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About woodinvillejohn

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  1. Thanks for all of the great information from everyone. It is a big help. Hope everyone's lights burn bright for the rest of the season. John
  2. Thank you. Now I know what they are, but I do not fully understand them, even after glancing through the manual. (I'll reread it carefully tomorrow) I am using superstar to create a visualization sequence then pasting it into the actual sequence. Do I need to have these channels included if I copy from superstar visualization sequences? If I delete them and just paste from the Superstar visualization sequence I am able to paste the entire group at one time. If I have to paste 10 groups (2 ID's per controller) that is really going to slow down the programming and from what I can tell I am n
  3. This is a strange one I can't figure out. I just added 5 CB 100D pixel controllers into the show to control some bell wire frames. When I inserted them into the channel lineup each controller gained 7 additional channels below the 50 channels for each CCB string. The channel names were LR,MM,MS,CM,LI,CS,CC. They were assigned to each contoller ID right below the 50 channels for CCBs. The CB 100 D controllers were inserted into the lineup with 2 50 pixel strings and the controller set to dual normal with each controller having a separate ID for each string. When the test run I did was all m
  4. I figured this out after lots of head scratching. When I was adding the device into the channel lineup I missed clicking on the show advanced options box. Once I clicked on this it opened up some options that let me configure the controller correctly in dual normal mode.
  5. I recently added 5 CBB 100D RGB controllers which control 2 strands of Cosmic Color Bulbs per controller. I can get all the lights to light up on each controller which tells me I have probably configured the hardware correctly. The issue I am having is that the lights are doing very random things. I am using superstar to program these using Visualizer mode. Brian Bruderer helped me create the Visualizer template so I assume that part of the puzzle is correct. I figure I must be missing something when I either import the SS sequence into the Sequence editor, or when I copy The SUP file in
  6. jfuller8400 is spot on with his answer. It is probably something plugged into the controller and I would look at the tomato cages to start. When I need to narrow things down I will use the portable GFCI's available from Home depot or Amazon and plug it in between the channel plugs and extension cord leading to the prop. So i don't have to use 16 of them i try to narrow down the most likely channels I think might be tripping. It can be challenging because ground faults are accumulative, so many small faults on different channels could add up to enough to cause the controller GFCI to trip.
  7. I just looked at this again. My mistake i have Ver. 4.3.24 of the sequencer not Ver. 5. I thought I had upgraded last year, but guess i did not. I realized the mistake as soon as I tried to follow the steps yu guys laid out for me. So let me rephrase the question. In S4 is it possible to change the color order of pixels on the Pixcon16? Since I burn the show to the card using the G3 director unit is it possible to somehow change the RGB order in the burning process? To the best of my knowledge all I did was re-sequence several songs and add new ones. The RGB sequences were ma
  8. I'm hoping some of you smart users can figure this out. I was not able to resolve it using the help desk. Can't say I blame them as i am clueless how this happened and agree it shouldn't have. First I run my show off the G3 director unit. Most of my controllers are on the regular network. My 4 RGB smart pixel arches (Ray Wu 100 pixel ribbons) run off Aux. A. My show ran fine through Christmas. I decided to expand my show for next year and burned several additional songs onto a new SD card to power the Pixcon16 controller that I use for my Arches. Everything runs fine off the ol
  9. The boards are filled with recommendations for Froggy's Fog juice. Some of the mixtures out there claim they are denser and lay lower to the ground. I think Froggy's has 3 or 4 types. I haven't really compared the different ones so can't offer too much personal experience. I have always tried to stick with the denser types and been happy. If you think the LOR and xmas light forums have lots of info, you'll be amazed at how many halloween forums are out there. I think there is a link to one at www.frightprops.com. An internet search should lead you to lots more. I find some good in
  10. Dave76, An internet search will overwhelm you with info on fog chillers. Essentially they cool the fog so it lies low to the ground. I made a couple last year after the show got partially obscured by dense fog output. The fog machines are not waterproof. I elevate mine on a piece of wood so it sits above any water. In the past I have placed another piece of wood over them to form a roof, but only during heavy rains. I don't worry about light rain, as the case will shed some water. I don't leave them outside for long periods of time. I try to bring them in each night. I'm not su
  11. The video is great. It really answers a lot of questions. As far as fog machines go, the only issue I have had is one that whistled whenever it blew fog. It was so loud i had to return it, as it covered up the music. I have tried several. They all seem to work. The problem with all of them seems to be that no matter how well you clean them they all quit working after 1 or 2 seasons. Now I just find one that can put out the volume i need and figure on replacing it every other year. There is some delay between triggering the fog and when it comes out in the display so you need to
  12. T that looks identical to mine and the price is great! I put it in a waterproof box using a piece of wood to screw into
  13. T that looks identical to mine and the price is great!
  14. Dave, I just read Saxon's post again. For some reason it was missing when I responded the first time. That verifies it is Common and N/O for attaching the wires.
  15. Hi Dave, I did have great success in making this work. It is not hard but when I had not done it before i found it tough to find good information that made sense to a non tech guy like me. First. The cheapest source for the relay is Automationdirect.com. They sell a 120v relay Part#QM2N!-A 120 for $4.75. You will also need the mounting base part # SQMO8D which costs 3.25. The parts are cheap enough that I bought 3 sets and made 2 different controllers and have a spare set. That way the shipping is more reasonable. If you want to run your relay off a LOR controller you wan
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