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  1. Here's the sequence that matches the video. I'm still using LOR v2. https://www.dropbox.com/s/atw1k3jyqtau7rq/brossOwlCity-LightOfChristmas-64-12-18-2015a.zip?dl=0
  2. Merry Christmas: Free sequence. It needs some work, especially at the end. v2 has a glitch where sometimes the syncing gets out of whack toward the end of a longer song. My wife begged for this one after I had set everything up already. I ended up doing it in about 2 hours using the tapper wizard, LOL. The dropbox link is the zip file of the lms file. I attached the file, as well. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ehzx5b6wcazadc/bross-Carmen-Celebrating-Jesus-64-12-19-2015a.zip?dl=0 bross-Carmen-Celebrating-Jesus-64-12-19-2015a.zip
  3. I realized I posted the wrong youtube link for the sequence dropbox link I shared. The sequence was improved in 2014. The video is not the greatest. I was learning how to use my Canon EOS 70D, but you'll get the idea.
  4. I didn't realize I haven't been getting notifications from this thread. I shared a link to the Capital Kings Carol of the Bells sequence. It's a little rough, but should be enough to get you started. My apologies for not replying sooner. https://www.dropbox.com/s/dzfhhzsam07ytuu/BlairRossCapitalKingsCarolOfTheBellsSequence.zip?dl=0 If you are so inclined, I would appreciate it if you would consider a gift to https://www.uniongospelmission.org/donate/ this Christmas season.
  5. I have a sequence, as well. If you know how to copy or edit channels from one sequence to another and you like the timing by watching this video, let me know and I'll shoot it your way. By the way, I don't work for the Union Gospel Mission, but they do a fantastic job helping people get their lives back. If I send you the sequence, a donation of any amount is not required, of course, but I'd like to encourage you to strongly consider it. :-)
  6. DevMike, Thank you so much for the detailed post. I changed the input channels to Normally Closed using the LOR hardware utility and that did the trick. I was fooled into thinking the PIR Motion Sensor output was normally open because while testing the LED light, the light would be out unless motion was detected. That, I do not understand, but it is working now. Now I can use LOR as a security system during the off season. :-) Blair
  7. I'm sure folks reading this that understand low voltage electronics are laughing, but I'm too stubborn to care. I bought a breadboard and a LED that includes at 680 ohm resister. I have a 9v transistor battery hooked up to the breadboard, along with the PIR motion sensor, and LED so that when I'm still the LED goes out and when I move, the LED lights up, as expected. The output of the motion sensor is connected to the positive wire of the LED and the negative wire is connected to the ground of the breadboard along with the ground of the motion sensor and the battery. When I hook up the input pup ground to the breadboard and then as soon as I connect a channel from the inputpup to the output of the motion sensor, the input is "tripped" and the corresponding sequence is played. The LED is now light constantly and the sequence plays over and over and over. If I hook up the positive wire of the LED to the inputpup channel wire and the ground wire to the inputpup ground wire, the light stays lit constantly and the sequence plays over and over. I can't figure out how to open the circuit when using the motion sensor when the motion sensor is not sensing motion. I'm guessing I need some electronics part between the motion sensor OUTPUT and the inputpup channel or something. If the above makes sense at all, can someone help? Has anyone used a PIR motion sensor with the inputpup? If so, how did you hook it up? Thank you. PS - I think I'm needing a single pole single throw relay switch so that the circuit is open until the motion detector "powers" the relay to close the circuit. ???
  8. I don't own a multimeter. Its time to go get one. The PIR has a 3.3v-5v pin, output (up to 3.3v it seems), and GND pin. I'm positive it's not going to put out more than 5v as that's the maximum that will be going to the PIR unless I make a dumb mistake. I've downloaded several schematics from various sites and have read several instructables and have watched videos on the PIR, but they ALL either connect to an Arduino or to a device (LED, etc.) that is expecting power. Personally, I think the inputpup documentation is lacking. Figuring out how to add a dumb switch is very simple. But a newbie like me adding a sensor requires more details about the inputpup channels, I think. So, in your case, though, you just hook up the output and GND from your sensors directly to the channel and inputpup GND and you're good? No rush on these questions, by the way. I'm just in the learning stage. There's no deadline or urgency. I'm having fun and I certainly don't want to be a pain. I'm hoping your answers will help another hobby enthusiast in the future. :-)
  9. I think that does answer my question. So I can wire the OUT pin on the PIR motion sensor to one of the inputpup channels and the ground from the sensor to the inputpup ground, power everything on, wait 30-60 seconds for the motion sensor to restart, then test. I don't have to worry about the 3v or so coming from the sensor blowing the pup.
  10. I received the PIR motion sensor. The output voltage is about 3v. I don't see any information regarding the 8 ports on the inputpup being able to handle voltage. So, how can I hook up the motion sensor to the inputpup? I've searched the internet and keep seeing pages on how to connect them to Adruinos and LEDs, which need the voltage. I think I need a relay, but I'm not sure. I don't know if I need a resistor. I'm hopelessly lost. It's a good thing this is all low voltage or I'd probably fry something. Speaking of, I'm getting hungry...
  11. Thank you very much, Jim. I think I see what was throwing me off. The PIR-MD-1 schematic shows the +9vdc wire and I thought it would be going back to the inputpup, not from the inputpup, a controller, or some other source. I'm going to start toying with that unit and the Single Beam Photoelectric Detector Active IR Sensor. Motion detection seems like flakey technology. I have security lights on my garage and we use indoor motion detection switches for two hallways. They work okay, but using a beam means I can place it at a height the cats, dogs, squirrels, skunks, etc. are less likely to trip it. From Spring to Fall we get a lot of car prowlers in the neighborhood breaking windows for quarters, so I'm hoping I can either catch someone in the act or at least give them a little scare....stay tuned. I will post more questions if I run into a snag, but you did a great job and I really appreciate it. I love that you are really taking advantage of your investment year round. The one thing I'm very impressed with is that the LOR hardware "just works". Thank you very much. Take care.
  12. I just installed my new inputpup in test mode. I have no switches yet. To test I touch one of the 8 wires inserted into a channel to the ground wire. It wirks fine. I know almost nothing about electronics so Im lost regarding adding any kind of motion detection or other "sensors" as they all seem to be engineered to allow power to a light or device. It seems a SPST simply closes a circuit like me touching those wires together. Is that what the security ir motion detector LOR sells does or is it also outputting volts? Can someone explain how I would wire that motion detector to the inputpup without blowing up the pup?
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