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Everything posted by LORisAwesome

  1. LOR controllers are not designed to run a motor. You would need to hook up a relay to do this. One option is to modify the inflatable so that the motor and lights are separate. This way you can control the light in the inflatable without starting/stopping the motor. When I use inflatables, I like to leave them on all the time because the look good in daylight. A couple of options. You could have a background sequence that turns runs in all the sequences to keep the inflatable channel on. A startup and shut down sequence is also a possibility. I have not used either, so I am n
  2. I also use Zara radio to play Christmas music when the display is not running. I turn off the amplifier that drives the outside speakers after 10:00pm. It comes back on around 9:30am. That way the music does not bother the neighbors during times that most people sleep. Even though the amplifier is off, the music can still be heard on the radio. I use Insteon to control the amplifier and the static items in the display.
  3. Back to your original post. Your controller addresses are 10, 11, and 12. You also said the you set the controller count in the HU to 16. The controller addresses are hexadecimal, but the unit count in the HU is a decimal value (I think). So 10 hex=16, 11 hex=17, and 12 hex=18. My guess it the HU is only finding the controller with address 10. Try to set the count in the HU higher than 18 and see what happens.
  4. The link doesn't work for me. Must be a local problem. Thanks
  5. I can't seem to get to their web site. Anyone know what is going on?
  6. If you are trying to run sequences from the sequence editor, be sure the control lights option is checked.
  7. If you contact Light O Rama, I think they will provide the parts you need. Jerry
  8. Bob, Chuck once told me that he ground a pair of snips down to the correct width so that he could us them to make inline plugs. I think he started with something like this. https://smile.amazon.com/Cutting-Pliers-Precision-Nipper-Jewelry/dp/B01NCN4J0K/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1535111086&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=end+cutting+pliers&psc
  9. I jokingly refer to the city as Lost Wages. lol Jerry
  10. I use Insteon to control some static items. Radio sign, blow molds, etc... I just use the timer feature in my Insteon Hub. Jerry
  11. Dibblejr I understand what a 7-segment display is. I was referring to the OP, his example only had two digits. Just joking around anyway.
  12. Why not a three digit number? BTW today there are 302 days until Christmas. lol
  13. I think they look fine. Try it, if you don't like it, you can always dump out the sand and try something else. A bag of sand isn't very expensive, so you won't lose much. If you think about a real candle. The flame is at the top and the most light is at the top and the candle grows darker nearer the bottom. Jerry
  14. There is a hole in back about 6 inches or less from the bottom of the candle, this is where the power cord exits. I filled mine with sand level with this hole. For the others, I use a lead weight in the bottom - someone else mentioned a patio block, as long as you can get it through the hole in the bottom.
  15. I just bought some outdoor speakers and ran speaker jacks into the same outside box that I have my cat 5 jacks in for the controllers. I have an amplifier in the house hooked up with insteon. this amplifier drives the outdoor speakers. The insteon allows me to turn off the amplifier after 10 so it doesn't bother the neighbors. You can get speaker jacks, cat 5 jacks, wire etc at Home Depot.
  16. I have blow mold candles like those in the photo above. I filled the base with sand. It is enough weight to keep them from blowing over. The solution shown above is good, it looks like it will light the candle very nicely. Jerry
  17. Got it working again last night. I found a fuse at Home Depot - didn't think Home Depot carried that type of fuse. The plug says to use a fuse rated at 125v 5amp max. I actually replaced it with a 1amp fuse. The bulb in it is 40w so 1amp will work and should be safer than the 5 amp fuse. I will check for rust and pinched cord, and check the voltages. Thanks
  18. The fuse is in the blow mold male plug, not one of my controllers. The blow mold is static, so it is not connected to a LOR controller. Sorry for the confusion. The light socket is in the flame part of the candle. It looks to be specially made by the blow mold manufacturer. (General Foam - I think) This is the blow mold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00851KC0Y/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00851KC0Y&pd_rd_r=e10d1a51-c884-11e7-9821-4b13dd402765&pd_rd_w=baQYa&pd_rd_wg=AIyYz&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=FRXBA57NJ4YA180M
  19. It is not a C7 bulb. It is a standard size light bulb, like you would put into a light fixture in your home. I think it is either a 40w or a 60w bulb.
  20. Hi, just finished setting up yesterday. I am having a problem with a blow mold candle it won't light up. I checked to be sure the extension cord is working and that the bulb is good. It must be the fuse in the plug. I haven't had a chance to check it with a multi-meter yet. I have replaced the fuse once before with the spare fuse that came with it, so I no longer have any spares. I am not sure where I can get a new fuse. Radio Shack would have been a good choice, but, I don't think there are any in my area any more. Does anyone know where I might look for a replacement fuse?
  21. How about a Jack Up Mega Pole? (J.U.M.P.) http://www.magicchristmas.org/monkhouse-jump.html
  22. You said these are full wave, so these are LED strings, right? if so, you should get the LED Keeper pro. The Light Keeper Pro is for incandescent strings. https://www.ledkeeper.com/home/ Jerry
  23. I ordered some stuff from Holiday Coro on the first day of their pre-sale. I have my order already. They must have filled it from their stock.
  24. I second that. I would like for it to work with Insteon. Jerry
  25. Hey, you invented something new. I think you should get the honor of naming it. Jerry
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