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tboerjan

Anyone else trying out the new Firefly units?

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Do people really use the phone line connection? IE, unshielded, untwisted lines in an RS485 network?

Yeesh, these serial lines are right next to 110v lines carrying load. Sine-switched loads at that (noisy) We need as much noise rejection as possible, not less.

Cat5e has decent noise rejection for a low speed serial network. PHONE LINES surely do not. I wish LOR had never offered the phone jacks as a possibility. Twisted pair cables (CatX) is really cheap especially if you put your own terminators on it.

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zman wrote:

Paul Roberson wrote:
thebaronn wrote:
How is that for response time!!!
Paul beat me but I have a handycap.
I'm using a phone and it is slow!!
More bars more places my a$$!!!
And I'm in line for space mountain, Woohoo!!!!!

Is your butt posting again????

LMFAO and I guess Paul was too, literally.


POS iPhone!!!!

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Yes, I had some *pixel* issues that were fixed with a soldering iron in a matter of minutes.   Once that was resolved, I got about 40 days of error free use out of them.



My network was simple. 10, 1602W LOR controllers grouped together and then the 5 firefly units.

I wasn't lucky like Gary. After all the firmware updates,weatherproofing and resoldering (funny, i could have sworn i didnt buy a "DIY kit") they worked like clockwork for the first hour of every show. And then decided to do their own thing. I tried grouping the FF in the first part of the network and in the 2nd and mix them, same result. And when it rained (we don't get a lot of rain so it's easy to tell) some strings would just stay on!!! WTF!!
But I figured it out: ghost in the machine
And at the end of the season the best string performance wise lost a red pixel. Great!
So now I am patiently waiting for others to figure out D-lights problems. Since I am not on the payroll!!!!

And zman: I can't read your whole pm on my phone so I will check it out when I get home Sunday.

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I'm convinced you are "technologically cursed". :D

For next season you're going to have to resort to using candles in luminaries! No more electricity for you!

Heh.

thebaronn wrote:

Yes, I had some *pixel* issues that were fixed with a soldering iron in a matter of minutes. Once that was resolved, I got about 40 days of error free use out of them.



My network was simple. 10, 1602W LOR controllers grouped together and then the 5 firefly units.

I wasn't lucky like Gary. After all the firmware updates,weatherproofing and resoldering (funny, i could have sworn i didnt buy a "DIY kit") they worked like clockwork for the first hour of every show. And then decided to do their own thing. I tried grouping the FF in the first part of the network and in the 2nd and mix them, same result. And when it rained (we don't get a lot of rain so it's easy to tell) some strings would just stay on!!! WTF!!
But I figured it out: ghost in the machine
And at the end of the season the best string performance wise lost a red pixel. Great!
So now I am patiently waiting for others to figure out D-lights problems. Since I am not on the payroll!!!!

And zman: I can't read your whole pm on my phone so I will check it out when I get home Sunday.

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Seriously? Are u a D-light shill?? How much they pay you?
LOL!!!!
I kill myself!!!!

Well me, I'm a masochist, that can be the only reason I'm rolling out these FF strings for an Easter display!

And btw, after you 40 days/40 nights comment, (maybe u are our FF savior?) could you post a photo pointing where exactly you soldered? Maybe I missed a spot in my do it yourself firefly kit!

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Unscrew the pixel cover. Under the silicone you will see where the wires attach to the pixel circuit board. There are four wires on each side. The two larger ones are power, the smaller ones, data.

You have to remove the silicone so you can get to the solder joint, tweezers do this easily. I used a 30 watt iron to redo both the power and data wire joints. If you use too small of iron, you'll have problems getting a good solder joint on the bigger wires.

Once it's done, use some silicone like Lexel and fill back in where you removed the sealant.

The pixel I had a problem with was #12. It would change colors, stick on in red or blue, eventually change to all white and then pixels past it would do wierd stuff too.

Fixing that single pixel fixed the entire string.

And lastly no, I don't work for D-light or have any affiliation with them other than having bought products from them. I've always been of the mentality that if something is acting up or broken and is easily fixable, I'd rather just fix it myself and get on with life. :D

Yes, I would rather they didn't come from the factory with these issues, but I understand how things like this happen. Heck, I probably helped the problem along on mine because I was pulling too tightly on the wires while attaching it to my arches.

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thanks Gary
For some reason I only remember 3.....(and I probably did use too small an iron)

Do you think I should redo the whole strand just to be safe?
It would be great if this works.
I will have to do this in the middle of the night, if my wife sees me fixing something that I paid $200 for I will have to hear how my time is worth too much to fixing others $&!@.....and I could be spending that time with the new babies
LOL! That is probably the pg-13 version!

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My suspicions are that wherever these were assembled in the first place, they used too small of an iron to do the wiring attachments, thus the cold joints on the power lines. The power lines, when under load, start having supply issues which seem to be exaggerated when there's a lot of moisture in the air, and noise is generated on the power lines which screws up the digital signal between pixels.

I really don't think you need to do the whole strand. If you're seeing the same effect that others are, ie one pixel flakes and then pixels *past* it start to act up, well it's the first one acting up that's the issue. (the first one counting from the controller. Re-do all eight solder joints inside the first pixel acting up and you should see the others behaving as well. Any pixel that would come on in red, blue or green and just stay on when it shouldn't, those are ones that have the solder joint issue. If they went white, that is just the next stage of noise confusing the pixel.

When you connected them, the small white block is closest to the controller right? That's the signal booster and it has to be first.

I am now up to seven Fireflies for my 2009 display. If that's any indication of my faith in em. :D They need to re-do the firmware in the controllers though, I won't be able to afford 48 channels per string much longer at the rate I'm adding them.



thebaronn wrote:

thanks Gary
For some reason I only remember 3.....(and I probably did use too small an iron)

Do you think I should redo the whole strand just to be safe?
It would be great if this works.
I will have to do this in the middle of the night, if my wife sees me fixing something that I paid $200 for I will have to hear how my time is worth too much to fixing others $&!@.....and I could be spending that time with the new babies
LOL! That is probably the pg-13 version!

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GaryMartin wrote:

Re-do all eight solder joints inside the first pixel acting up and you should see the others behaving as well.


May I also suggest that the four wires coming off the last good element might be a suspect for a cold solder joint?

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That's entirely possible, but it's been my experience that the first one acting up is always where the issue is.


Dennis Cherry wrote:

GaryMartin wrote:
Re-do all eight solder joints inside the first pixel acting up and you should see the others behaving as well.


May I also suggest that the four wires coming off the last good element might be a suspect for a cold solder joint?

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I wonder if a 'cold solder' could be 'ok' or cause problems based on the mounting.

What I am getting at is... I have my v3 string and a v2 string mounted on arches. I only put one zip tie in the center between each pixel. I also have a v1 and v2 string just draped on the railing of the deck. During the season I had all my pixel strings mounted on arches with a zip tie on each side of each pixel.

Maybe with a zip tie on both sides of each pixel may have put enough stress on the bad connections and they would fail. All 4 of my FF units has ran perfectly rain or shine during my testing for the past 3 weeks or so.

I believe today I am going to drag my other 2 arches out and get all 4 strings zip tied to the arches with a zip tie on both sides of each pixel.


I really want to duplicate the 'flickering' and fix it.

I don't have the confidence to buy any more just yet.:D

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Yep, that's exactly what I did when I made my arches, stretched the things as tight as I could and put a zip tie on each side of each pixel. So I think I probably over stressed the wires on it myself.

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When we get done, we'll have either a owner's or a DIYer's manual. I am amazed at the number of posts and views this topic has generated. And the resourcfulness of the people.

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tboerjan wrote:

When we get done, we'll have either a owner's or a DIYer's manual.  I am amazed at the number of posts and views this topic has generated.  And the resourcfulness of the people. 


U should be proud, if it wasn't for you starting this, who knows??? I know I wouldn't have posted a topic here, i would still be on that sorry excuse for a board called D-light

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Does everyone who ordered a Firefly get the V3 string? I have the V2 rightnow, I have had some flickering problems. My first one had cold solder problems.

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lonewolvie wrote:

Does everyone who ordered a Firefly get the V3 string? I have the V2 rightnow, I have had some flickering problems. My first one had cold solder problems.

I think the V3 strings are still in the testing phase right now. I have only 1 V3 string, and since I have started testing I have seen no flickering out of it. BUT, I have also not seen any flickering out of the v1 or v2 strings either during this round of testing.

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Ok, I'm lazy.

Who wrapped their firefly arches spirally?

I need pictures! LOL!

I want to use 2 FF per arch and wrap them so there are 32 pixels per 10 ft strand and I think that spirally is the only way to go.

I guess I could bunch them up, but I think that make look a little lame with the extra ribbon all over the place

So it looks like this:


Attached files 172459=9865-FFDBL.jpg

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Baronn, Baronn, Baronn...... I wrapped mine spirally way back early in this thread. See my post and pic here:

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/17480-11.html

The only difference would be that you double the density by adding your second string in between the wraps of the first. An issue you may have is if you can make a "Y" adaptor to have 2 pixels come on at the same time since the controller can only address 16 pixels right now. They haven't updated the firmware to control 32 when you connect them end to end yet have they? If not then you would need to make the Y as I suggested and turn on 2 at a time.

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Duke wrote:

Baronn, Baronn, Baronn...... I wrapped mine spirally way back early in this thread. See my post and pic here:

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/17480-11.html

The only difference would be that you double the density by adding your second string in between the wraps of the first. An issue you may have is if you can make a "Y" adaptor to have 2 pixels come on at the same time since the controller can only address 16 pixels right now. They haven't updated the firmware to control 32 when you connect them end to end yet have they? If not then you would need to make the Y as I suggested and turn on 2 at a time.


I am pretty sure thebaronn is planning on using two pixel strings and 2 controllers per arch.:cool:

Seems to be the way he rolls.:D:dude:

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Duke wrote:

Baronn, Baronn, Baronn...... I wrapped mine spirally way back early in this thread. See my post and pic here:

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/17480-11.html

The only difference would be that you double the density by adding your second string in between the wraps of the first. An issue you may have is if you can make a "Y" adaptor to have 2 pixels come on at the same time since the controller can only address 16 pixels right now. They haven't updated the firmware to control 32 when you connect them end to end yet have they? If not then you would need to make the Y as I suggested and turn on 2 at a time.


Thank you!

Like I said I am lazy!

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Paul Roberson wrote:

Duke wrote:
Baronn, Baronn, Baronn...... I wrapped mine spirally way back early in this thread. See my post and pic here:

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/17480-11.html

The only difference would be that you double the density by adding your second string in between the wraps of the first. An issue you may have is if you can make a "Y" adaptor to have 2 pixels come on at the same time since the controller can only address 16 pixels right now. They haven't updated the firmware to control 32 when you connect them end to end yet have they? If not then you would need to make the Y as I suggested and turn on 2 at a time.


I am pretty sure thebaronn is planning on using two pixel strings and 2 controllers per arch.:cool:

Seems to be the way he rolls.:D:dude:


LOL!!!

That was awesome!!

And yes will use 2 separate FF and alternate pixels.

Gotta hurry, Easter is almost here!!!!

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thebaronn wrote:

Paul Roberson wrote:
Duke wrote:
Baronn, Baronn, Baronn...... I wrapped mine spirally way back early in this thread. See my post and pic here:

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/17480-11.html

The only difference would be that you double the density by adding your second string in between the wraps of the first. An issue you may have is if you can make a "Y" adaptor to have 2 pixels come on at the same time since the controller can only address 16 pixels right now. They haven't updated the firmware to control 32 when you connect them end to end yet have they? If not then you would need to make the Y as I suggested and turn on 2 at a time.


I am pretty sure thebaronn is planning on using two pixel strings and 2 controllers per arch.:cool:

Seems to be the way he rolls.:D:dude:


LOL!!!

That was awesome!!

And yes will use 2 separate FF and alternate pixels.

Gotta hurry, Easter is almost here!!!!


Not happening, will have to shelv the dbl FF arch for now.

GRRRRRRR!!!!!!!

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thebaronn wrote:

thebaronn wrote:
Paul Roberson wrote:
Duke wrote:
Baronn, Baronn, Baronn...... I wrapped mine spirally way back early in this thread. See my post and pic here:

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/17480-11.html

The only difference would be that you double the density by adding your second string in between the wraps of the first. An issue you may have is if you can make a "Y" adaptor to have 2 pixels come on at the same time since the controller can only address 16 pixels right now. They haven't updated the firmware to control 32 when you connect them end to end yet have they? If not then you would need to make the Y as I suggested and turn on 2 at a time.


I am pretty sure thebaronn is planning on using two pixel strings and 2 controllers per arch.:cool:

Seems to be the way he rolls.:D:dude:


LOL!!!

That was awesome!!

And yes will use 2 separate FF and alternate pixels.

Gotta hurry, Easter is almost here!!!!


Not happening, will have to shelv the dbl FF arch for now.

GRRRRRRR!!!!!!!


Whats up? What happen to shelve the project?

Sounds like the perfect oportunity for some more FF testing!!

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Dont think I will be able to sequence it for Easter, thats all.

I have actually been having to work...at work! Can you believe that?? I did all my Halloween and Christmas sequencing at work last year. And now I dont have any time. But you know me, even if there is a chance to get it up I will be there!!!

Eric

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Just strolled over to the D-light forums and found this post by Daryl.......:shock:

Thought some might like to know.



We have been very successful in our testing of the "V3" Firefly pixel strings! We have not seen any of the flickering issues with these strings.

Not all of the non-V3 strings were defective so, if you have non-V3 strings (V3 strings can be identified by the yellow ziptie near the controller connector) that are flickering,




  • Please send an email to us at info@d-light.us
  • Place "V3 Replacement" in the subject line of the email
  • Specify how many defective strings that you own.
  • Provide your order number(s) that include your Firefly units.
  • Provide your shipping address.

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