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BadSCR

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  1. I have not tried these, Found them with a quick google. http://sourceforge.net/projects/usbtrigsynctoy/ This app, monitors the USB bus and whenever a USB mass storage device is inserted it triggers a sync process. The sync process first checks to see if any of the removable drives have synctoy marker files, if so then it starts the sync process. http://sourceforge.net/projects/quicksync/ Synchronize folders or files by just dropping them onto a panel. With options "Ask Before Replace", "Sync Sub Folders" and "Polling time". New drives are automaically detected and if there are any da
  2. Yes they could be stolen, but that woud mean they had to get a close-up and that would give me a very good positive ID. There are other things like sun light that is'nt good for the camera, going higher helps with that. I have seen in some new banks, and banks that have updated ther cameras, that they too are about 6~7 feet. I have even seen a few installed into the counter top pointing up. Buttom line is that, it is about getting a positive ID; that says without-a-doubt that what the camera shows is the defendant. It is a long story, but he was a repeat enuff that I finally got it right
  3. I would use a standalone DVR. The PC ones require alot from a PC. Ideally place the cameras about 6~7 feet off the ground (head hight). Think like a bad guy where are you going to walk. Go out at night and test the cameras, You need a very good image to use for the cops and to get a positive ID, I know from experience. You need to add lighting where needed. The lights need to be just right, not too much and not too little. you want to diffuse the light not a spot. The IR rateing is a lie, Devid it by two or three; if it says 30feet it is more like 12 feet. The cheap cameras you ne
  4. Just in case, I have relocated the dvr hard-drive into a fire proof wall safe and wall papered over it, so that if they got smart and stoll the dvr they would have unhooked the hard drive and left the hard drive behind. Also used a UPS power supply on the dvr and cameras. Also have two simi-hidden day/night cameras in the house.
  5. I would recommend cheap motion flood lights with the cameras. The day/night cameras are good but not good enough to get a positive ID that can hold up in court. Now , I have a motion flood light for every camera and they paided off a number of times. I would get a minimum of an 8 camera system. Never could have too many cameras. Attached files
  6. I use a "Dry-Erase Marker" on my CRT Monitor (Do not use on LCD or plasma!!), helps with the sequencing. Backup the files. I didn't, then in just 15minutes I messed-up every sequence I had done. How?, I thought that a 30% background intensity would look good (nop too bright), and couldn't undo it or lower it. Had, I had a backup file, it would have saved me a week of work. I did the two weeks ago.
  7. FIY. A paintball gun is classified as a Class 2 Firearm.
  8. I have just discovered PIC microcontrollers and loving it. I would love to know the LOR protocol, for some of my little projects. The next LOR board that I buy, I am going to reverse engineer it, So that I have a schematic for it. One of the little projects i would like to do is Build a little "One-Channel wireless LOR board" (~$20 each board). You could use a Serial Port Monitor/Sniffer And reverse engineer it. (If I could find a good Serial Sniffer that is free I would) I too would like something sanctioned by LOR.
  9. http://www.paintballsentry.com/ There is an option in software to mask-out areas and also the size of the targets to fire at. I was looking at getting one and use it as an, Automatic PTZ Camera / Spot Light. I know I will forget and leave it on while I go outside to fix something.
  10. Here is something for the DIYer. I don't have the money but one of yall may. 9.84" Long x 0.39" diameter , 1500watt Xenon strobe tube , http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16469 1000VDC and 4KV for trigger, 5.6"L x .36" Dia , powerful Xenon strobe http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16669
  11. I do need a 2ch O'scope, just can't seem to find the money to drop onto a good one. I have no specifications on the strobes, other-then is says 12Vdc on the bottom. "I wonder if some of this voltage you are seeing is in part is the CEMF from the transformer" Thanking the same thing. ps: I love your Icon pic under your name, Very Cool.
  12. The reading are physical. (I use another DVM thinking that the first was wrong) The strobe makes a high pitch noise some other readings: The transistor has 1.48Volts drop from C to E The transformer has 1.63Volt drop on the primary side
  13. Ok, Lets recap. Original Strobe: Vs-----> R1 ----> Strobe -----> Ground Running on 7.5Vdc and pulling 375mA The 20-ohm 1-watt resistor has 7.49Vdc drop (7.49Vdc*375mA=2.81Watts) Modified Strobe: Vs-----> R1 ----> R2 ----> Strobe -----> Ground Added a 16-ohm 5-watt resistor in series with the 20-ohm resistor. Running on 7.5Vdc and pulling 208mA The (R1) 20-ohm 1-watt resistor has 4.16Vdc drop (4.16Vdc*208mA=0.865Watts) The (R2)16-ohm 5-watt resistor has 3.33Vdc drop (3.33Vdc*208mA=0.693Watts) R1+R2=Vs 4.16Vdc+3.33Vdc=7.49Vdc kirtchovs law I added a r
  14. deblen wrote: The best thing to do would be to use a 240V > 110V step down transformers. My strobes a very rare, mainly mine are defects.
  15. Max-Paul I see what you are talking about, the voltages you give are right, With the two resistors they devide the voltage between them, if there was just one resistor there would be a Full 7.5Volts across it. With capacitors: Have to use supper position, have to replace the capacitor with a Short, inorder to do the Calculations. deblen Strobe are 240Volt strobes anyhow. (basic strobe Power supply, capacitor, Triger-Coil, Xeon tube) The easy way to convert 110Volt strobes to 220Volt strobes is to Bypass the voltage dobbling part of the circuit, But keep a Diode going to the main capacit
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