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tlogan

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Posts posted by tlogan

  1. Sorry, was out of town Saturday so, just catching up here. I don't get how the share same unit/circuit works, unless you want to props on different units to do the same thing.

    If he (the OP) is using a single 16 AC controller and has multiple props sharing the same channel (there are 7 on Unit 1 circuit 2!), how do you connect up all the other props to that one dangle? If they are all doing the same thing, I just run multiple extension cords using triple taps (although I 've never had more than two on a dangle) and don't even try to sequence a prop that is doing the exact same thing. MAYBE it's worth it if the plan is to move to RGB or smart pixels in the future. But starting out, it seems to me like it will REALLY confuse things. 

  2. 3 hours ago, Don said:

    What is your display doing when a show (of musical sequences) isn't running?

    I run a sequence of all on lights with some generic royalty-free Christmas music and a voice over that counts down every minute until the next show starts. So anyone that arrives with static lights on will know within one minute when the next show starts. And it's in the 2-4 minute range between the two different shows.

    I can keep fussing with it by hand, but thought there may be others that would find it useful.   

  3. Maybe I'm the only one that likes to mix new shows every year and run them on the half hour. I use a recorded voice over countdown to announce how many minutes until the show begins to take up any slack in the previous show.  So is it possible to add to the the show editor the length of each sequence and a running total of the run time as sequences are added? That would make it MUCH easier to know exactly how much slack I need in the voice over to get to the next half hour. Yes, I've done it by hand, but being off even a little can throw the show off the half hour by 5 minutes or so (and possibly a LOT more) by the end of the night. If a show restarts before the next half hour because it is slightly less than 30 minutes, that first sequence of the previous show finishes before the next show actually starts, which can put it off by two or three minutes right off the bat and then it compounds over the rest of the evening.

    I'm hoping that this really is something pretty easy to do and that this is something that no else thinks they need until they see it. 

  4. I actually marked the controller/port and string it goes to on both ends on all mine. And I snaked them together where possible. This allows me to grab a bundle of cables and lay them out in the general area they belong, and then connect all the ends. Keeps them bundled together across the lawn so there are fewer to trip over. Makes it easier to pick them up at the end of the season, too. For instance, instead of picking up 16 extension cords for my mega tree, I pick up two bundles.

  5. Yes, I just went to HD and picked up small cheap hinges. basically just enough to old them together.  I made 10 trees so needed 30! And now that you mention it, I used 18" metal straps that I found in the concrete supply aisle. The straps really stiffen the whole thing up, but wire should work (and be cheaper). I stake down the legs, too. Let me see if I can link to a couple of pictures. I know I have some SOMEWHERE. Again I think the 3 look fine.  

  6. Yes, STORING the tomato cages is a real pain. At least it was for me in my 10x12 shed with all the other stuff in there. I used a single cage and the top half looked fine because I could use the round cross bars. Overall, even with the bottom being somewhat triangular, I thought they looked fine. But....storage. So, last year, I rebuilt them using three lengths of 2x2.  I cut a triangle out of 2x4 and attached small hinges to the 3 sides and then to the legs. You can open them up into a triangle. And you can use the 2x4 block triangle to attach a topper if you want. I painted the wood green and attached lights and can fold them up for storage. Takes up MUCH less room. Yes, they are triangles, but I think they look fine at night with the lights on. At least none of the neighbors have said "what are those things supposed to be?" so I guess they look fine.   

    • Like 1
  7. Hi. My name is Tom and I'm an old fart.

    Coleco Adam, anyone? Yeah, with the CMS OS? And cassette tapes? I added the 5 1/4 disk drive. Loudest printer EVER.

    In 1979 the private school I was teaching at had a PDP 11. No monitor; keyboard and printer only. That's what got me started programming.  Sorry @hasslerk, I got rid of all my punch cards. Still have my blue Brown book, bit ruler, flow chart stencil and both IBM pocket guides. And a couple of old binders of IBM CoBol manuals lying around (although with Book Manager you don't need the paper anymore). As W.C. Fields said to Groucho Marx after showing him his attic full of liquor and Groucho having said, "But, Bill, Prohibition's been over for 20 years" W.C. said, "You never know when it might come back!

  8. Thanks Mr P -

    That's what I've started doing and it gets REALLY tedious across a long sequence and a lot of color changes. I was wondering if there was some magical way to maybe highlight, click and select/insert a new color. I tried adding a motion effect row, but didn't see any easy way there, either.  

  9. @dibblejr

    Hey,JR! Can you help me with this? A while earlier in this thread you said

    Quote

    To  copy from non RGB to RGB what I do is copy the sequence in to all three colors of the RGB port. Making the sequence white. I can later change the color of the sequence in only a couple of clicks

    I've copied a non RGB row to an RGB row and it is currently all white, which is to be expected. Can you expand on the "only a couple of clicks" to change the color? So far, the only way I've found to do it is to go to each color row and change it manually. That is, If I want it Red, I delete Green and Blue in each color row. THat would get REALLY tedious!  

  10. I would also suggest that the props in your design don't need to look perfect, so I wouldn't obsess about it. As long as they are set up properly to the physical prop, if it's too big or small or our of proportion in the design preview, I think it doesn't really matter. You're just trying to see that the sequence is doing what you want it to do. Once you get running on your outside physical props. it should be fine.

     

    Good luck! 

    • Like 1
  11. I would think you can:

    1) change your prop def to 100 pixels

    2) in the sequence block copy the 50 pixel sequence to immediately below (so that it easier to see, as at this point the first 50 and the second 50 would be doing the same thing at the same time)

    3) in the prop def reassign the first 50 to odd numbers 1 to 99

    4) reassign the copied block to even numbers 2-100 (At this point 1 and 2, etc would be doing the same thing at the same time)

    5) export the channel config

    Then once your prop def is fixed, you should be able to go to all the other sequences and block copy 50 pixel sequence and the re-import the channel config and you should be good to go.

  12. 3 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

    But that is my point, as it is now it's just a BS session as anyone can ask a question in the forums or on FB and get an answer, no need to attend the zoom room.

    Even though I wasn't able to join the first session, it seems to me that the Zoom room as envisioned would be a great benefit to get real-time help, not to mention getting ideas just listening to the "BS." And I think the tendency is to give out more detail and context when speaking then trying to write something out in a post. I'm thinking that when (notice I didn't say IF!) I have a question around the time of a scheduled meeting, I'll fire up SE and be prepared to show right then what my problem is, as opposed to a couple of screen shot back-and-forths here or on FB.

    Seems to me there is plenty of room for both (zoom and classes) as they have different purposes. I spent a LOT of time in a Home Theater Builders forum a number of years ago and racked up something like 4K posts and 300K (yes, 300K) views in my build thread. It sure would have been nice to have put some faces with posts and get some real-time feedback on my plans and issues I was running into.

  13. 14 hours ago, dibblejr said:

    No need for an aux network. ATM he doesnt have enough controllers to require one. He can run a plethora of AC controllers with 1 or 2 pixie16's unless he over loads on pixels.

    JR

    I didn't fully understand what he was trying to do...I missed the reference to "hanging bulb" and what he meant but that. I guess I'm so confused about when to separate AC controllers from Pixies that, being newer to this game,  I just found it easier to keep them separate. Once they're set up, and the prop is designed, it doesn't make any difference in the sequencing. I guess I should say that so far, at least to me, it doesn't.

  14. 40 minutes ago, Donl1150 said:

    Thanks, found that but now I am confused on the choices for the drop downs:

    Base Unit ID: (01-whatever)

    Network (Pretty sure it stays as regular)

    RGB Channels: (1-whatever)

    Channels per Unit ID: (16, 32 or 48)

    My existing Preview has 4 - AC controllers only ...... pretty simple layout.  So I assume my Pixie will be Unit 05 but don't know the other selections.

    You need a RED high speed adapter on a separate network from you AC controllers. Usually Aux A to start.

    I HIGHLY recommend looking at the @dibblejr setup tutorial found here. It's the basically same setup for a Pixie 2.  

     

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