Guest guest Posted September 15, 2006 Posted September 15, 2006 This Weatherproof box looks like it may work for some of the hobby boards, What do you think ?
Guest guest Posted September 15, 2006 Posted September 15, 2006 It looks like the 8 channel cards would fit.
Guest guest Posted September 15, 2006 Posted September 15, 2006 FYI here is the manufacture web site> ]http://www.primex.ca/home.htm] Primex
Guest guest Posted September 15, 2006 Posted September 15, 2006 I bought 3 of those boxes for my LORs to go into.They are due in next week I will let you know if they work.Sorry DAN I couldn't wanit for your boxes any longer LOL
Guest guest Posted September 15, 2006 Posted September 15, 2006 I'm going to assume you already know this. But if you are using 16 chan cards they will have to go in their sideways and then you have(7 / 10) - (5 / 8) = 0.075of space to route all 18 cords down... I wish you the best of luck if using 16 chans..Please disregard if you are using CTB08/D
Guest guest Posted September 18, 2006 Posted September 18, 2006 Donald was right.For some odd reason I thought they would fit with the 16 channnel but they didn't.I will have to use them for the 2 Olsen boards I bought off of computer Christmas in the group buy.
Guest guest Posted September 20, 2006 Posted September 20, 2006 What if I did a mod like thisWould it work Like this ?
Guest guest Posted September 20, 2006 Posted September 20, 2006 You beat me to it. I was just going to post a link to that thread which is here:http://planetchristmas.mywowbb.com/view_topic.php?id=7130&forum_id=61&jump_to=69407So yes, it's the same box. I'm trying to figure out where the extra space came from. It looks like about an inch of clearance after the heatsinks, but according to the LOR and ALL ELECTRONICS measurements, there should be only 0.075 inches left. I'm guess the box is actually wider than 7.7 inches as opposed to LOR being smaller than 7.6.
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 According to the LOR web site data sheet, the ctb16d W/heat sinks the height measurement is wrong ,they call out 7 5/8 and it's closer to 6 5/8 , I'm not sure what the real measurements of the box are at this time ,but I will take some measurements when I get home tonight. and also post some more pics of how I did the mod. I have 3 of these boxes, I ordered 3 more in preparation for next year. stay tune for updates.
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 RayNMesa wrote: According to the LOR web site data sheet, the ctb16d W/heat sinks the height measurement is wrong ,they call out 7 5/8 and it's closer to 6 5/8 , I'm not sure what the real measurements of the box are at this time ,but I will take some measurements when I get home tonight. and also post some more pics of how I did the mod. I have 3 of these boxes, I ordered 3 more in preparation for next year. stay tune for updates.Hmmm looks like we have a typo in the data sheet. It should read 6 5/8
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 RayNMesa wrote: What if I did a mod like this[pictures removed]Would it work Like this ?If you put this outdoors, it is going to be difficult to keep water from entering the box. Laying flat may work but I would be very careful.... Even laying flat, water hitting directly on the wires at the connectors is going to head for the board. Perhaps if the box is lifted a bit on the hinge end you would be safe but that depends on how the seal works at the hinges.
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 I usually cover my boxes with a black trash bag. I do this no matter if they're laying down or staked in the ground (I use 1/2" EMT conduit to do this). Haven't had a problem yet - my original boxes were quite tight and didn't seal well.
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 cstom2002 wrote: I usually cover my boxes with a black trash bag. I do this no matter if they're laying down or staked in the ground (I use 1/2" EMT conduit to do this). Haven't had a problem yet - my original boxes were quite tight and didn't seal well.As suggested above, if you keep your boxes covered you are going to have good success. If you use a plastic bag, make sure that it is open on the bottom so as to keep good air flow while shedding water. Air tight is not good (unless perfect and that is hard to accomplish).
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 Did you use stanoffs for mounting the board or is the board sitting directly plastic of the box?Ed
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 Ed wrote: Did you use stanoffs for mounting the board or is the board sitting directly plastic of the box?EdI used a washer nut and washer build up on the back of the board and then fastened the whole assembly to the box useing a flat washer, lock washer and nut.The washer and nut build up gave me about 5/16" clearance between the back of the heat sink and the box and about 1/2" or so clearance when the cover is closed.
Guest guest Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 Thanks for the information. I just ordered 3 of the enclosers. Seems very functional and a great (Yes, Dan I will keep your comments in mind) price. Also shipping is only $7.00 per order...that's a deal!Ed
Guest guest Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 Here are more pics off the install, This page is still under construction so excuse the mess. The box dimentions are very close to what is stated on there web site.Hope this helpshttp://thewestpole.com/photos.htm
Guest guest Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 RayNice l clean layout, make us anal rententive people very proud.Question, why did you run the power cable to the side (assuming hinge at top) and not out the bottom? Next dumb question, is there not a place for the ground to be conntected too---like heat sink screw, etc?
Guest guest Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 Ed wrote: RayNice l clean layout, make us anal rententive people very proud.Question, why did you run the power cable to the side (assuming hinge at top) and not out the bottom? Next dumb question, is there not a place for the ground to be conntected too---like heat sink screw, etc?That's a good question, I think because the grommet was already there and I didn't feel like drilling another hole :laughing: , the hinge will be at the top and two of the boxes will be mounted to a piece of 3/4" ply that will be attached to the side of the house, it will be under the overhang (eve) of the house, and just to be on the safe side I was going to put a strip of duck tape along the hinged side, that should last for at least 40 days and 40 nights :shock: we only had one day of rain last year, and I don't think it reached the ground, they call that " virga" or something like that. I,m thinking that I will go ahead and put a lug on the ground wire and attach it to one of the mounting screws on the heat sink, might as well use it since its there. I will try to provide more details and more pics to the website this weekend.
Guest guest Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 Another idea for a box.This year I splurged on 12 of the 8 channel Triac boards with heatsinks in the spring sale. I got 4 of them right away and took the Sept delivery option for the rest. After searching around for a while I found a great solution! I went to a surplus store and bought old military shell boxes. Their a heavy gauge steel and have a swing open top that has a gasket on it with a latch. The top also makes it easy when your connecting your Cat 5 cables without having to unscrew the enclosure. The handles on the top make it easy to carry the boxes, hang them up, and also work well to wrap the cords thru for storage. The boxes were about $8.00 per piece and at Axeman surplus where I got mine, you get 13 for the price of 12. I made a template of the drill pattern for the boards and drilled 4 holes thru the bottom. I then used 2" number 8 machine screws to act as stand-offs to keep the boards off the bottom. I bought white 6' extension cords on sale at the local Menards for $.69 per piece and cut the male ends off in different lengths to more easily identify the different circuits. Ie circuit one 14", Circuit two 16" etc. I bought a couple Greenlee hole taps and made a 1/2" hole towards the upper corner on the side for the cat 5 cable and in the center made a 3/4" hole for the cords. Its a tight fit with the grounded plug and the 8 cords but I figure tighter is better. I figure with the cords, boxes, strain reliefs and screws I have about $16.00 in each box. I plan to take some pictures this weekend as I finish up the last four boxes and will post themGreg
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