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Grady29

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  • Location
    Rocklin, CA
  • Occupation
    Engineering inspector

More About Me

  • Interests
    Fishing
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    5.6.4
  • License Level
    Pro

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  1. Thank you. I will try that as a starter.
  2. So I guess I need to keep practicing and just get better and faster...lol Any tips/tricks that might help make it a little easier?
  3. Hello all, I am still new to sequencing and so I am very sloooowwww in the process. Is there a way to have the software (S5 Pro) create a sequence based on the musical song I pick? I'm sure it won't be perfect, but it would be a start and then I could always go in and modify sections to my liking. I did one song manually and it took me hours to do. Thanks-
  4. In my previewer, yes all the pixels light up. When I turn the lights control on and play the sequence or enable a show, it does not light up all the pixels. Only 66 of them. I do have to other window frames and the smaller one is 66 pixels so that one lights up all the pixels. How i setup my pixie4: Turned all dip switches off so I can use the Hardware utility to set the unit ID. I set the unit ID to 04, max # of pixels per port 105, max unit Id 10. (see images) My middle window is plugged into port #3 of the pixie controller. (See attached image on how I have the prop setup)
  5. I made a window frame that has 86 pixels on the frame. The pixels are smart pixels and I setup the prop as smart pixels and verified that I have the correct number of pixels and channels. I have 2- 50 pixel strings hooked together. I also used the hardware utility to test the window frame and all the pixels light up and have the correct RGB order. In the utility, I selected to have all the LED's come on at once and it worked. Then I selected to have them chase each other and they all lit up chasing each other. In the grid view, I right clicked the prop and selected add channel level from pixel prop. I sequenced the window frame using the channel level and not using the motion effects. I primarily did this since it is my first time sequencing Smart RGB's and I wasn't doing any motion effects, so I wanted to see the colors I was selecting in my sequence. There are 86 channels in the drop down and they are all programmed to come on, yet only the first 66 pixels turn on. I assume it must be in how i have something setup or sequenced, since all the LED's light up in the hardware utility. Any help would would greatly be appreciated.
  6. Thank you all for your help. I am going to start trying to figure things out and as I start to build my first smart RGB, I will probably be back.
  7. Thanks everyone for all the info. Helps a lot. A few more questions: 1) It sounds like a toss up on whether I should keep my black and then add a red(HS) or run everything off the red. Curious how many people run everything (traditional and smart RGB) off the red? The only hesitation I have is that I need to run another dedicated cat wire back to the computer and if I won't gain much out of it, I may opt out to do that further down the road. 2) If I am running all 12V pixels, and assuming the PS is sufficient to run all those pixels, can I use a jumper wire from one bank to the other on the Pixie8? 3) Looking on HC website, they offer 2 versions of PS, waterproof and the non-waterproof (Meanwell power supply). Has anyone used the non-waterproof outdoors and mounted it in a waterproof enclosure? If so, any issues? 4) Where are some good sources for the PS's & RGB strings? 5) Does it matter which side of a light string gets hooked up to pixie controller? 6) I have 3 windows I would like to put RGB's around. They measure 13'x7, 10'x7' & 8'x4'. The 2 larger windows are adjacent to eachother and the smaller window is a little further away. Looking at the length of the RGB strings, it will take multiple strings to cover each window. Suggestions on how someone would wire the windows and connect to the pixie controller? Trying to get an idea on how to go about this to give me a starting place. Thanks again for all the advice!
  8. dibblejr- Thank you for the reply. I did not know that I can 'dumb' down smart RGB. To me that makes sense to invest in the pixie controller now and as I learn, I can easily migrate to smart RGB. TheDucks- Thank you for the reply. Your voltage explanation makes sense as I have dealt with similar situations when running my landscape lights. As I read more in the forums and LOR manuals, I am starting to understand a little more and it raises more questions. Here are a few more questions (assuming using a Pixie controller): 1) My understanding is that I can have up to 100 pixels/port recommended, with a max of 170? (If I run 170, would need a power injection) 2) I should run an enhanced network if I plan to run smart RGB's due to the vast amount of data (use a USB485HS)? 3) Can I use just the USB 485HS for both the traditional controllers (AC) and the pixie boards and daisy chain them? 4) Two voltage options for RGB's- 5V or 12V. Seems 12V better option to help mitigate voltage drops? Any benefits to 5v? 5) I would need to run individual extension cords to each power supply, though I may need only 1-20A, 110/120V circuit to power my power supplies, depending on the total power I am using? 6) Voltage option solely dependent on power supply used to power pixie board? 7) How would I terminate the end of a light string to prevent water from entering connector? 8) As an simple example- if I want to make a tree and want 8 vertical strings(lines), can I use 1-50 pixel string to make 2 vertical strings (25 pixels per string)? I would then need 4-50 pixel strings to make the 8 vertical lines. The rest is in the programming to make a line of 25 pixels appear as one vertical string? ( I hope I made some sort of sense here) Thanks for all the help as I begin to understand RGB's.
  9. Grady29

    Preview design

    Thanks everyone for responding. I agree that having a 'perfect' layout on screen is not that important. I just wanted to have room to layout all my props on screen to get an idea of how it will look once done.
  10. Grady29

    Preview design

    AWESOME! Thank you! That is exactly what I was looking for! I will check out the tutorials as I have additional questions that might get answered in the tutorials.
  11. Hello, I am not completely new to LOR- I have a small system of only 48 channels and been fooling around with the light shows for a few years now, as time permits. I have been using traditional lights since the beginning and I decided to add some dumb RGB lights to my display this year. I would love to jump into the smart RBG's and start using the pixie controllers, but based on my research, it seems that it may be too much to take on. I have some questions about RGB's. A little background on how I setup my display. I currently have 3-CTB-16D boards. I have 2 mounted inside my garage and home run all my outdoor displays back to the panels in the garage using SPT wire. My third control board is mounted inside a water proof enclosure and I have it setup near my mega-tree with a cat-5 wire going to the 3rd board from the boards in the garage. I don't use a show director- I run everything from my computer. Almost all my lights are LED, except for a few of my older displays, which are incandescent. I have a FM transmitter (which I don't like and probably need to upgrade). 1) I am running the advanced version of LOR software (current version)- will that be sufficient? 2) From what I read, I will need PI's (power injectors) for each of the dumb controller boards(CMB24D). Depending on the load I have hooked up to each board, is it possible to hook up one PI to more than one board? 3) What is the common/typical setup used for placement of the boards- a) Is it common to mount the boards in a garage and then run wires to each of the pixel ports. This would be a lot of wires to home run to the garage but then the board and PI would be indoors and less likely to get wet and easier to plug the PI into an AC power source. 'or' b) Is it more common to mount the board in a water proof enclosure close to the outdoor displays? Though an extension cord would be needed to run to each of the board locations for AC power. Also, depending on where my props are located, I probably still would need extensions for some of the props to be plugged into the board. 4) Is there any issues I should keep in mind when using both CTB-16D boards and the dumb RGB controller boards? Any issues when making sequences? Excuse me if I sound like I am clueless on how to hookup these RGB controllers. It's a whole new world for me and still trying to figure out how it all comes together and the best way to put it together for myself. If someone thinks I should take en entirely different approach or I should jump in to smart RGB with the pixie controllers and not waste my time with dumb RGB's, I am open to suggestions. Thank you for any and all advice.
  12. Grady29

    Preview design

    I did resize the prop as you suggested, but the thickness of the prop is wide. For instance, if you look at the purple arch, I sized it down to about the proportional size to the backdrop, but the thickness of the arch is very thick. Any suggestions of where I can possibly see some previews and get an idea of what they would look like from someone who has a lot more experience?
  13. Grady29

    Preview design

    Hello all, I am not completely new to LOR-I have a small system of only 48 channels and been fooling around with the light shows for a few years now, as time permits. I have been using traditional lights since the beginning and I decided to add some dumb RGB lights to my display this year. I recently upgraded to the latest LOR and I am trying to navigate the software and ran into some problems with the preview design aspect of the software. I have questions for the RGB lights as well, but to keep things separate and less confusing, I will ask those questions in a separate post. I have taken a picture of my house for a backdrop and uploaded it to the previewer. When I add lights to the display, (ie gutter lights, large arch that someone can walk under), regardless what I choose for a shape, when it is overlayed on my backdrop and I place it on the backdrop, it is quite large. Is there a way to make the shapes that are overlayed on the backdrop smaller so it doesn't take such a large area of the picture? I hope this makes sense. I am not sure if it has to do with that I had to take the picture from far away to get the whole width of the property, which makes the house somewhat small. I uploaded a picture for reference. Please ignore all the stars in the middle of the screen as I was just starting to mess with the preview design. You will see the gutter lights on the house and the purple arch by the front door. They both are fairly large and take up a lot of room, not leaving room for all the displays I have to put in the design. Once I better understand the preview design phase of this, I will take a new picture in the evening and without any cars in the picture. Any help would greatly appreciated. Thanks-
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