Max-Paul Posted September 4, 2010 Posted September 4, 2010 Something to consider, with just standard heat shrink, will you get a water proof tight fitting? Or will moisture wick up between the heat shrink and the wire's jacket? Could this wick up to the point that a liquid bridge is formed and starts a little current flow that heats things up to the point of maybe a fire? Know of an apartment building that almost burnt down to the ground due to a moisture bridge. Seems that when they had some external remodeling done. A nail was driven in nicked a wire. head part was in some metal flashing. For some reason it did not start anything for weeks. Then we had a good rain and right after the rain (the next day). A fire broke out of the attic. Fire chief reported that it started cause of the nail.Now maybe I am anal, but I would use a heat shrink that has the resin / hot glue inside the tube. Or paint it with that liquid electric tape stuff. Either product would if installed properly, insure that no mositure could wick up and produce a bridge between the two holes.YMMV
Denny Posted September 4, 2010 Posted September 4, 2010 I also use the liquid electrical tape. If I do use heat shrink, I still coat it with the liquid tape.
rmturner54 Posted September 4, 2010 Posted September 4, 2010 Me too, I use the heat shrink with the resin inside or you can butt splice and use the liquid tape. Just remember, waterproofing is important whatever route you takeRichard
jeffl Posted September 4, 2010 Posted September 4, 2010 I buy heat shrink tubing by the 100' foot roll. I use 1/8 around each wire and 1/4 around both. I also ordered 1/2 for covering rope light. If you're buying online you may as well take advantage of shipping costs. I know 100' sound like a lot but it will get used up over time.1/8http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16337+HS1/4http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16338+HS
Rick Hughes Posted September 5, 2010 Author Posted September 5, 2010 Thanks for the good information and recommendations.I use Liquid Electrical Tape also, but would like the reinforcement of the heat shrink. Besides, I need a reason to use the Heat Gun I purchased when it was on sale last year :-)
Dr. Jones Posted September 5, 2010 Posted September 5, 2010 I would recommend -heatshrink.com CFD-W heavy wall glue lined 3to1 shrink factori use this in a submersible environment
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