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Favorite Decorating Holiday?

  1. Looking for someone in the Cincinnati area that is familiar with cutting and soldering CCR strips. These old eyes and shaky hands just not going to get the job done. Willing to compensate for time. Have soldering station etc. Now looking at this for 2016 season but would like to get started soon. Have the CCR's for house roof outline but of course roofline does not come in convenient 16 foot lengths so need to do some modifying. Modifications will consist of cutting a strip and adding a length of wire in the cut.
  2. Hello I was thinking of buying 2 CTB16PC kits that require soldering, It would save a lot of money. Anyway I'm very bad at soldering, and If I do buy these kits want to be prepared and do not want to throw my money on something I can't get working. dose anyone have soldering advice or tips or anything to say why I should or should not do this. Please help Thanks!
  3. We did a Re-Make of our Star Wars Tribute Medley video featuring some Drone Aerial Views. Enjoy !! https://youtu.be/ZsikygFc5mo
  4. Would anyone have Carol of the Bells (Dubstep) by Capital Kings with no RGB's sequence for free or to purchase? I would be happy with beats to add to my mega trees and arches. 32 or 64 channels would be fine. EMAIL TROBERTS21277@GMAIL.COM
  5. I am going to build a matrix that is 75x14 pixels, with an outline of 150 nodes around the edge. I have it set up in XLights, and I can do it in FPP (I am now testing out FPP to see what I should run my show with). I want to control it with a Pixlite 4. It has four outputs, obviously. I want four of the fourteen lines on one, four on another, four on another, then three. But I don't see how I can set this up, because the visualiser only allows 170 pixels per universe. The Pixlite can have pixels spanning multiple universes, but I know the visualiser can't. Is it not at all possible to set this up?
  6. I've been really happy with cutting up my CCRs in to little pixel segments and doing crafty things around the display. BUT~~~~ Although I don't see any water inside the tubes I silicone glued shut, the rain came and with each cloud passing, I lost yet another pixel. Micro-Water damage I am assuming. I'll work on better waterproofing for next year's display. QUESTIONS: 1. Can I purchase just CCR strips/segments from LOR or other? My controllers are just fine. 2. Does the "white light of death" I see in these things indicate I should give up on the pixels, or can they be saved? Thanks for your thoughts and sharing experiences. Jay
  7. Started my first year with one LOR controller. Created a 10 channel mega tree and three 2 channel each mini trees. Looking to expand next year but want to go rgb pixel with a pixel tree and arches. I have looked at a lot of online videos but while I understand I need a different kind of controller and power supply i really don't know were to begin or what i need. Can anyone help me make my shopping list and point me in the right direction?
  8. I have just replaced twice my led in my rgb floods. I don't understand why only the reds keep burning out but the green and the blue works just fine. voltage on my power supply is only 12.2 and 11.9 with other on at same time this keeps happening on both my floods. ??????????????????
  9. So this is my first time putting my own CTB16Kpc together and I've run into a problem. My LED doesn't light up. It did when I first finished putting everything together but I only had control over 3 channels (13, 15, and 16). I unplugged everything and re soldered a lot of the connections hoping that would fix the problem. I was also checking around with a multimeter and the board tipped over and came in contact with the support strip in my box and there were sparks. There is a tiny bit of blackening/damage on the outer connection of the resistor at station 12 but that's all I can find. So between that and the resoldering I lost my LED. I've followed these instructions http://www1.lightorama.com/PDF/Kit_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf and have gotten to the step which reads: Check for 25 VAC by touching probes to the left side of D1 & D2, if not present or low, check voltage jumpers next to transformer, check all solder connections for transformer, fuse holders and voltage jumpers. Check that both C2 [& C3 for CTB16KV6] (big electrolytic capacitors) are properly oriented. I am getting 15.7 VAC across D1 and D2 so I am assuming that is my problem. I have checked the solder connections it says too several times and C2 & C3 are properly aligned. I'm not 100% sure what it means by voltage jumpers, I've got my voltage selection set correctly and I have checked the solder to that piece a couple times. So I don't know where to go from here. I am afraid I damaged something when it tipped over but I don't know where to start checking for that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  10. I know its last minute.... but i have 2 songs done for my show this year... and I would really like to have more... its has almost taken me 6 weeks just to program these 2 songs.. its only my second year and I am still having trouble programming songs... if anyone here is able to help me with some programming, i would really appreciate it.. I know this is alot to ask, but if i could send you the layout of my channels, and you can program any song you have with it.. Of courseI can pay for your help through paypal or direct deposit... whatever works best for you.... from what i have heard most good programers can program a song in about 8 hours.... as for me its taken 6 weeks for 2 songs... So i havent gotten the feel for it yet.. but i would really like a nice show this year... last year was a let down for me, because i didnt ask for help... so please let me konw your price and if you could program a song thank you... it would be a great help .... thank you in advance for ou help
  11. I know its last minute.... but i have 2 songs done for my show this year... and I would really like to have more... its has almost taken me 6 weeks just to program this 2 songs.. its only my second year and I am still having trouble programming songs... if anyone here is able to help me with some programming, i would really appreciate it.. I know this songs like a lot ot ask, but if i could send you the layout channels, and maybe you can program any song you have with it.. Of course i can pay for you help through paypal or direct deposit... whatever works best for you.... from what i have heard most good programers can program a song in about 8 hours.... as for me its taken 6 weeks for 2 songs... So i havent gotten the feel for it yet.. but i would really like a nice show this year... last year was a let down for me, because i didnt has for help... so please let me konw your price and if you could program a song thank you.
  12. Here is A video of my 2015 Halloween Light Show sequenced to Disneyland's Halloween Screams Sound track: One little fun fact about the show is at 6:36 in to the video look watch carefully you will be able to see my cat Olive. New for this year are 2 video screens 1x 32" TV (on the railing) and 1x 8 by 10 foot projection screen (to the right) One thing I should mention with the video screens is that I edited the video footage over top of them in this video to look better on camera if you want to see a raw video clip of the video screens Click here. Here are some technical specs: 2000 dmx/ E131 channels 3x raspberry pi mini computers running Falcon pi player 1x 16 channel LOR CTB16PC (running in dmx mode) 2x alphapix 4 controllers running 8x 2811 strips and 2x 2811 strings. The lights were Sequenced in a mix of LOR S3 and Xlights 4 and the video editing for the tv and projection screen were done in Final Cut pro X AND THE WHOLE SHOW AND EVERYTHING IN IT WAS DONE BY A 17 year old I got the money to pay for everything working a summer job the last 2 years... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Also anyone who is interested in the sequence files or the video files for the screens, The files will be posted soon, and I will update this post with the link to those files once they are up! Thanks for looking at my show and reading this post! Happy Halloween everyone!
  13. Two years ago I modified 10W flood lights I bought from Amazon. They worked but weren't bright enough since I have a street light across from my house. This summer I decided to try to modify 30W floods lights I saw on Amazon for about $32 each. I bought one and modified it using a 36V power supply, resistors, and Light O Rama CMB24D controller. I did turn down power supply to 32V since controller power max input is 30VDC 30A. I've tested it and ordered 5 more. They've been running in my display for over a week now without a problem. I've received two different version of flood lights from Amazon which are manufactured in China. I'm posting a link to pictures from my dropbox. Hope this helps out a few who are thinking of modifying 30W floods. Version 1: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gm9gn5ub4sfz4dj/AAABPoCWLqzGCYZNFEgIVugYa?dl=0 Version 2: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v725t60cvz3fv8c/AACyq-HBAeHDymh_Pdy6FA63a?dl=0
  14. I have a damaged CCR and had an idea to cut it up in to smaller segments and put some distance between each pixel. Anyone have any suggestions on the best wire gauge/connectors/other that I should consider? Right now I have a standard CTB16PC controller (16 channels) and I am using channels to light a single light bulb in 7 different Styrofoam pumpkins. They only light in one color. My thinking is to put 1-3 pixels in a pumpkin and then have an extension wire go to the next pumpkin for the next three pixels, and so on. This would allow me to do so many more pumpkins and in ANY color I want! (Also a great benefit to go to low voltage and have a safer product where the lights are near the sidewalk) I'm sure this must have been done before, so I would love to hear your advice. (I searched for a while and couldn't find an existing thread - sorry if I am being redundant) Thank you in advance for sharing!
  15. Hello, First off I'm a newbie at this so I may be wrong about a lot of this. Here's what I'm trying to do. I have the lor 16 channel residential controller with built in dmx and a dmx decoder for rgb light strips. Here is the decoder : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q1N1NVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_LO0uwb15P560C I want to control everything in one network using ableton and the dmxis plugin so I can use my Mac. Unfortunately I am getting no reading that I get a dmx input. Even when I try to use the lor program I can't control the rgb strips but the lor controller works. Here is how I have it set up: Computer> usb out to rs485 adapter> rj-45 input on the lor controller> out the other rj-45 port on the lor controller to the dmx decoder. It only has inputs for the individual wires for data + data - and ground. I cut the end of the cable going into that and put the blue/white wire into data +, the blue wire into data - and orange wire to ground. When I touch those wires to the rgb controller is does change to a different color on the strip with each touch but I can't actually control it with the programs. Am I wiring this up incorrectly or am I missing a component. I think I need to get something like the idmx1000 or the holidaycoro actidongle (active dmx dongle). If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeremy
  16. I have 2 CTB16K kits I built. One of which works perfectly and the other cannot be identified by the LOR hrdware utility V4.1.2 The LED on the board just flashes and when queried by the hardware utility, just times out. I have removed the circuit board and looked at all my solder connections, and was sure all the parts are installed correctly in their respective places. I did solder in R1 (Resistor Network) backwards and realized this just as I was finishing the last solder point. So I cut the resistor out, de-soldered all the pins and cleaned the connections. I reordered the replacement part from Digi Key, and got it in a few days later. The numbers were verified and the new component was soldered in correctly. After I finished the PC board, I could never get it to function. I am sure the USB to serial connection is OK, as the other kit I put together works perfectly. I'd like to know which electronics on this card I should check. Obviously from the NIC connector back to what? Since there are no schematics, troubleshooting seems quite difficult. Worse case scenario is to have LOR look at he board and possibly fix it. Any idea of what I should do?
  17. I have been using LOR for years controlling lights, and RGB's. This year I want to add to the show and add singing parrots to the show for a Tiki Christmas. I have purchased 4 - used Squawkers McCaw parrots that I want to hack into with my LOR. I purchased a LOR ServoDog controller, and I have tried to make it work with these through process of trial and error, and so far all I have had is errors. I have hooked the ServoDog to my computer, and that isn't my problem. Where to go from there is. It looks like their are two wires leading to the motor, so that would mean they aren't servo motors if that helps. The Blue and purple wire on the attached picture lead to the motor for the mouth. Has anyone tried to do this before. With this same parrot, or just trying to hack into an existing singing stuffed animal that you can buy at your local wal-mart? Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
  18. Well, I was making good progress putting a CTB16KD together last night, when I realized I had just soldered the R2 resistor in with the dot on the left, not right side . Can anyone tell me how to get this back off without damaging anything else? Thanks!
  19. Hi Guys, I've been looking at LOR products for some time now and I'm now considering to put a small system together at home, I've attached a photo of the front of my house What I was thinking of doing to start with was to highlight the windows, doors, and general building outline with RGB ribbon and hang some icicle lights from the guttering. What I would like to do is build on this each year, but I thought this would be a good starting point. Would like to hear what you guys would recommend. Thanks for your time. Andrew I have the following to highlight if above does not work - 1 x double size garage door - 1 x front door (in a small alcove) - 1 x 1 large window (Approx. 5ft from floor of front door)
  20. This is my first year setting up a LOR light show and I have a question regarding the use and control of some RGB lights I have used in the past. I own multiple sets of the LightShow RGB C9 lights purchased at Home Depot. These come with a remote control and an attached controller. I am hoping to modify these and use them as a dumb RGB string in a LOR setup. Does anyone know if this is possible? I didn't see another thread on this topic but please correct me if I am wrong! Thanks in advance for the help! Here is a link to the lights. http://www.homedepot.com/p/LightShow-AppLights-24-Light-LED-C9-Shape-String-Light-Set-37207/205952111 My version doesn't have the app functionality but are the same brand.
  21. Hello everyone, My name is Billy and this is my first year putting together a show and I am looking for all the help I can get. I have a 16 channel show with one talking star (upper lip, middle lip, bottom lip, & O-face). My show will be 19-minutes long and will gladly share final "product" when complete. Thank you in advance. Sequence requests: Let It Go by Demi Lovato Mary Did You Know by Pentatonix
  22. Firstly Hey everyone, I have been lurking for a long time and finaly got around to signing up. These forums have been very helpful as I learned (still learning) about LOR software, products, etc... Thanks to all who have posted questions and to those who answered, it helps when looking up information. I am impressed with the helping attitude towards people asking questions and am grateful for those who share their knowledge so freely. Ok, enough kissing up After seeing some of the Pixel Spinners videos posted here it made me want to build my own. Thanks to those who shared their work. I lost count of times watching Ron Boyds videos I did want to cut and solder CCR's (my skill level is not that good) So I decided to make mine using CCP's. The Pixel Spinner is built with LOR Cosmic Color Pixels 2 - 50 LED strands, The distance between pixels is 3.5 inches and overall is 53 inches tip to tip (pixels) There are 12 arms with 8 pixels each. Those doing the math will know I had 4 pixels left over, so I just painted the extra 4 out. I used 1/2 EMT to build the legs and zipped tied the Pixels to it. The video shows some of building techniques and the "Real" and "Row" Visualizer pictures to help others who might like to do this. The sequence is a pattern file I created and add to as needed, no music just the sequences so I can grab then later to add to other sequences. (again props to Ron Boyd and others whos video were very inspirational and caused me to think "oh I want that") This is one piece of the prop, the bottom half will be a 10 foot tall x 6 foot 6 inch wide (200 Pixels - 8 rows x 25 pixels per row) I'll post picture when I can. It's not quite a mega tree but it's all i can afford right now. Here a slideshow/video of the end result. Alan...
  23. Smart folks, For Halloween this year, I've set up a show to start on a trigger - all works great. Does anyone have any hints how I can get everything to go dark on a trigger? Essentially a "Blackout" or "Stop All" button. I've played with creating a Jukebox inside the show that plays a sequence with all channels at 0%, but it doesn't seem to be working properly. Am I headed in the right direction? Many thanks, Ray
  24. We watched Kevin's videos (CLD) a few years ago and loved the blinding spots he used to add dramatic effect. Blinder spots aim a strong beam of light right at your viewers for just a moment a key parts of a song for emphasis. For our display, we use 8 blinding spots which go up and come down quickly without any fuss or lasting damage in the form of holes in the house. We simply bought outside water resistant electrical boxes, flood light adapters and SP-2 zip cord (Home improvement store). Screw the flood light adapters into the boxes and ensure all the holes except the bottom one are sealed with the threaded caps. Screw in the flood light adapter and wire the light correctly using the zip wire. SAFETY FIRST - Be SURE you did it correctly and that the box doesn't leak. Water and electricity don't play well. If you're not sure, hire someone qualified. For annual installation of the light on your house, use a smaller wire tie permanently around the neck of the flood light adapter, then take a much longer wire tie (Walmart) and run it around your gutter ensuring that you go through the smaller wire tie in the front and pull tight. The small wire tie ensures the big one doesn't slip off the box in high winds. Connect the zip wire to your controller channel, add a light bulb and you're done. For removal, just snip the larger wire tie only and box up the light for next year. (Photo). Have a safe installation!
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