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About MattJ

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  • Birthday August 6

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  • Location
    Lantana, TX
  • Occupation
    Telecommunications Operations

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    Sports, Beer
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LOR Software

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  1. Hi folks My question is about using HUB to create the SD cards for G3MP3 show director. My "Show" for Halloween is 8 short animated sequences running sequentially between 6:30pm & 11:30pm on an ELOR 2 network (Reg + Aux A) setup. Every time I update one of the animations and I want to reload the show I have to: Change directory Load the sequences to the show Reorder the sequences Reset the start & End Time Tell the wizard I have 2 ports Reconfigure both network speeds for 500k (it defaults to the slower speed) Then creat
  2. In the end - I fused the 12V power injection line only and it all seems to be working fine. On a string of 133 CCBIIs on a 15ft extension, my voltage had dropped to 8.1 volts after the last bulb. I injected the power after the first 50 CCBs and, with that power injection, the voltage only drops to 11.4 volts after the last bulb!! Now my days are merry and bright and all my Christmases are white (and not an off pink color!) ;) Thanks folks
  3. Thanks Orville - I have some and will be cannibalizing this weekend! ;)
  4. Jim + TheDucks - Thank you both. Yes PS is in the same enclosure as the pixie board I would consider both well mounted and protected. 100% will fuse the injections. A realization that a fuse there was a must, was what lead me to this question. A big "10-4" on breaking ONLY the +ve. I was following this link posted by somebody last year. Good info https://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Power_Injection I'm waiting for a few more connectors to come in the mail and then we'll see if this flies... or fries! ;)
  5. Hi Folks I think I've missed an important component in building my first controllers. I have the regulated 12V output from my power supply running directly to the input on the pixie boards. I was reading some stuff about power injection (next project) and it made me think about fuses on the input to the pixie board. Do I need to - or should I as a good practice - include an inline ATC fuse on the +ve input to the pixie controller. If so, what size fuse is needed? The Pixie Specs (page 46) say that Pixie 4 has a max draw of 16A and pixie 8 has a max draw of 32A, but
  6. Jim - could I ask where you get your 3 core zip cord from?
  7. JR/Jim Awesome advice and exactly what I was looking for. I am OK at soldering but am pretty sure my Fisher Price 2.5W soldering iron is not helping me. So I'm going to upgrade that tool and get stuck in. I have left over heat shrink from a a different project, pigtails (from building controllers) and silicone (from sealing pixels) so I'll use that method and get messy! Mr P - Saw them on amazon and am going to grab a pack of 10 - I think they can help me out "mid prop" where I'm trying to break things up for storage. Love this forum - you guys rock! :) :) Thank you.
  8. Thanks JR - how do you make the "solder to the lights" connection waterproof?
  9. I'm going to tag on to this thread as I'm pretty sure this is what I want to do: I want to split a pixel string of 50 into 2 strings of 25. I am looking for the connector (Ray Wu preferably for me right now but I'm not so far into this that it matters) but I don't want a pigtail... I want to solder my own.. and for it to be waterproof. I can't find the connectors anywhere, just the pigtails. Probably I'm searching for the wrong thing. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
  10. Circling back on this to close out incase anyone comes back to it. GE Silicone II for the win. Pixels sealed and working well. Appreciate the pointers everyone.
  11. Jim - good call The experiment will be Epoxy vs Everbrite. I will update!
  12. @PhilMassey - I have hundreds that are cracked maybe 1000+. Replacing all the stings is financially not something that is going to happen... I have to try to reseal them! I am thinking I can do better than hot glue... as they are not mounted or outside yet, if I can use something more liquid it will fill the cracks and I can wishfully dream that I can salvage something from this. Onward with the great FlexSeal vs Lacquer experiment of 2020!
  13. Folks I have a few thousand square pixels that have succumbed to the ravages of Texas summer storage. Each square pixel appears to consist of a plastic tray with the LED & circuit board sitting in it that is, during manufacture, filled with some kind of clear resin (I assume) that cures and makes them weather proof. In the heat of summer, this resin has cracked. The pixels are electronically fully functional (I was shocked - emotionally, not electrically ;) ) but they are clearly no longer weatherproof. Before they go out again this season they will need to be resealed
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