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Pixie 16 status LED - help!


LangfordDave

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Hello everyone,

Been using LOR for a few years now, but this is my first foray into pixels.  Tonight I started the process of hooking up my Pixie16 to a string of 50 pixels.  Watched dibbleJR's video and followed step by step.  Re-set the dip switches, assigned this controller ID 3, then when I tried to run a test sequence in HU the status LED turned off and the pixel test resulted in no lights.  Can no longer see the Pixie in HU.  I've cycled the power supply and disconnected the Pixie from my laptop, but the status LED does not come on any more.  HU still can not see the pixie.  Tried to reset using the small button on the board, but that hasn't helped.  After one of many power cycles I have performed, the LED came on briefly (2 seconds) then went off for 15 or so seconds, and repeated this pattern for a while.  Can't find any info as to what that indicates.  Tried a different power supply but result is the same.  Any ideas?

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Turn the dip switches off

sounds like you didn’t set the unit I’d - log out of HU and log back in to check that the unit ID was actually set correctly

To reset the pixie push and hold the reset button

Unplug it continuing to hold the button

Plug the unit back in and when the light blinks fast- release the button

Check that your max unit ID is set above the number of unit IDs if you have the pixie and 2 controllers just set it to about 30 to be safe 

If you need additional help pm me and I will send you my cell and you can contact me tomorrow

Hopefully you used one of the adapters to connect your pixie to your computer.

I have built about 100 pixies and have never experienced what you describe.

Bootloader mode is long off and 2 short lights

Ensure that’s not the status indicator you are seeing.

What voltage lights are you using and what voltage psu?

 

JR

Edited by dibblejr
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Sorry, I wasn't super clear about the dip switches.  I did turn them off and used HU to set the ID to 3, and I confirmed that the unit ID was set by disconnecting and reconnecting to HU.  Max until ID was set to 8, I raised it to 34 but that didn't make a difference.  I have held that reset button for a long time and it doesn't seem to do anything.  I just tried again as you suggested while it is powered on, and continued to hold while unplugging and re plugging it, but still nothing.

I'll DM you as well, as I'm pulling out my hair trying to figure this out!

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One important note - if your license level is correct you will need to upgrade to pro before you can use that pixie16 in a sequence

JR

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Remember A PIXIE16 uses 16 consecutive ID's. You just set the starting ID.

You chose 3, What other controllers do you have? IMHO set it to a HEX Boundary, it is easier to keep in mind if the ID's are all in the same Logical block. Gaps in ID's are OK.

My first year  (with pixels), I had 2 Pixie 4''s. I left gaps. The next year, I fed LOR some Mad Grab $ and that Pixie 4 ID became a Pixie 8 ID (board swap, and the pixie4 became a spare, oh so temporarily :( ). Because I left Gaps, nothing existing changed, I just added MORE to some sequences.

👍 to Dibblejr for spotting that your license wont cut it

Reducing Max ID (in HU) only speeds up discovery timeout (stops searching for ID's at that number). I set it at least 1 spare HEX block above what is in use. eg I use ID 30 for my Pixie8, Max is set at 4F

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/25/2020 at 11:50 PM, dibblejr said:

One important note - if your license level is correct you will need to upgrade to pro before you can use that pixie16 in a sequence

JR

Thanks, I have just upgraded.  

By the way, after all the troubleshooting, it seems that the board was just bad.  LOR sent me a replacement and everything works as expected.

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On 7/26/2020 at 7:31 AM, TheDucks said:

Remember A PIXIE16 uses 16 consecutive ID's. You just set the starting ID.

You chose 3, What other controllers do you have? IMHO set it to a HEX Boundary, it is easier to keep in mind if the ID's are all in the same Logical block. Gaps in ID's are OK.

My first year  (with pixels), I had 2 Pixie 4''s. I left gaps. The next year, I fed LOR some Mad Grab $ and that Pixie 4 ID became a Pixie 8 ID (board swap, and the pixie4 became a spare, oh so temporarily :( ). Because I left Gaps, nothing existing changed, I just added MORE to some sequences.

This is something that I am just starting to look in to.  I currently have 2 x 16 channel traditional controllers (CTB16PC) that are units 1 and 2, and I'm adding a 16 channel Pixie.  Are you suggesting I start at 17 (HEX 11?) since it's the next block of 16?  This is still fairly new to me.  And, assuming I start at 17, each channel on the board would increase the unit number by 1, so the last channel would be 32 (HEX 20)?

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Unit IDs ARE in hex, so set start ID to either 10 or 11 (depending on how you think).  In my opinion, it is easier to think "All of this Pixie is 1n so string 3 is ID 13" as opposed to string 3 is ID 12.  Yes, starting with 11 does result in string 16 being ID 20.  Like I said, depends on how you think....

Lay out your Unit IDs in something that makes sense to you.  In my case, my network 1 (called Regular network)  is blocked off for IDs 01 - 1F (although only one ID is used on that network).  My network 2 (called Aux A network) is blocked off for IDs 11 - 1F, and my network 3 (called Aux B network) is blocked off for IDs 21 - 2F.  BTW, if you are running more than one LOR network, you CAN use the same controller IDs on different networks - for example: Regular Network, Unit ID 07 is completely different than Aux A Network, Unit ID 07 as far as the software is concerned.  However, it is easier for us human beings to keep is straight if you don't duplicate Unit ID numbers on different networks.

 

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45 minutes ago, LangfordDave said:

This is something that I am just starting to look in to.  I currently have 2 x 16 channel traditional controllers (CTB16PC) that are units 1 and 2, and I'm adding a 16 channel Pixie.  Are you suggesting I start at 17 (HEX 11?) since it's the next block of 16?  This is still fairly new to me.  And, assuming I start at 17, each channel on the board would increase the unit number by 1, so the last channel would be 32 (HEX 20)?

No.

Take a look at my video and tutorial on setting up a pixie controller.

Dint get all confuse by the above statement.

Just set in to 17 with the HU and let the controller do the rest. (or whatever beginning unit ID you wish as long as its not one you already use. You assign the first ID and the software will handle the rest.

You then add it to your sequence as the first unit ID and SE will do the rest.

Do not try to manually add ports with a pixie controller.

Go to the General Hardware section of the forums - top of page is my writeup and you can skip everything and go right to the video.

JR

Edited by dibblejr
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12 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

Unit IDs ARE in hex, so set start ID to either 10 or 11 (depending on how you think).  In my opinion, it is easier to think "All of this Pixie is 1n so string 3 is ID 13" as opposed to string 3 is ID 12.  Yes, starting with 11 does result in string 16 being ID 20.  Like I said, depends on how you think....

Lay out your Unit IDs in something that makes sense to you.  In my case, my network 1 (called Regular network)  is blocked off for IDs 01 - 1F (although only one ID is used on that network).  My network 2 (called Aux A network) is blocked off for IDs 11 - 1F, and my network 3 (called Aux B network) is blocked off for IDs 21 - 2F.  BTW, if you are running more than one LOR network, you CAN use the same controller IDs on different networks - for example: Regular Network, Unit ID 07 is completely different than Aux A Network, Unit ID 07 as far as the software is concerned.  However, it is easier for us human beings to keep is straight if you don't duplicate Unit ID numbers on different networks.

 

In my reply that happened to post at the same time as yours, my ref was to the post above his. Not your my friend.

Some people get all wrapped up in the Hex system. I just ut all of mine in the next open unit IS since the bales mean more to me than the consecutive unit ID's,

JR

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20 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

Unit IDs ARE in hex, so set start ID to either 10 or 11 (depending on how you think).  In my opinion, it is easier to think "All of this Pixie is 1n so string 3 is ID 13" as opposed to string 3 is ID 12.  Yes, starting with 11 does result in string 16 being ID 20.  Like I said, depends on how you think....

Lay out your Unit IDs in something that makes sense to you.  In my case, my network 1 (called Regular network)  is blocked off for IDs 01 - 1F (although only one ID is used on that network).  My network 2 (called Aux A network) is blocked off for IDs 11 - 1F, and my network 3 (called Aux B network) is blocked off for IDs 21 - 2F.  BTW, if you are running more than one LOR network, you CAN use the same controller IDs on different networks - for example: Regular Network, Unit ID 07 is completely different than Aux A Network, Unit ID 07 as far as the software is concerned.  However, it is easier for us human beings to keep is straight if you don't duplicate Unit ID numbers on different networks.

 

I must be really screwed up then because I just put IDs anywhere I have room for them, I do that especially with my Universes.  😁  However, I do keep a good chart on where everything is.

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7 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

I must be really screwed up then because I just put IDs anywhere I have room for them, I do that especially with my Universes.  😁  However, I do keep a good chart on where everything is.

I am with you but I dnt keep a spreadsheet, just a screen show of NP and a current config LOL

So I am more screwed up than you. LOL

JR

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