What's Next!

[Tuke]

37 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

I would like to clear things up when it comes to the size of the controller. The Pixie Series of controllers comes in 2, 4, 8 and 16, the larger Pixie16 is good for props where you have many strings/ribbons in a confined space such as a Pixel tree or matrix. other then that you are better off running several smaller controllers which can cover a larger area with shorter extension runs. Shorter extension runs keep the voltage drop to a minimum and you will not have to add Null Pixels to regenerate the data signal which degrades over distance. Keep in mind that when it comes to pixels distance is the enemy.

As far as pixels you can learn more info about types and specs here:

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Different_Styles_of_Pixels

Thank you. You wouldn't happen to have a link for a LOR "Pixel setup" basics video would ya'? I've watched some on YouTube but they're more towards how to use the software as opposed to:

1- What you need - Pixels, Pixel controller, power supply, etc...

2 - How to set up.

Instead, the ones I've seen assume you already have everything you need purchased and set up and just jump in to how to sequence. 

Thanks.

[TheDucks]

21 minutes ago, Tuke said:

Thank you. You wouldn't happen to have a link for a LOR "Pixel setup" basics video would ya'? I've watched some on YouTube but they're more towards how to use the software as opposed to:

1- What you need - Pixels, Pixel controller, power supply, etc...

2 - How to set up.

Instead, the ones I've seen assume you already have everything you need purchased and set up and just jump in to how to sequence. 

Thanks.

I think this is one of the reasons LOR and HC sell RTG (ready to go) hardware packages.  IMHO I still think the best way to learn, is to look at various folks builds and find one that FITS you conditions and skill.

There are great assembly vids out there. Take time to do it RIGHT (unless you have money to burn when it smokes)

The Rain belt folk need water resistance. The hot belt user need better cooling. Snow bound folk need Solid everything, because fixing on the fly is a 😮  There is no SINGLE best way (as long as the smoke stays in)

HOMEWORK, then bounce your plans off other lighters. 

HU is how you configure the Pixies for 'chip type' being used. WS2811 is a common one (I think this is what HC sells as 12V). With Pixies there is only a Per/Board setting, so all  connected to that board MUST be the same type.

 

 

[TexasLights]

1 - yes.  you need a controller and pixels and power.  
- you can buy the package from LOR, either as a tree (comes with strings and equipment to build the tree) or just a controller and pixels (no mounting) 

- you can buy the piece parts, controller, power supply and pixels, but at list price of $400 for a complete package, controller and 8 X 50 strips, that not much more expensive than buying the parts - but if you on the other hand want to buy piece parts you can.  The different vendors dot no all use the same connectors so you need to be sure to get ones that will work or can be swapped.  Of course, if you are building yourself, you probably also wired the controller for whatever pixels you purchased.   I know others here buy their pixels direct so I will let them comment on options there. 

2 - for setup, its pretty simple as long as you do not want to go large distances, unlike regular lights where you can run a 100 foot cord across your yard, or plug a dozen strings into 1 outlet.  You plug the pixels into the controller and possibly a 2nd into that one. The number of pixels are limited per controller output (100 for the pixie8).  They do sell extensions, their length is limited.   So some things like a tree are easy because the strings are all right together which of course is why they sell that as a package.  Arches as long as not too far apart as also pretty simple.   But if decided you wanted to put pixels all along the perimeter of your house, that becomes more a challenge because the power drop is too much to simply run a single se.   Again, I will defer to others to fill in the blanks there if that is the direction you want to go.

Edited December 14, 2019 by TexasLights

[TexasLights]

and if you go for the LOR packages or options, they have a spring sale where they have some very good prices on things and a summer sale where the prices are reduced 

[Tuke]

22 minutes ago, TexasLights said:

and if you go for the LOR packages or options, they have a spring sale where they have some very good prices on things and a summer sale where the prices are reduced 

I found a video set by a youtuber called "CanispatorChristmas" on nothing but pixels so I'm in the process of watching that at the moment. Pretty informative. 

Before I decided to try the LOR, I had actually planned to do my entire house in RGB but was quickly informed that with the length of lights I would need I would also need like 8-10 power supplies so that nixed that idea.

I just need to figure out exactly what I want to display and then figure what I need to make it happen. I could ask questions all day long but until I know what I'm going to do it's all kind of a moot point.

Thanks again to all!

[k6ccc]

17 hours ago, TheDucks said:

12V for longer strings without power injection (P=I*E)  since power is about the same. I goes down at 12V. I is what needs fatter wire because of our enemy R

There is a BUT.  One disadvantage to 12 volt pixels is that the current is the same regardless if they pixels are 5V or 12V - in the case of WS2811 pixels, they draw 55 to 60 mA per pixel.  That means that your total power consumption is about 2.4 times higher with 12 volt pixels - therefore larger or more power supplies.  Taking numbers right out of the Falcon F16v3 controller manual: a string of 50 5V WS2811 pixels has a total power consumption of 13.85 watts, whereas 50 12V WS2811 pixels will take 33.24 watts.  Note:  I am talking about strings where each pixel is individually controllable - NOT strips where 12V strips often series three RGB LEDs together.

 

[Tuke]

34 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

There is a BUT.  One disadvantage to 12 volt pixels is that the current is the same regardless if they pixels are 5V or 12V - in the case of WS2811 pixels, they draw 55 to 60 mA per pixel.  That means that your total power consumption is about 2.4 times higher with 12 volt pixels - therefore larger or more power supplies.  Taking numbers right out of the Falcon F16v3 controller manual: a string of 50 5V WS2811 pixels has a total power consumption of 13.85 watts, whereas 50 12V WS2811 pixels will take 33.24 watts.  Note:  I am talking about strings where each pixel is individually controllable - NOT strips where 12V strips often series three RGB LEDs together.

 

Wouldn't I be able to decrease power consumption by lowering the light intensity to maybe 50%? I know the nodes can be very bright so I may not run them at full capacity depending on what the overall display looks like.

[k6ccc]

Correct.