dgrant

Are they of the same manufacturer and same batch? Sorry, before I got off on a tangent as such thinking about RGB intelligent LED's. If you have different batches, different manufacturers, they each have their own specifications when they were designed. Even on intelligent led's such as the 24x50 matrix I have outside right now, each strip, when on white, comparing all 24 strips at the same time, some are slightly different so I'm thinking that standard led sets are similar...slightly different. Could be different full wave rectifiers or the quality of the rectifiers. Could be the filtering c

I only have 1 CCR and its probably a 1st gen type. When S5 came out, I quickly found out that the CCR would not run via a standard network when it worked just fine under S4. It now requires an "enhanced" network to operate. Doing so, it works perfectly.

As mentioned, a decent contact cleaner first, possibly use a soft brush to assist in cleaning them. Do not push them inward. Then you should be able to use a "bulb grease" which is not conductive. Do not use a silicone spray as I think it would make things considerably worse by insulating the contacts. A long time staple of contact cleaners is good old fashion Isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Remember too that both the RJ45 connectors and the Cat5/6 cable connectors need cleaning.

How many sets are plugged into each other? I'm wondering about the need or not, to inject power.

If I have to guess, I'm thinking that the sun is causing yellowing of the led covering. Because the frequency of the lights, the red, greens and blues are being impacted but not as noticeable as the white light.

I think...the Find Pixcon16 button might be just for E1.31 connections, not the RS485. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. For the RS485, first make sure you are plugged into the correct Pixcon16 port since the E1.31 ports look identical. Secondly, if you are using the RS485 and using the Red USB/RS485 adapter, perhaps you need to insure its selected as an "Enhanced" port as opposed to a standard port. Back on E1.31, I've run into an issue for years that I usually have to disable the other ethernet connection that goes to the internet in order for LOR to be able to find my Pixcon16's.

So very nice of you Mike!!! If any of us can help out, lets do so.

If you have solder flux, it makes life a lot easier. Do not overheat the connection but heat enough for the solder to flow.

Please insure you haven't shorted any of the three solder tabs together. Use a magnifying glass if needed. DO NOT touch the soldering iron to the wires/tabs if they are connected to the system. Make sure its disconnected first.

I have LPD6803's which are smart 4-wire types, same as LOR's CCR's. +, -, clk and data are all used

I've not tried to weld them yet as zip ties do a good job but I'm thinking the propane torch is a good idea and using solder for pipes as it has an acid flux that promotes the joining of the metals. Again, I've not tried it so I could be wrong.

On the LED Keeper, plug in the power plug into the keeper are specified. Next go to just past the first led that doesn't work. Using the small pin injectors on the tool, you'll sort of crimp into the wires and then squeeze the trigger...if I remember correctly. Its been a year since I used mine. That first LED should now light but dimly. Now go to the middle of the area that doesn't light and do the same thing again. If the whole area now doesn't light up, the problem is farther downstream. If it does not light up, then you have a problem between there and upstream to that first led that hopef

Looking at the photo, it looks almost like you have a 4-wire strip and not a 3-wire. Please confirm 3 wire but the count of the small joining strips between each segment. As Jim said, the adapters are difficult to use, plus they are not waterproof. Those adapters also are very width dependent therefore you have to insure the correct ones or trim the strips as needed if the adapter is too small. I have them too but I gave up trying to use them and simply solder wires. Even that, is touchy to do, using the correct heat, flux and a very steady hand.

As mentioned already, you might have grabbed a crossover cable instead of a standard patch cable therefore the wiring isn't right. Another possibility is to insure your CMB24 does indeed have ID7 set within and not 1 or 2. As suggested, look carefully inside the pins of the RJ45 connectors for a pin that's pushed back. It happens. If you find one pushed in or back, you need a very tiny or slim hook type tool to carefully pull it back up. If its damaged, you'll need to contact the help desk for a replacement and hope you know how to solder.

I use an amplifier with outdoor rock speakers. Frankly, the quality is a lot better than computer speakers, but to be fair, not all computer speakers are bad. Many are very nice indeed. These rock speakers can sit outside and they are wired for 70V operation but I just run them straight from the amp. The signal gets to the amp via the RF transmitter which also provides for signal to the cars watching the show. Just a matter of adjusting the output to the transmitter and the output from the transmitter, to get a nice clean signal/sound. I got these speakers from Amazon years ago and have been u