Norm Ivey Posted May 31, 2010 Posted May 31, 2010 I have asked a similar question before, but I was thinking all trains were DC. I was wrong. Lionel trains run on AC current. The train transformer output is 18VAC. How would I use LOR to control a Lionel train--to start and stop occasionally? Can I use the controller essentially as a transformer to power the train?
Norm Ivey Posted June 1, 2010 Author Posted June 1, 2010 I am replying to myself because I have considered this a little more. Could I run 120VAC to the transformer as normal, run 18VAC from the transformer to my controller or to a few channels on the controller, and then use the controller to manipulate the train. I think this would work, and should be much safer. Any comments or ideas?
Denny Posted June 1, 2010 Posted June 1, 2010 Norm Ivey wrote: I am replying to myself because I have considered this a little more. Could I run 120VAC to the transformer as normal, run 18VAC from the transformer to my controller or to a few channels on the controller, and then use the controller to manipulate the train. I think this would work, and should be much safer. Any comments or ideas?If I understand you correctly, I don't think you will be able to do what you are thinking about. I do not think you can run 18V to one side of the AC boards and 120 to the other side. Even if you could, you would only use one channel to control the train and the other seven could not be used for anything else.From what I remember about Lionel and American Flyer trains, they will also run on DC (they just won't change directions). If so, you could use a DC board which can have different voltages to each side. Then again, you would not be able to use one side of the board for anything else. You wouldn't really need to use LOR to turn the transformer on, you could leave it on constantly.
Alan C Posted June 1, 2010 Posted June 1, 2010 A number of us in "230-240v areas" run 24v on at least one side of the ac controllers. Most of the LED strings here are sold as 24v strings with transformers. 24v operation is far safer outside.Regards,Alan.
Dan Ancona Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 How about SSR's or manual relays? I think that would be the easiest solution.
Tim Fischer Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 Dan Ancona wrote: How about SSR's or manual relays? I think that would be the easiest solution.Agreed - I think a simple mechanical relay with a 120V coil would do the trick nicely, as long as you don't need to control speed. I'd probably switch the stepped-down AC power on the low-voltage side of the transformer if it were me, rather than the 120VAC power to the transformer.I personally wouldn't run a transformer directly into an LOR channel -- too much risk of damage with unintentional dimming.Good luck - I love trains too
Steven Posted June 3, 2010 Posted June 3, 2010 Tim Fischer wrote: I personally wouldn't run a transformer directly into an LOR channel -- too much risk of damage with unintentional dimming.One year I destroyed a transformer with accidental dimming. Transformers are destroyed this way by heat, so doing a short test won't destroy them. In my case I had a sequence in which I accidentally had a fade up / fade down, that I ran throughout my show. It actually took a couple of nights for the transformer to get hot enough to fail.The next year I replaced the transformer, and carefully checked all sequences before putting them in the show. It worked with no trouble.
Tim Fischer Posted June 3, 2010 Posted June 3, 2010 Another option, which I always recommend for such "one up" on/off control things is X10. It's a little expensive if this is the only thing you'd control with it, but once you spend the $40-ish to set it up, adding additional 'channels' only costs about $8 each. It's not suitable for fine-timed control but great for things like static lights, or just turning on the train at the start of a song, etc...
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