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BrandonH

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Everything posted by BrandonH

  1. Hello Dale, Sorry I didn't read this earlier. I am a lor user since 2009, joined the lor forums just a few years ago, and have been in most of the facebook groups for over a year. You have correct information, but your reasoning is off. To begin, I feel like light-o-rama did what they had to do for their buisness forums. I love reading through the forums but almost never post, it is a great source of information still. I can't speak for every one of the 1,000+ people in the facebook groups, but I feel that drama is only created when a new user is arrogant or rude, which is exactly what the
  2. Operating Temp: -20°F to 140°F http://www.lightorama.com/PDF/CR150D.pdf
  3. Hey! Welcome to the hobby! I think that almost everything has been said. I'll just give you a few links that might help. Controllers: Many of us use the CTB16PC controller because (for a residential display) it is cheaper, lighter, and accomplishes almost the same thing as the UL listed controllers also sold by Lightorama. The ctb16 can come with power cables plugged in to the board and ready to go, not plugged in but in the box, or without power cables at all. -Fully assembled controller: http://store.lightorama.com/ctretogonoas.html -Mostly assembled controller: http://store.lightorama.com/c
  4. www.lor2012.com no longer exists. Odd.. It now redirects to www.lightorama.com
  5. NOTE: As I say this, I am no expert and am only speaking from what I have learned. By definition, the rope is either rated for 24vdc, 12vdc, or 5vdc. I am also making the assumption that the rgb rope does not have any smart chips in it like the color ribbon. -If it has data chips in it, you would need a seperate data controller for it, and could not use an lor ac unit. -If it does not have data chips in it, there would be two major hurdles to get over, basically making the attempt not worth it in my opinion. This is why people are saying just get a dc board, it is most likely cheaper and respo
  6. While you are collecting links, Here's another that I have been happy with in the past. It's a Michigan based reseller that has the best prices I've seen so far (if you are talking cost per bulb). The lights that I recieved in the past have been good quality also. (knock on wood) http://www.holiday-light-express.com/ The only catch that i've found so far is that they only sell led mini lights. no c9 or c7 replacements. Hope that helps! Brandon H
  7. CDI stands for Creative Displays Inc. Here's a link to that item you are looking for: http://www.creatived...lacement-Lamps/ EDIT: Nevermind. Max-Paul beat me to it. =)
  8. DevMike wrote: Here's a quick picture of how to do that. After creating a single tree with 16 segments, choose "fixtures" at the top right, and double click the tree strand you want to assign channels to. Double click the box under "assigned channels - name" to assign color, name, and channel information to the string. when you fill up more than one box, the tree will show multiple colors without having to create a new tree. Hope that helps! Brandon H. Attached files
  9. Thank you for the update, Dan and DevMike, I really do appreciate it! Jeff, I don't think DevMike is questioning your result, but your methods of getting to that result. While an update is nice to have every few weeks, Forcing a responce by questioning lor's ability to deliver probably wasn't the best option you had at the time. That said: it's just my outside observation. Take it as you'd like.
  10. I can garuntee that version 1.6.9 and later did not chase through all 16 channels unless you left all 16 channels selected. Could you have had all 16 channels selected in the HU and only 5 strings of lights attatched?
  11. Jim, I promise they are not messing with you. The selection of channels to cycle has been around as long as I can remember, and I started with version 1.5 or something in the S1 suite. I would use that feature all of the time in S2 to test circuits.
  12. PaulXmas wrote: I'd suggest the PC series also. A side note on extension cords: they can get really expensive. Many of us create our own custom length cords using spt1 (generally 8 amp) wire. This can help us save alot of money. The wire runs $100-140 online for 1000 feet, and the ends (plug in's) are $0.50- 0.80 a piece. Here is a link to a spt1 wire and ends page: http://www.christmaslightshow.com/Spt1-Wire-Plugs-and-Sockets-for-Christmas-outdoor-decorations.html Just thought I'd share. Our first year we tried to use the orange cords, and it was a mess!
  13. It is silicone. I used it on the ends of each of my ccr's. The flexible stip likes sliding inside the containing tube and pushing out the start or end caps when it is rolled up and unrolled. Check the end caps of the ccr to make sure that you have a good seal before you put your ccr outside for a month.
  14. Racemedic, do you have superstar? Try this: http://www.LightsAtLutheran.com/racemedic
  15. Awesome! Didn't know about that. Thanks, Brian!
  16. Is there any plan to add the ability to enter hexadecimal codes to define a color in superstar? Doing the math to find percentages is fine, but time consuming when you want to (kind-of) match a color seen online.
  17. You should repost this in the "lor users" group on facebook. I'm sure you would get likes!
  18. I am not sure what the ccr controller output / strip input is, but I would think it would be standard rgb pixel ribbon protocol. It's a question for someone above my level of knowledge. I do know that if you double the number of lights, you double the power draw, which may be more than the power supply for the ccr controller is designed for. If you are highly serious about using the ccr controller with a seperate ribbon, I'd send a pm to Dan. He will know what he is talking about, or be able to find someone who does. Short answer: I wouldn't have a clue, but lightorama has great customer s
  19. Thanks Jeff! -To answer the original question, yes I would buy ccr sections. But if the ccr is no longer under warranty, I'm almost positive that you can work something like that out with John or Dan currently.
  20. When wondering what the words to a song are, I've learned that if you use google the song, it should be the first 5+ results. Just type in song name, artist name, and then the word lyrics. ex: "God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen MercyMe Lyrics" Hope that helps, Brandon H.
  21. Jeff Millard wrote: Jeff, you mentioned taking the ribbon out of the tube and sliding it back in. My ribbon keeps sliding towards the power/data input side, slowly coming out of its tube when rolled up. -How did you slide the ribbon back in? pulling it in, or shoving? So far we have just been siliconing the end that was coming out, but soon we will have to do something different. Brandon H.
  22. Dave, I would recommend purchasing the s3 add on, Superstar editor. It makes programming ccr's effortless! To learn how to use superstar, there are a few short youtube tutorials that cover mostly multiple ccr's, but the morph examples(chase from point a to point in the advanced tutorial can be useful to arch programming. Here is the advanced tutorial:
  23. Jeffrey, your programming is epic! I highly enjoy learning new programming techniques from other lor users, so thank you. What happened to the green in the video though?
  24. -RaceMedic, youtube purposely drops audio quality, and duplicating even with audacity directly looses more quality. -1983, I was bored and hunted for it also, with no luck. I did find their email: info@spiraling.net http://spiraling.net/
  25. I was looking at this about a month ago, Paul. I just can't justify the cost of putting in an led arch when the ccr is an option. The main difference is light type (preference of look). The advantage is 142 more sections, easy setup, more colors, and a much brighter arch. The disadvantage is more data, more programming, and the controller and power supply need to be in a watertight enclosure. If you create a ccr arch, I would definitely recommend using superstar add-on in s3 to program it(Makes programming much easier!).
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