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mpageler

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Everything posted by mpageler

  1. Lots of great people on the forum and fully expected ;that someone would reach out to you. But as you progress through this hobby and to be successful, you will have to roll up your sleeves and do the research and ask questions. Tthat way, you will b e better able to ask question, whether online or in person. Has to been sort of a joint efforts between people askin for and those providing info/help
  2. I run e1.31 pixel controlers and have not used any of the pxie series. But would assume they would be an easy 'plug and play" route for a newibe even if they might have some limiation. With 6 months to go, you would have to jump on the design/construction of a mega tree. Tons of past thread if you to a thread title search by "mega tree". One big initial decsion would b e using strips versus nodes. Search Youtub e for mega trees and you'll find examples of both styles. You said small mega tree...exactly what are your plans. BTW, would not be a cheap display element if considering 16 strips/strings. My iinitialL thought, might be getting a little late for 2018. Another job consumer would be sequen ccing but Pixel Editor in Ver4 would help streamline that. Depending on size of mega, purchasing mega tree sequences would be an option. If you still try for 2018, go with fewer sequences initially.
  3. Having the correct tools can simplify7 wiring and display building chores. While watching a Youtube on another one of my hobbies, I stumbled on these great flush cutting pliers. Flush Cutting Pliers They will cut zip ties off flush so you don't have that sharp stub left. Also easier to cut off ties when you can't get the nose of the plier under a tie. Just wired up a pixel controlor and was nice to get stripped wire, cut to a precise length for terminal insertions. If you do a Amazon search by "flush cutting", a bunch of them at all price ranges. $12 for the ones I bought was a no brainer. BTW, also consider getting a pair of automatic wire slippers, less than $20.
  4. If early in the hobby, you have to not try and do everything you want, right away. I stated with 3 year plan and now have added a 4th and 5th to the plan. To each sequencing workload/burden, co with fewer songs (1/2 dozen) and do them well. Really no need to change songs every year but to adds songs as your sequencing skill grow and/or you have more time. While it still takes time, you can build really nice sequences by copy/pasting from shared sequnces. All my Halloween and Christmas sequences were built this way, using anywhere from 2 to 5 shared sequences. As thing s calmed down and my sequencing skills grew, I've gone back and have done significant tweaking of sequence. So have a plan for new hardware/element for down the road but for this year, concentrate on sequence a handful of songs.
  5. I bought my 120v 3/8 rope light from 1000bulbs in 150ft spools. They also carry 120v LED rope but cut lengths are about 40 inches while 120v incand's were 20 inches or so. Theuy carry power cords that attach to the rope via pins and compression nuts. The cords are specifics for the rope light you buy (incand verus LED 120v.) Accessories like cords are listed with the specific rope lights. Cords are $5 or so. For 120v, you don't want to try and diy something (2 nails with attach cord). Using LOR AC controller and this rope, my faces preform perfectly. BTW, black "wire loom" is good to covering the excess rope that that you don't want visible because of the cut length. It's so much easier than using black tape. 4 seasons on 225 ft of rope and have only add to replace one segment of the 27 segments in 4 faces. And that 1 segment was midway through the first season. Instead of pulling the frams down, just zipped tie another segment over the burnt out one and switched out the power cord.
  6. Believe holidaysequen ces.com does custom sequences.
  7. Besides Halloweenskulls, believe Monsterguts is the only other dealers with 3axis skull kits. Did check with Frightprops late last year and they have plans for add 3axis products to their inventory, maybe this year. There are several hobbyist who have created controller boards for talking skulls and sell the PCG. They provide a list of parts for the boards that you need to source and then built the board yourself.
  8. I think $100-125 is nreasonable. At $150, I would would just prefer to get new ones off of LOR sales and get a full warrenty. 2nd hand exquipment, no matter how new, isn't cover by "transferable" warrenties.
  9. Just because you have one, doesn't mean you have to use it if it's going to be a PITA to use. . I've switch over to using Bud Industry enclosure like this one. Bud Enclosure Besides the extra room in this enclusre, I really like the extra depth and straight walls for drilling cable holes into. While you could cram 2 boards and a PS into a CG1500. getting to a boards terminials for examply to replace an output connector would be really tough
  10. Appreciate a copy James. mkpageler@comcast.net Mike
  11. You're right, 4 fold. I do want to keep it to 3 outlets so yo'u're 2nd option in building 2 matrix makes sense.
  12. Setup a vertical matrix prop in PE, 3 strings, 125 pixels with 3 folds. That creates a matrix 25 pixels high x 15 pixels wide. Going to use some pixel matrix netting which is 16 columns wide. Is there a way to create a matrix prop with 2 strings at 125 and 1 string at 150 (4 FOLDS)? With a universe per string, looks like you can edit the universe and starting channel but not the end channel. Guessing you could set this matrix up in SE but don't know of a way to import this into a prop, just starting out playing with PE. Appreciate the help...Mike
  13. Assume you're looking for AC controllers? They show up quite often in the "coffer shop' LOR forum. Just be patient and you will rfine some at good pricing, $100-125. BTW, you can also make offers to sellers.
  14. Take a look at boxes from Bud Industires. Seaching on Amazon would be quick way to see what sizes are available. I've been u8sing Bud's for my pixel controllers and powersupp;ies. Just wanted more room than the Cable Quards provide. I really like the Bud's because of deep straight sides and a double locking gasketed door. Hole drilling was so much easier than on the CG's I had been using Going with 2 boxes would also be an option.
  15. A number of past thread on filminmg displays. Do a thread tile search by "video camera" and you'll find a numbe rof them. Some of the thread talk about camera settings and such for better quality. I just got a video camera last fall and had to do some playing around with settings. One recommendation is to turn off auto-focus and go with a set focus distance. Besides using a "sences -- firework" mode on my Canon Vixia, the focus distance made quite a differerent in quality.
  16. Thanks James, I'd appreciate a copy mkpageler@comcast.net Mike
  17. There are several sources for HDPE netting/mesh for making pixel matrixes. HolidayCoro sells PixNode Net and Boscoyo, ChromaMesh. I used PixNode last year and recently buy some ChromaMesh. I though I would share a comparison of the two. 1) Material bulk and weight. I checked with both companyies on material thickness. Boscoyo said .041, HC .039 so basically insignificant. The connecting chanels (square sides) channels on PixNode is wider, maybe 25 percent more. If cutting up full 4' x 8' sheets into smaller pieces, it might matter to you. For PixNod, you can cut straight along the connecting cannels and still have plenty of "bulk" around the holes. Do this on ChromaMesh and the material to the side of the hole is pretty thin. May nbt matter for strenght but to be safe, I left a little bitof the connection tab to the side of each hole. 2) Sizes. HC sells 2 and 3" spacing in black and clear. Boscoyo has 1, 2, 3 and 4" in black and white. I understand that black is the most UV resistant over time. Bocoyo also sells 4' x4' 2" pieces. I go a 2' x 8' piece of 2" spacing but no longer see it available. It's just not a full sheet cut in half. There is a wide border on all four sides of the half sheet. 3) Cost, HC does charge a fair amount more than Boscoyo. Black 2"....$65 versus $50. Black 3" $49 verus $34. The 1/2 sheet 2" at Boscoy, $25. 4) Both brands hold pixels in place firmly. 5) Shipping. Besides the noraml added weight shipping cost for PixNode, HC also has a shipping surcharge which I assume is for "oversized" which in my opinion is a shiping scam. In the old day, use to see oversized charges a lot but basically is a thing of the past now. . Boscoyo does have online automated shipping and have to wait for a "shipping cost invoice" after you place your order. I don't like shipping cost supprises so ask for a shipping estimate before committing to buy. So based just on produce, I would go with PixNode because of the extra material but if cost is an iisue, go with Boscoyo. both will do what it's intended for. I love this stuff. Last year I made 4 pixel x 31 pixel tree trunk wraps. So quick to setupg and take down and easy to store, just rolled it . This year, making for tree turnk wraps and a 4ft x 6ft matrix. Since Boscoy had 2x8 pieces of 2" spacing, I got some just in case I wanted a scrolling sign down the road.
  18. Finally upgrade to V4 for PE, and didn't realize that you can not add a bunch of "dmx universe" channels....cool
  19. Vegomatic Download Vegomatics is a freeware program that allows you M to quickly adding a bunch of rgb channels. Several youtube videos on it's use. Check out the one by listertoourlights Unless I've missed it, have not seen that you can create channels via PE, save them to a sequence and then edit trought channels via SE?
  20. Not aware how PE would turn bulbs 1,3,5, etc., to red and bulbs 2,4,6, etc., to white? In SE, after adding the 50 rgb channels (via vegamatic maybe), you could turn channel 1 to red and channel 2 to white. Then copy both channels and do a "multiple paste" to 25 rows.
  21. Is this a project for yourself or someone else? Way more details than "pretty big job" is needed for any feedback.
  22. After battling runtime error, have a funtional V4 demo on a new display PC. Issue with both my licensed V3 Advance and the V4 demo. Added to run the LOR registry cleaner and another cleanup file. I cleared the V3 license info during this process. Assume when I complete the V4 Pro upgrade purchese, I will receive a new V4 license? To register this code, will the V3 license code need to be in the windows registry? Since this is an "upgrade", guessing yes. Mike
  23. Did some more research and it does appear it depends on the MW model, whether it has continuous on or temp controlled on/off . Took a look at some of the datasheets for model and didn't find any fan types listed. Might be for higher amp PS's, that it's better to relie on a continuous fan versus the chance of the temp sensor failing. BTw, found several youtube on using a fan speed controller to quiet larger output MW's. Thanks for the replies.
  24. Got a used MW SE-600-12. Hooked it up and found that the fans runs constantly, even with no lights connected. Pretty noisy sitting on the workbench but once in the enclosur, not very noticable. Have a number of tLRS-350-12 and the fan cycle on and off, based on the ouput load. Just curious if this is normal for SE serries or larger amp MW power supplies? BTW, started hobby withthe ;cheaper Chinese 30amp MW knokoffs and their fans never go on.
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