canadianchristmas

Hi everyone. I was planning to get back into light shows this year after a few years off with a bigger and better show. However my life and priorities have changed so I will be selling everything. I need to down size and just don't have the space or the energy to keep doing this. My last real show was in 2016, this video should give you an idea of some of what my display looked like: For sale: 30x - WS2811 RGB strips - 30 led per meter white pcb 12v (New and unused from December 2019) | $16 CAD each or $300 CAD for all. 2x - Alphapix 4 (gen 1) controllers (From 2015) | $55 CAD each 1x - Sandevices E6804 (From 2019, tested but never used in a display.) | $70 CAD 1x 16 channel LOR controller - Planet Christmas version Gen 2 With lamp cord and vampire plugs (From 2011 or 2012) | $110 CAD 1x Holiday Coro monster face with white incans (From 2015) | $50 CAD 2x Raspberry Pi B+ boards (from 2015) | $10 CAD each There are also: - PVC frames that can be cut and modified to fit a new layout. - 12ft tall projection screen. - Various floodlights, and 120v led and incandescent strings. - several 12v and one 5v power-supplies. - Various WS2811 strips used in display. - And a lot of other stuff not cataloged here... None of the above has a fixed price. Just to be clear: All prices are in CAD, not USD. If someone local wants everything I will sell my entire display for $1300 CAD I will start posting pictures over the next day. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask me anything. I'm also open to negotiations. Thanks for reading. Take care.

Oh cool! thanks.. Can I still do that though if it's registered to a dead computer? The license was on a computer that died several years ago and I no longer have.. I never thought about the HU at the time.. If I can just use my old license key though that would be good.. Should I contact support if its registered on a dead machine? I guess I'll give it a shot later today, and if it fails I'll open a ticket. Thanks!

I used to use that LOR version, until 2015 when I switched to Xlights. Now my whole show for 2020 will be running on a MA2 and madrix, all time coded in midi. I no longer know my old advanced license key.. (As I said I no longer have an active license). However I do still know the email address that was associated with the license. It just says that in my profile because thats what it was years ago and I haven't been here in 3 years. When I logged in today, the forum forced me to keep that information there, even though I know it's not currently accurate. Sorry for any confusion. I hope that clears things up.. Thanks for your time. I forgot how fast these forums could be.. LOR still has an awesome support network!

Thats not too good... Putting a limit on the first 2 Id's in the HU seems petty.. I understand the limit for the sequencer and the scheduler, but the hardware utility?? Really... I wanted to have other things on that universe that come before.. Thats really it. I could work around it, but that would mean moving other channels around at the expense of the controller, or making an entire other universe just for this one box. It can be done but I don't really want to have to work around things, I want things to work with me whenever possible to make my life simpler. Maybe I am just subconsciously looking for a reason to move on from LOR.. I don't really know. Although this show is next year so I am most-likely either going to sell this controller, and replace it with something else, or stick it on its own universe.. Again thanks for all the help everyone!

I looked in the comparison software list on the LOR site and according to it, the demo does not have a functional HU. http://www1.lightorama.com/showtime-sequencing-suite/#levels (under utility programs). However I will still try this later today when I get the chance. Thank you.

Ah.. That sucks I have one of the planet christmas models without the dip switches.. Is there any hardware utility type of program available for free? I'm sorry if I'm sounding stingy... But it's just not really worth the money in my opinion to have to spend $40 USD just to buy software to assign a single controller a new ID. Anyway, Thank you so much for the quick response!

Hi everyone, Its been a long time since I've been on here and have taken a 3 year break from light shows but I am planning on coming back for 2020.. So my question is can I change a LOR controller ID without using the LOR software suite? Is there a standalone program available to change just the controller ID? I don't need any test utilities or anything fancy, just something to change the ID. I have one V2 LOR controller, that I've been running in DMX mode since 2015, and I do not use any LOR related software at this point.. So I don't have a current or even active license for the sequencer or more importantly the hardware utility. I still have a USB RS485 LOR dongle so the hardware is there. If there is anyway to do this that would be great. Thank you so much for any help in advance, and Merry Christmas!

Awesome work! I actually watched it twice because this was seriously one of the best christmas shows I have seen so far... I think the arches gave your display more dimension and made everything look larger then your previous years. What did you program the pixels with SE, PE, XL? I think for 2017 you should focus on outlining the whole house in RGB pixels, and move the tree away from the house (because you have windows behind the tree). Then upgrade the tree and yard elements to pixels in future years. Once again good job!

I did not use LOR yet... I was playing with the SE at the time but did not want to spend the money yet. My 2011 show was 8 channels, it was run off a kit-74 relay board in vixen 2 the relay board ran off the computers parallel printer port so I ran a super old desktop with windows xp that had a printer port. If you watch the video I linked in my above post you can hear the clicks of the mechanical relays if you listen carefully . I upgraded to LOR and jumped into pixels in 2012 and then stopped using LOR software and switched over to xlights in 2014 because I was having lag issues with LOR at the time. Sorry for hijacking the thread did not mean too! But that is my history with synchronized lighting,,,

Looks good! I did the same thing as you in 2011, I put my first show together in a week with a $100 budget... What you do in year 2 will be awesome!

Richard Holdman was hired by that family to do a christmas light show on their home.

Wow on the forum at the same time! I used final cut pro X

Hi, First off I would recomend bringing the projector in at night for the possibility of the cold damaging the bulb and moisture. I think you will be fine for the temperature as 40 below does not seem too bad. Were I am we can get -20 celsius (Im not sure what that is in fahrenheit). If you choose to leave the projector out at night I recommend locking the enclosure down with a steal cable and putting sand bags, cinder blocks, or large containers of water in the bottem to weigh it down, against strong winds and vandalism. I would also recomend a bigger fan because projectors get HOT! Your projector could get damaged or the bulb could break or burn out from the heat. Remember the heat it produces can be just as bad as the cold. I would recomend a fan like THIS then run a pice of dryer hose/duct with mesh or netting on the end to keep bugs out, Also the duct will help keep snow and rain out of the enclosure. Remember to also keep the duct slightly off the ground if you do this. Another tip is to keep your projector enclosure heated if you leave the projector outside over night I would recommend keeping it at 10 degrees C. To heat your enclosure wire a simple thermostat to a small space heater or baseboard heater. I recomend using a small baseboard heater and thermostat. Or if you really wanted to go cheap a reptile heat lamp and a thermostat to turn the lamp on and off, however I prefer a small oil heater (like the baseboard heater) the most. And the very last and important thing to mention with heating and cooling the projector is to shut the heater off when the projector is running and to shut the fan off an hour or two after the projector has been turned off just to let any excess heat out. One more thing that is VERY important is to find a non-reflective piece of plexiglass for the window in your enclosure. The window is what the projector will project through and if it reflects you won't get very much brightness out of your projector. So find a good piece of non-reflective plexiglass! Hopefully all this info helps, I use flat screen tv's and projectors in my show so a lot of this info is off my own experiences. My final suggestion is to take a look at my show in my signature! Good luck!!!

Very nice! Such a cool display and I love the detail put into the props! What did you use for video playback with two displays? I use FPP.

Is there a way I can block/ignore the entire "sequence sharing" sub forum? Or is it only for individual posts?