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Everything posted by k6ccc

  1. Yes, banks are a similar concept to the left and right sides of a AC controller. Output ports 1 - 8 are on one physical side of the board and are fed from one power inlet, and output ports 9 - 16 are on the other side of the board and fed from a second power inlet. Most WS2811 pixels are about 55 - 60 mAmp per pixel at full white. So figure a string of 50 pixels is about 3 amps. LOR sells lower power pixels that are about half that.
  2. As for pixel spacing. The RGB LEDs of a CCR (or other 30 pixel LED per meter ribbon) is just a hair under 1.33 inches. However you can only control groups of three adjacent LEDs. In other words, the first three RGB LEDs are the first controllable pixel; RGB LEDs 4, 5, & 6 are the second controllable pixel, etc. That means that each controllable pixel is a short line about four inches long. For some things that is fine, and for some it is not so great. Note that there are ribbons that have a pixel chip controlling each RGB LED individually - but the LOR Cosmic Color Ribbon is not.
  3. If you are looking for lowest total wattage, with most pixels you will get less power consumption with 5 volt pixels as opposed to 12 volt pixels.
  4. If you are asking about a plate to sit on the roof, I think you are still missing something. Think of the capital letter Y - except upside down (or the Peace symbol if you prefer). The pipe along the roof is the center of the inverted Y (where all three lines come together), and the two sloping sides lay down right on top of the slope of the roof. I have never needed anything to hold it down, but sandbags would be better than a dumbbell I would think. The vertical part of the inverted Y is the lights attached to the top of the pipe. Zip ties, or screws depending on how the lights mount (I
  5. Not exactly. Sorry, I have no pictures at all. Start with a piece of PVC pipe that runs right along the peak of the roof. Every few feet, put in a T connector so that the straight through openings of the T are in line with the roof, and the third leg goes off to one side. This is the important part. The piece going to the side MUST be glued so that a short piece of PVC inserted into that T will lay flat on the roof. Alternate the direction. In other words, if for example your roofline is exactly a north / south line. The first side piece goes east and the next is west, then east, then
  6. That's what I did with my roofline peak lights. Built a frame that has a pipe right along the roofline peak with a piece that goes down each side every few feet to keep it in place. You could put some sandbags on top of the side pieces if it is needed.
  7. First of all, thank you very much. That was my first year with a musical show. I state that I have absolutely no artistic creativity, so I purchased the sequence for the pixel tree (from Mr. SuperStar - Brian Bruderer for that one), and then use the colors and motions from the tree to pattern the rest of the yard. Also note that the sequence was created in SuperStar.
  8. Likely the easiest (IF it will ALWAYS be treated as eight groups where all the pixels in a group will ALWAYS behave the same), it to set the 50 pixels up as groups in the controller itself - provided the controller you are using can do pixel groups (most can). That way as far as sequencing is concerned, it IS eight RGB channel sets. I am doing that on my roses where each RGB "pixel" is actually about 2 1/2 feet of strip. This only works if those arches will ALWAYS be treated as eight RGB channels and your controller can do that. With that said, I have six 50 pixel arches, and in my opi
  9. Ding, Ding, Ding. As for the second part, each pixel reads the data string, strips off the first set of RGB data that it receives and then regenerates the remainder of the string data. So each pixel thinks that it is the first pixel in the string. One huge advantage of that is that if a pixel fails and you replace it, there is no configuration required to make it work right. Note that there are exceptions that do it different. The old GE Color Effects lights have an initialization routine where the controller and pixels figure out who is who when powered up.
  10. k6ccc


    My opinion since you are brand new is to move to S5 now rather than learn S4 and later have to partially un-learn S4 and learn S5.
  11. I don't think anyone has said that 100+ pixels REQUIRES power injections. The general recommendation has been use PI over 100 pixels at 12 volts or 50 pixels at 5 volts. and the STRONG recommendation is to test with the pixels that you will be using. Do that test and put an amp meter on it and tell me that it meets the current spec for a Pixie (or any other) controller. Even with low power pixels, that will massively exceed current spec for any pixel controller I've ever seen specs for. Just because it worked, does not make it a good engineering design. Next test is measure the vo
  12. JR, A reminder that the LOR pixels (at least in the past) have all been low power nodes. They draw about 30mA per pixel instead of the FAR MORE COMMON 55 - 60mA per pixel (at full white). I have little doubt that 170 12 volt LOW POWER nodes will work without power injection. Do that with standard pixels and you are drawing about 10 amps at full white. Neither the pixel wiring nor the fuse on the pixel controller will take that for very long. Note that even with low power pixels, you are drawing about 5 amps with 170 pixels which exceeds the rating of the Pixie series controllers. It
  13. My personal opinion is to avoid strips as much as possible. Biggest reason is that WHEN (not if) a pixel fails, pixels in a string are FAR easier to repair than a strip. If you are mounting this on your front fence, how far away will it be from the viewers? JR is spot on about large pixel spacing requiring a longer distance from the viewers in order to look good. If it's really close, I would be looking at a P10 or even P5 based matrix. Yea, it's a whole bunch of new learning, but not all that hard to do, and you have quite a while to figure it out.
  14. E1.31 pretty easy after you learn a few concepts You do have up upgrade to at least an Advanced level LOR license to do E1.31. However for pixels you pretty much need to go Pro anyway. And if you do it right, it's not a problem to get miles on the right WiFi equipment (I have a 4.2 mile link from my house).
  15. Other option if you are using E1.31 is to use a WiFi link. Then at the far end, use a WiFi device set up as a bridge and either connect to one or more E1.31 controllers or use the new PixieLink to convert to drive Pixie controllers. If you go this route DO NOT USE your existing home WiFi - unless you want your show to crash when your kid surfs YouTube or someone does a large file transfer. Set up a separate WiFi.
  16. Sure. A null pixel is no different than any other pixel. The fact that we will never send any lighting commands does not matter. OK, maybe the pixel used is one that has a dead color that was pulled out of some other string...
  17. Sure it will - but you have to sequence it - as opposed to telling the controller to insert it for you. Let's say for the discussion, you have 150 pixels evenly divided on three windows and because of distance you need a null pixel after pixel 100 (after the second window - so you will actually need 151 pixels when you include the null pixel). When you set up your preview (in S5) or channel config (earlier versions), window 1 becomes channels 1 - 150 (pixels 1 - 50), window 2 becomes channels 151 - 300 (pixels 51 - 100), the "null pixel" becomes channels 301 - 303 (pixel 101), and window
  18. That largely depends on the controllers. Different controllers have different possible pixel counts. Also with high counts, the refresh rate goes down. The longest strings I am currently running is 100 pixels. However I don't like running long strings because WHEN (not IF) a pixel fails in a mode where it leave the remainder of that string dark (or worse, full white), far less of the display is affected. BTW, my shortest strings are eight and nine pixels (OK, they are each grouped of 11 pixels, so it is really 88 and 99 pixels, but logically, it is eight and nine pixels).
  19. Yes you can. Menu > Tools > Preferences > Channel Effects > Split RGB into red / green / blue (takes effect when sequence is opened)
  20. I do have my show computer sending me E-Mails (could also go to text message if desired) for various show characteristics. However that is all with a show computer, not a director. I am doing things that requires a show computer because it can't be done with a director (E1.31 among other things). Setting up notifications from a computer is fairly easy, and I can help with that. Not much you can do with a director however.
  21. Sorry, I don't know. All I am buying is the Pixel Tree. I sequence the rest of my show around the colors and movements of the tree - with the exception of my singing faces (not pixels) that JR sequences.
  22. Major league request. Most of mine are purchased from people who have the artistic creativity that I lack. Here are some of the sources I use. Make sure you are getting the files in the format that you need. For example, I am doing almost all my sequencing in SuperStar, so I need that format. If you need Sequence Editor format, make sure that the song is in that format. Some sources will provide both. Also there are some other sources are only dealing in xLights. http://superstarlights.com/ https://www.holidaysequences.com/Default.asp http://www.seasonalsequences.com/stor
  23. The other one that you can do is to simply change the shape to a triangle and change the size (down in the lower left corner as KYHI said). That will likely get it close enough to a "tree" shape.
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