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default last won the day on April 26 2020

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LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    5.4.0
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  1. Kevin, Why use Hardware Utility at all? If your not using it (HW Utility) to set a controller Comm Port there is really no need to use it to test lights. In fact, if I plug in my ENTTEC Open DMX USB adapter and open Hardware Utility, it tells me the port is already being used. Which is true, by ENTTEC Open DMX USB adapter. I only use HW Utility to set a Comm Port for LOR controllers. If you want to test if your universes and adapter work, create a simple sequence using any or all of the universes you want to test and test them live. Don't get too hung up on Hardware Utility. Just a thought. Alan...
  2. Kevin, I have an Enttec DMX USB Pro. I do not remember having to download any drivers. It does need to have a Comm Port Assigned. In my case it is Comm7. I do not remember how I set it to begin with, but changing an assigned Comm Port is not to difficult. First question, when you plug it into your USB, does it assign itself a Comm Port? as shown in the picture below in Device Manager? If so, will this Comm Port interfere with any other Controllers you have? If it will, then changing the Comm Port will sort that out. The next 2 pictures show how mine is seen and setup in the LOR Network Configuration. When plugged in it *should* show up in the DMX tabbed screen as some number in my case an "ALYX4SKC" Adapter, in the Protocol it shows up as Enttec DMX USB Pro (I assume yours would be something similar) This screen is viewed in the Simple screen. This screen is viewed in the Advanced screen. I don't have much experience with DMX Universes, but as others have said it should work with no problems. I use mine to control a DMX Laser, sequenced through S5. If you need to change the Comm Port for this adapter, let me know and I can walk you thru it. Hope this helps. Alan...
  3. Sandra, Here's a tutorial for using custom faces for Auto Singing Faces in Superstar. It's a complete walkthru of how to make the faces work. Give it a look and see if it helps. Alan...
  4. I haven't had a chance to try this version out, but in reading the What's New there are a lot to review. also happy to see an update. 😁 Thanks for that... Alan...
  5. Your picture doesn't show whether the "frills" left on the cut are on the bottom or top side of the cut. You also don't mention some key factors for a good cut. So this response is going to be generic, but should give you idea of things to check. You say your speed is 18,000 which should be fine. I use 20,000 (mainly because our router will go that fast) A 6mm bit is close to a 1/4" bit in which I use, so that should be ok also. Is this a new bit or recently sharpened bit? You mention it is a friends CNC, does he use this same bit to cut hardwood, alum? We cut alum and plastics and have bits for both. We never intermix them. Does the cutting blade area of the bit extend above and below the thickness of the material? Is this 4mm or 10mm Corex? (material) You also don't mention what your feedrate or chip load is. I can't remember of the top of head what I use for a feedrate, I will look it up in the next few days when I am back in the shop. You chipload rate helps determine your feed rate, and spindle speed, so that as much material as possible is moved away from the cutting area to prevent the material from melting. Are the frills melted? or just not cut all the way? Is the bit getting clogged up? i.e. too much material melting to the bit. How is the material attached to the table? glued? vaccuum, taped? etc. If the material is not solid on the table and can move, it can bounce giving a bad cut. If the frills are on the bottom, it could be a dull bit, the cutting depth may not be deep enough ( I usually go .002 - .003 into the sacrifice sheet of the table to ensure the cutting edge cuts a little below the bottom of the material) If the frills are on the top, again it could be a dull bit, and/or the cutting edge of the bit is not tall enough for the thickness of the material. This is more questions than answers but with limited info, it's really hard to say for sure. This should give you some food for thought. The video show a new bit, and yet is still leaves very little frills in the material that easily removed. Hope this helps. Alan...
  6. jr & weigh2fast4u, This is a video to show 2 different ways to deal with setting up an order for your props (Preview) and an order that you can set for your Sequences. I am heading out the door so it's a real quick attempt to show you what you can do and at least should point you in better direction. A word of warning about messing with Previews you already have done sequencing with. Be Careful NOT TO CHANGE NAMES OF PROPS. As I explain in the video, existing sequencing is alraedy attached to a prop with a certain name IF YOU change that name, chance are great S5 will will archive that prop and all the sequencing for it. Use a copy to test things out, always. The second method shown is probaly your best bet to get the order you want. I know this is incomplete, but I hope it helps. Alan...
  7. Don, I use one of these to turn on/off a fish pond fountain. This one is from Amazon, but Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart all carry them. Search Remote Control outlet. Remote Control Outlet Amazon has more selections. Hope this helps. Alan...
  8. Yes, only I created 1 arch that was skewed at the angle, then copied it 5 times Yes, exactly. By using your background picture, it allowed me to match up the perspective to the top of your fence line and using the existing dots to place the new bulbs on. Since S5 Preview Creator is not a drawing program, this was an alternative way to give you the look you are going for. Sure see below. I actually remade them this evening. I noticed in the gif, my starting pixels were on the right as opposed to yours being on the left. So now the .lpeprop matches your orignal prop desgn a little closer. I didn't add any network, channel numbers, etc. that's easy enough for you to do. I would advise loading the .lpeprop into a new preview and testing it out before adding to your current main preview. The Previews can be sensitive to prop changes. Since it is a .lpeprop file you can either group or select all and resize them to better fit your preview. Alan... Right Click, Save As jims 6 arches skewed.lpeprop
  9. Jim, From what I am understanding from your description is not so much just rotating the arches, but changing the perspective of how they look in S5. It is not something S5 is currently capable of doing, but there are other ways as shown below, but as Phil says, you would have to re-create the arches. In the S5 picture, I only created one arch and copied it 6 times, (so it really wasn't time consuming or hard to do) I lined them up close to the forced perspective picture. I also used Bulbs to create the arches as it the only way to get pixels placed at the angle they are. I left a lot out of this, if you are interested in how I made it into the S5 preview (shown) let me know and I can do a more detailed narrated video for you. I can probably do a Cad type drawing with dots so it would easier to line up the pixels for a cleaner end product. Food for thought. Alan...
  10. Here is a better example of the wiper gif. Making your own gif would make it easier to set the colors and pattern, speed etc. Right Click, Save as to try on your prop. Hope this helps. Alan...
  11. Here's a tut from a long time ago, still relevant for SS. It doesn't show how to do what you are asking for, but it may be close enough for you. In the video look at about the 8 second mark for the wipes go both left and right. I explained in the write up how to recreate these effects. See if this helps. As I was searching for that tutorial, I thought of another way it could be done. You could make a gif, that had the movements, bar thickness, colors, etc. and go that route. That would probably give you the most realistic look of a wiper blade. I made a quick sample just to test. The sample gif is flawed (it's late, I'm tired) but it shows proof of concept. Alan...
  12. Just a thought. Are you sure the Pixie16 is set to RGB? I sent a Pixie16 in for repair and I was given a new in it's place. I had my original set to RGB, and the new came to me GRB or something other than RGB. It was really confusing because all my colors were way off. It didn't make sense nothing in mysequences had changed. When I looked in hardware Editor at that Pixie16 I noticed it was set different. Might be worth a look. Alan...
  13. Craig, Is your Network Config accurate and up to date. IIRC if you are using the default Network Config (as in you have never exported your config to another name) a new install overwrites your existing config file and leaves it blank. Always a good idea to create your Network Config, then export as a new name so after upgrades it doesn't have to be recreated. This is a good way just to test a specific controller or controllers. Just a thought. Alan...
  14. I have usually found it to be F3 or F11 and even then keep tapping the F3, until it comes up or boots past the bios. (it boots past the F3 taps, then it's another F key) Can you record the screen with a phone, then playback in slow mo so you can see it? Just a thought. Alan...
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