Installation Suggestions

[RaceMedic]

I am hoping some of the experienced folks can give me some suggestions.

I am building a track system for around my windows and on the peaks of my house. The track will have 2 strings of C9 sockets built into a 2" x 2" plastic downspout to keep the weight light. I had experimented with building this a few months ago and it worked out GREAT ... or at least I think it did.

Here is a picture ... http://www.pbase.com/dgeall/image/123550654

Any suggestions on how to mount them ?!

1. On the peaks of the house .. which you can partially see here in the top left corner ... http://www.pbase.com/dgeall/image/123550643 .. is metal siding, I assume over wood so I was thinking I can screw through the track or put a strap around them.

2. The windows I am more concerned with as far as screwing into the metal frame of the window.

ANY help, which I know I will receive here, is GREATLY appreciated !

Thank-you in advance !

Dave

[Guest wbottomley]

I bet you could use some mighty putty, lol.

I would find a way to wedge them in so they would have a difficult time of coming out.

[lightzilla]

I am so thankful that setting up most of the lights on my house only takes 1.5 hours. I can have a few thousand lights up in no time thanks to the vinyl J-channel.

Now my LED retro fit C7 lights took a good hour to attach to the peak and sides of the house last year.

Things are changing for the peak this time around.

In your case could you not use 3 hooks (per section of track) that screw into the medal frame of the peak? Then the "track system" could have 3 holes in it that would go over the hooks. People here in Edmonton do that. The tracks goes up and down in no time.

So if you need 12 hooks then screw 12 hooks into the medal. Then drill 3 holes per section of track.

As far as your window frame goes (try self adhesive Velcro) ..........add say 2 or 3 strips of Velcro per section of track.

Put 3 2x2 wooden strips about 5 inches long that fit inside your plastic downspout with 5 inch strips of Velcro.

That is as far as my thinking goes at the moment.

[Donny M. Carter]

lightzilla wrote:

I am so thankful that setting up most of the lights on my house only takes 1.5 hours. I can have a few thousand lights up in no time thanks to the vinyl J-channel.

how about some pics of your j-channel setup!

[RaceMedic]

lightzilla wrote:

As far as your window frame goes (try self adhesive Velcro) ..........add say 2 or 3 strips of Velcro per section of track.

I was thinking of Velcro ... wondering if that would hold ... was going to do a test and see if it held alright.

Thank-you for the suggestions so far !

Dave

[lightzilla]

RaceMedic wrote:

lightzilla wrote:

As far as your window frame goes (try self adhesive Velcro) ..........add say 2 or 3 strips of Velcro per section of track.

I was thinking of Velcro ... wondering if that would hold ... was going to do a test and see if it held alright.

Thank-you for the suggestions so far !

Dave

Since you are using 2" plastic downspout Try the 2 inch strip Velcro, that should give better grip.

[Guest Don Gillespie]

Raemedic wrote

2. The windows I am more concerned with as far as screwing into the metal frame of the window.

can you send a picture of the window If the windows are metal clad you can screw right into the metal with out damaging the window if you are worried about holes after you take down the lights some painted 12 inch screws hide all, then you can remove the painted screws when its time to rehang next christmas works like a charm no one can see the screws because it matches your window

[George Simmons]

The issue you might have with the velcro, depending on how you're attaching it, is the adhesive during your winter temps. I'm down here in a much more temperate location (only goes to -30) and I've had velcro fail when the frozen adhesive lost its grip.

[Guest wbottomley]

George Simmons wrote:

I've had velcro fail when the frozen adhesive lost its grip.

Heck with the velcro!

I would lose my grip at -30, lmao.

[lightzilla]

George Simmons wrote:

The issue you might have with the velcro, depending on how you're attaching it, is the adhesive during your winter temps. I'm down here in a much more temperate location (only goes to -30) and I've had velcro fail when the frozen adhesive lost its grip.

I thought about that too, but he is closer to Toronto and gets a bit more milder their (in winter) than where I live.

However, I wonder if there is cold weather contact cement that could be attached to the Velcro?

[Guest guest]

lightzilla wrote:

George Simmons wrote:

The issue you might have with the velcro, depending on how you're attaching it, is the adhesive during your winter temps. I'm down here in a much more temperate location (only goes to -30) and I've had velcro fail when the frozen adhesive lost its grip.

I thought about that too, but he is closer to Toronto and gets a bit more milder their (in winter) than where I live.

However, I wonder if there is cold weather contact cement that could be attached to the Velcro?

If you don't mind the velcro staying somewhat "permanently" attached to your house, Super Glue I do believe would do the job. Even though I'm in Florida where it usually doesn't get into the negatives, the heat here does just as bad, makes things give way and fall off. And I've found Krazy Glue or Super Glue to hold very well under my heated and sometimes very wet climate.

BTW: If you don't want to leave the velcro, just buy a bottle of Acetone (fingernail polish remover) and keep dabbing it around the velcro until you can get it removed. But you will probably have to "repaint" the area since the acetone will also remove paint!

So this way it's only semi-permanent, but should hold for the Holiday season.

Good Luck!

[RaceMedic]

Sorry ... been away for 5 days at a race weekend ... will post a photo of the window.

Thank-you for all the suggestions !

Dave

[Guest Don Gillespie]

the reason I want to see the window is because once I see it I can then tell you if its ok to screw into the frame as window and doors are my specialty and have been for thirty years

[RaceMedic]

Sorry for the delay ..... VERY busy couple of weeks.

I will try and attach 3 pictures of the windows I am referring to.

Thanks again !

Dave


Attached files

[RaceMedic]

Sorry .... Don't know how to attach all 3 to 1 posting.

Dave


Attached files

[RaceMedic]

3rd

Attached files

[Guest Don Gillespie]

Dave the windows you are showing me look like wood metal clad windows they do not look like pvc windows this is a good thing, where you do not want to put screws into is the sash style window those are the ones that open you can however put screws around the brickmold that is the outside perimeter of the window and it is looking as though yours have been cladded in a brown metal, if you want to add screws to the inside that is called the mull where the two windows are joined together you can put screws into that also this will give you a good look around your windows remember when you remove the screws to add painted ones in their place so there are no holes in the frame of the window if you have any other questions let me know I will post a photo soon to show you what I mean my camera is at the shop I will try to get a photo by the weekend

[Guest Don Gillespie]

OK here is the photo of a casement window as you can see you never want to put screws into the frame of the window where the glass is go to the outside where the brickmold is the notes will show you where if you have any questions I willbe watching this post good luck to everone

Attached files

[motherboarddude]

This stuff requires no screws and seems to work well.

http://www.creativedecoratinginc.com/clips-attachments/window-wonder.html

Neil

[Guest Don Gillespie]

Neil wrote

This stuff requires no screws and seems to work well.

http://www.creativedecoratinginc.com/clips-attachments/window-wonder.html

Neil these look good but how do they attach to the window I can't seem to see this on the web page, do you use these?