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About beeiilll

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  • Location
    Long Lake, NY
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  • Interests
    Rocketry, music, chilling with my animals
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LOR Software

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  1. More curious than anything but does anyone still use the EDM transmitter for shows? I still have my LCD (without RDS) that I started with back in 2008 and it is running great. Looks like it is around the same price as the Rangestar one (just looked quick so maybe not the one JR is using) and wanted to give my 2 cents on things. I used it the first year with just a homemade antenna but when I bought a good diploe antenna, it made things amazing for a long ways out. I could get clear signal out over 1/2 mile on the lowest setting. I see that a lot of folks use the little FM board th
  2. Merry Christmas from Long Lake, New York! A bit different Christmas this morning with 55 degrees (F) and pouring rain! But still the season and time we love!
  3. I can't seem to post any pictures o here so I have the whole post with photos over on the DIY Forum if you care to see it! The eBay link bulb is the best so far! http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?55598-LED-bulbs-for-blowmolds-and-inflatables With the exception of the incandescent bulb, all other bulbs are LED, C7-E12 Candelabra Base, Dimmable except for the last mold on the right which has an LED bulb that is NOT dimmable. From left to right the C7 bulbs are as follows: These are original smooth incandescent C7 bulb from 1000 bulbs
  4. Well I found a couple of sources so far for C7 bulbs. I ordered some from each one to see how they look and work as well as hold up. I got some from Christmas Light Source and from Christmas Lights, Etc.. Now I just have to wait and see how they work. I will be looking through AliExpress after the holidays since I need over 300 of these bulbs! Christmas Lights, Etc. was a bit cheaper than Light Source but still cost $1.19 per bulb so not cheap by any means. Just wanted to give these sources for anyone who is also looking for C7 bulbs in a pure white color and are dimmable, al
  5. On further digging, it looks like a 2 watt LED bulb would be close to a 25 watt incandescent one so that would be close to what I am looking for, please. I have over 170 blow molds and a dozen inflatables that I will eventually want to change over to LED so that is my big reason for trying to find some. Some of my molds have 3 C7 bulbs each so I can easily use over 300 of a C7 style LED bulb!
  6. Hey all,I am not on here much now since selling my house and not having much of a display (living on a 55MPH highway with blind spots near each side).I have a couple of inflatables up and a couple of blow molds at the house entrance this year. I wanted to see what people are using now for dimmable C7 candelabra base bulbs for their molds and inflatables? I bought a couple different ones but they are too large in diameter for the 1" hole in a blow mold or else too bright (approx. 60 watt) output! 😳 I just want to get a better light output for these things - not blind anyone! 😁So do any of you
  7. Thanks all! I should mention that I started with LOR back in 2008 so am familiar with it and sequencing. Just got away from it due to health, income, and other issues back in 2014 so am out of date from there on. I have been on this forum for years as well but have not kept up with it either sadly. I had to sell my house last month so may just sell off all my stuff but unsure at this moment. I just wanted to get "clear" on the newer adapters and network stuff for this. I built all my controllers except for 5, one from LOR in the beginning and then 4 from another person who ha
  8. I am behind on the newer Enhanced Network stuff as I have not run my show since 2014 but wanted to ask about this as well. I have 21 older controllers (Gen 1 and 2) for stuff and will probably end up selling them this year but I thought that I saw an answer somewhere in here about being able to run both a regular network as well as an enhanced network together so that it is possible to run both older controllers and newer ones together? I thought I read that you just would have to run 2 networks to do this? I "assume" that would mean running maybe one of the newer "red" adapters for the
  9. I use this to repair and modify my LED strings. Not sure if it will help but will post it for the FYI factor. This is part of a pdf that I found years back on modifying LED strings but the forum here won't let me post the pdf. LED Calculations 1. Peek Voltage - Peek voltage out of the full wave rectifier from 120VAC RMS equals 170V minus the voltage dropped by the diodes. This would result in about 167V. a. Rounded voltages, 120VAC *1.414 = 170V. b. 170V - 2.8V = 167V 2. LED Voltage and Current a. Voltage varies by manufacturer and color for LEDs. The most common current is
  10. Easiest "option" is to take somethink like a popscicle stick and make a "dummy" heat sink with say three holes in it to line up the triac with the holes in the heat sink. You can use the stick to make sure the triac in lined up to solder it in place and then assemble the heat sink after soldering is complete. I use this method myself and it works great. I actually made up a piece of aluminum with three holes in it to act as an alignment tool. I stick screws in the new triac and the ones on either side of it unless it is on the end just to hold the new triac in position while I solder it in
  11. The "easiest" way is to snip the leads and remove them one at a time. Then use a solder sucker or solder wick to remove all the remaining solder from the holes. A small dab of flux doesn't hurt but depends on your solder as well. I use 63/37 and have replaced probably a dozen triacs over the years with no problems. You want a nice clean tip on your iron with just a touch of solder on it to remove the leads. Your soldering iron will determine the amount of time it takes to remove and resolder connections. I use a solder station that is adjustable so I can use bigger tips or more heat
  12. HA - Ya, I said that there are those who live in better climates than many of us do who would be able to use hot glue without much trouble! I just wanted to throw out an observation on how some adhesives work in "less than desirable" conditions for people to make their own decisions on what to use. When I was doing my tests, I contacted several companies about using potting compound on electrical connections. I got some very favorable answers on it right up to the point where they said that it would only work "correctly" if applied under some pretty tight conditions (read in a facto
  13. I would like to throw in my experience with hot glue here just as a YMMV kind of thing! I ran tests on several different types of sealants back in 2012 through 2013 to see how they would work for sealing strips and electrical connections. I ran the testing outdoors for just under 9 months. I found that hot glue was the second worst thing to use as it failed within a couple of months into the testing (acetic silicone was the worst). It got brittle and/or just didn't grip well enough to prevent moisture entry into strips or connections. It also got too soft in the warmer days and wo
  14. Greetings! I remember you as poestenkillights from "back in the day!!! I too live in upstate NY (45 miles from Lake Placid) and remember you on the forums when I was also doing shows. I had to stop due to health and income issues back in 2014 myself and sadly now am having to sell my house so pretty much the shows are over for me (at least for now). I have been trying to get back into sequencing and understanding the different things with pixels for the last year till a month or so ago when it I just had to realize that I had to move and sell. I downloaded the new S5 software
  15. Nice collection there Orville! Very nice of you to share them with folks too. Great to be on a forum with folks like you.
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