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Donl1150

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Posts posted by Donl1150

  1. I have a Boscoyo singing bulb that has the typical 8 individual string face movements.   On the mid lip with 22 pixels, there is one that stays lit with faint blue continually, even when the computer is disconnected.  Whenever there is power to the pixie8, the one bulb is dimly lit. 
     

    Is it a bad pixel that I can just cut out and replace or could it be something else?

  2. Is one type of audio file better to use than another?  I know they should be saved as constant bit rate and that generates another question.  Is one bit rate better to save as than another?  I've had trouble in the past sequencing but I learned at that time the audio file was not CBR.  That solved my problem way back when.

  3. Pause was not the issue.  I did the uninstall/reinstall.  Everything seems to work now but my version is only v5.5.6.  It was 5.5.16 prior.  How do I update to the latest version I was licensed for?  Pro with Super Star add-on.

     

     

  4. My sequencer froze up so I re-booted the machine.  Now after what appears to be a proper loading of either a new musical sequence or an existing sequence, when I press the Play button, nothing happens.  I re-booted again and still nothing.

    Windows Media Player plays music properly so I don't think it is my machine.

    Any ideas?  Maybe delete the program and re-download?  I am running v5.5.16.

    Thanks

    Don

     

     

  5. I have 3 HC faces that are all of the black coro.  I would like to paint them with appropriate colors so they look more appealing in the daytime.  I have a couple of Gilbert Engineering faces that come pre-painted and they look great during the day.  What type of paint would work best to hold up to the elements?  I live in south Florida so it is basically sun, rain and humidity we deal with here. 

  6. Nope. I bought 500’ cat5 cable, ends, crimpers, tester, etc and built my own cable lengths custom fit for my layout.    Got all 4 pixel props working properly.  
    now have a night test run to see/adjust the brightness levels. 

    Then will work to get the neighbors hooked up via ELL’s and relocate some of my AC props into their yards.  
     
    All the while working on more sequences.  

  7. Thanks for all the tips you guys.  As suggested, I used my Cat5 tester and discovered I wired one of my cable ends wrong and that was screwing up the sequence on the last singing face on the line.  I have corrected that and now everything is working properly as displayed in the Preview.

    JR, I really do appreciate the help you have given me as I go along my Pixel journey.  However, I posted this issue on the forum since I felt I was being a bother to you.  Plus, getting another set of eyes on the problem is always a benefit......at least in MHO.

    Don

  8. The Ducks....

    1. I don't know what you mean by "only the LAST in the chain has the termination (JP4)".  What is JP4?
    2. I think I am fine on ID's per pixie
    3.  I should have mentioned that I have laced the cat cable through a PVC pipe that also contains AC cables for incan lights.  I'll disconnect that and test with a cable NOT passing through the pipe.
    4.   I don't know what you mean by "Why did you not pass 1-2,7-8 thru each controller".
    5.   As far as 'scrambled", I mean that the face seems to be lighting up pixels at random, not at all looking like the sequence is telling it what to do.

     

    kc666.....

    1.  Not sure what is meant by "on the last controller, tie pins 1 & 2 together".  Although I am not concerned with anyone tampering with the display.

     

    Thanks guys!

     

     

  9. I am doing field testing of my setup.  So far I have set up 2 singing faces, each driven by a Pixie 8 along with 2 small "mega" trees driven by a Pixie 16.  I have daisy chained the 3 units and when I play a sequence, one face and the mega trees look great, just as the Preview shows, but the other singing face has "garbled" pixels.  The Preview shows it running properly but in reality it is nowhere near correct.

    So my first question is:

    1. Do the units have to be chained in the sequential ID order or can they be in any order as long as you get all three?

    When I run the HU for the entire setup, it only picks up the 2 singing faces and not the mega trees.  Yet, as stated above, the mega trees are running properly.  When I run the HU separately for each of the 3 units, it picks up each one properly and they test properly.

    My next question is this:

    1.  Is it possible I have signal loss (or interference) due to the number of cat 5 connectors I have on the entire setup?  For ease of installation, I wound up with about 5 or 6 female - female connectors in order to get the cable from controller 1 to controller 2.  Then I have one more female - female connector in the line from controller 2 to controller 3 (the one that is acting up).

    Or is it possible my sequence has mis-identified the ports for that singing face?

    Thoughts?

    Don

     

     

  10. 13 hours ago, k6ccc said:

    That's a PERFECT reason to go with separate controllers.  HOWEVER, you do realize that after they get involved, they are going to want to do more - and you wont have any channels available.  Just food for thought.

     

    Never looked at it like that Jim.  Thanks.  That is good point.  It will be better to use the 16 channel controller with 8 channels on the face leaving 8 unused since they will most likely say "can we add a few more things along with the face?".  Get another person hooked on the hobby!

    • Like 1
  11. I currently have 3 singing AC faces, each of which have 8 separate circuits.  In past years, I have used two CTB16PC controllers to run them.   On one controller, channels 1-8 controlled one face and channels 9-16 controlled the other face.  The second controller uses channels 1-8 for a face and channels 9-16 for miscellaneous other items in the area.

    This method worked well over the years but because they are 16 channel controllers, I typically have had the faces near each other to minimize the length of extension cords needed.  This year I want to spread the faces out further and would like to have an 8 channel controller dedicated for each face.  Will this circuit board (CTB08Dg3) the trick for me?   I have assembled all of my controllers in the past but always used the 16 channel type.  

    Thanks

    Don

  12. I am totally new to the pixel world but learning.  This year I will be adding two singing RGB faces and two 4' tall "mega" RGB trees to my existing AC channel display.  I have everything wired up, the props built and am finalizing my song list.  I have about a dozen songs in total with about 1/2 of them sequenced and ready to go.  I'll have the other 1/2 ready in a couple of weeks.

    I have tested everything in the garage but not at night and certainly haven't put them up outside yet, although it won't take much to do that.  Power is nearby and the ethernet cable(s) are already neatly hidden in the soffit area and I also have pulled cables through buried pipe in the yard to various areas where the props will be.  All I have to do is put the props in the general area, make the final connections and power up.

    What I don't know is how bright (or dim) things will look at night.  I have not made any brightness adjustments in the sequences so all are at 100%.  I have read various posts and it seems like I should plan on dimming the RGB's to somewhere under 50%.  Is it simply a trial and error method to set the best intensity level or is there a more structured approach to it?

     

     

  13. So I am at the point of planning the new layout in the yard.  I live in Florida in a new home and the walls are all concrete block.  In past years, my show consisted only of AC channels and my Easy Light Linkers worked just fine.  This year I am adding 2 mini pixel tress and 2 GE pixel singing faces so I have to hardwire back to the computer for the AUX channel.

    Obviously way is to simply drill a hole through the block wall and feed the cable through.  Probably a remote area and then run the cable along the soffit to the area involved.  Searching the internet, I came across this:

    https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/accessories/apd/a9621975?gacd=9646510-1068-5763017-266743642-0&dgc=st&&msclkid=9f767e172cc41ee031c71f2c4d29eb36&gclid=9f767e172cc41ee031c71f2c4d29eb36&gclsrc=3p.ds&nclid=ke0hM3Qpr1OKzpctCjcNsrwiDbOfS7bxtLDCT0VqMKBl6c8eZLgUsdPsqXQUiZCv

    A wireless unit capable of speeds of 1000 Mbps. 

     

    Is this a possible solution and has anyone had experience with high speed wireless?

     

     

  14. UPDATE 9/9/21

    I double checked my wiring and DID discover two mistakes.  1) One string was wired with a plug on both ends of the 50 pixels and 2) One string had the ground and power wires reversed.  All others were wired properly.

    Somewhere along the line in my testing, I would up blowing 4 of the 16 fuses.  I am having GREAT difficulty finding these 4A fuses locally but I believe I finally found some at both Grainger & Amazon.  I ordered a bunch from each and should arrive in a few days.

    I am hoping I have not blown out any circuits on the board but if I have, does LOR have the ability to repair a board or would I have to order a new one?

  15. I have my 2 mega trees put together and have begun testing them.  They are each 8 strings of 50 folded in half to create 2 16 string trees - about 4' tall.  I guess I will call these Mini Trees.

    I am using a Pixie 16 that has 2 power supplies, one for each bank of 8.  One side apparently blew 3 fuses and the other side blew one.  They are all 4A spade type fuses.

    I tested them one port at a time so it seems odd that 4 would pop a fuse.  I was using a single color but it was at 100%.  So I have a couple of questions:

    1. Where is a good source for replacement blade fuses?
    2. Do I need to stay with 4A or could I go a bit higher.....say 5A or 7.5A?
    3. What would cause them to pop like that?  I checked all the connections and they are tight.

     

    Thanks

  16. Thank for responding Aubrey.  Although I couldn't find the series of ME videos you reference, I think I have figured out the basics of how the ME generator works.  I have finished adding my two new pixel trees to an existing sequence and used the generator to incorporate them into the song.  The result looks pretty darn good.  By the time I do the same for my remaining 10 sequences, I should become fairly proficient (I hope) using ME and pixels in general.  I think my show this year will be a nice step up from last year.

    I hope to attend one of your on-line sessions one of these days when I find the time.  Thx.

  17. So I think if I consider the mega tree as a matrix - just angled at the top - I need to learn about how matrixes are sequenced.  The L Harmony videos talking about Motion Effect rows are nice but she goes quite fast and more at a 'high level' of where things are and what they do.  I am probably searching for something that isn't out there.  If I could watch someone click step-by-step to create say.....a spinning effect on the tree........I would learn it much quicker.  Looks like the old 'trial & error' method for me.  Good thing it is still August!

  18. Thanks Jim.  Logic told me it was probably right and you've confirmed. 

    So now I have imported into my preview and I see the one line for the prop, totally crosshatched.  I left click on the item and "Enable Channel Level on Pixel Prop".  This creates a single row for each of the 400 nodes. (25 rows x 16 columns).  And then those can be further opened up to show the RGB channels creating 1200 rows.

    I know how to create Groups and sequence each individual color/node etc.  I think I know how to proceed to manually sequence individual nodes for a song but certainly there must be a better, easier way.  I have searched for some training videos but the Luminous Harmony ones don't seem to have one unless I missed it.  Any guidance at this point is much appreciated.

  19. I am trying to create my first mega tree prop in S5.  It will be a small tree - 4 ft tall.  I want it to be 360 degrees and I plan on using 8 strings of 50 pixels each.  At 2” spacing, it works out perfectly to have each string up and down creating two legs of 25 pixels each.

    I am confused by the selections I need to make in the Prop Definition window.  Here is what I have selected, is this correct?

    Left Column:

         - RGB pixels, no motion effects

    Center Column:

         - Tree 360 wedges

         - Actual # strings = 8

         - Nodes per string = 50

         - Folds in each string = 1

         - Truncate cone % = 0

         - Tilt forward = 0

         - Motion effect start = 0

         - Quarters = 4

    Right Column

         - Select AUX network

         - Insert correct Unit ID and the remainder auto-number

    Then when I import it to my preview I can begin sequencing with it?

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