Jumper required?? Did my startup test today, 8 channels not working

[marcmiller04]

I bought my 1st 16 channel controller from the website earlier this year, and then bought 2 more 16 channel controllers from another member on the forums.

I didn't do anything with the 1st controller as far as setup, considering I was planning to use it as unit 1 the whole time.  The 2 controllers I got from the other member I re-configured to be named unit 2 and 3 respectively, but did nothing else on them.

When running my first test tonight, I noticed that there was 8 channels (1-8) not lighting up on controller unit 1.  I looked at all the controllers and the only difference that I can clearly see between the controllers is that there is a jumper on units 2 & 3 but not on one.  Wanted to be sure that it is needed before I do it though.

Thanks

[Mr. P]

Where is the jumper? How many long power cords on each? A new CTB16PC comes with two long power cords and both need to be plugged in. A modified controller will have one long power cord with jumpers between the power terminals.

[marcmiller04]

I took the 2nd cord off the controller, had it in my head that if using 2 cords, it would be putting 240v into the controller.  Was worried about hurting the controller.  I will take a pic of the jumpers in the other 2 controllers and post it shortly.  

Btw, the other controllers only have 1 power cord as well...

[Mr. P]

If you took one cord off then you must install jumpers on the power terminals as one power cord provides power for channels 1-8 and the other power cord for channels 9-16.

[TheDucks]

2 minutes ago, marcmiller04 said:

I took the 2nd cord off the controller, had it in my head that if using 2 cords, it would be putting 240v into the controller.  Was worried about hurting the controller.  I will take a pic of the jumpers in the other 2 controllers and post it shortly.  

Btw, the other controllers only have 1 power cord as well...

Just install the 2 14Ga jumpers as shon in the uses guide. (you need to make those)   DO NOT use jumpers if the second power cord is attached

[marcmiller04]

Ok, that's what I figured, but wanted top double check before doing that.  

I'll make the jumpers tonight and re-test tomorrow

Thanks. 

I'm such a hands on learner that reading these things doesn't always make sense to me. 

Another question, if I use both plugs, instead of a jumper, could I, in theory, plug each plug into a different circuit?  Then would that make each bank on the controller a separate 120v?

[TheDucks]

2 minutes ago, marcmiller04 said:

Ok, that's what I figured, but wanted top double check before doing that.  

I'll make the jumpers tonight and re-test tomorrow

Thanks. 

I'm such a hands on learner that reading these things doesn't always make sense to me. 

Another question, if I use both plugs, instead of a jumper, could I, in theory, plug each plug into a different circuit?  Then would that make each bank on the controller a separate 120v?

Correct.  If you loo at the White wires, you will see they are isolated (that is why a 1 cord need the jumper between).

Even id you did plug 1 cord into a Red phase and the other into the Balck (standard residential color code), you would not get 240 because the 2 banks are isolated (from the factory)

[marcmiller04]

11 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

Correct.  If you loo at the White wires, you will see they are isolated (that is why a 1 cord need the jumper between).

Even id you did plug 1 cord into a Red phase and the other into the Balck (standard residential color code), you would not get 240 because the 2 banks are isolated (from the factory)

Awesome, good to know.  I was a little nervous about possibly overloading one of the controllers, there are quite a few HD bulbs on one of the controllers but it seemed fine the way it was.  This could/would help with that in the future

[Orville]

12 hours ago, marcmiller04 said:

Awesome, good to know.  I was a little nervous about possibly overloading one of the controllers, there are quite a few HD bulbs on one of the controllers but it seemed fine the way it was.  This could/would help with that in the future

Also the amperage is increase by having both cords, the amperage goes down to 1/2 of what it was when both cords are installed.  I'm guessing the amps for the moment, but if the amps are 30 Amps with both cords attached, that drops to 15 Amps with only a single cord.  

If you're mostly all LED, one cord and lower amperage is fine, but if you have a lot of incandescent items, then a single cord may actually overload the controller and blow the fuses if the amps get too high, especially if you have any areas where you'd light the entire display up at once for any extended duration.   

All mine still have both cords attached and I'm mostly RGB now but there are still a lot of items in my display that are still incandescent my 4 Arches, Blow Molds, Bells, Star, some Wall Mounted decorations and some Candy Canes}, so to me 2 cords are better than the single one for these items being controlled by the CTB16PC Controllers.

[marcmiller04]

Are your two cords used on the same circuit? I haven't run power to my area yet, I can easily run 6+ circuits if I need to. 

 

Currently only have 3 controllers but that'll extend next year, I want to try RGB next year

[Orville]

4 hours ago, marcmiller04 said:

Are your two cords used on the same circuit? I haven't run power to my area yet, I can easily run 6+ circuits if I need to. 

 

Currently only have 3 controllers but that'll extend next year, I want to try RGB next year

Believe it or not I am running all 8 of my outside Controllers off the same circuit, been doing it for years and I've never had any issues.  That's 3 older CTB16PC Ver 2 Controllers and the 5 Smart RGB Pixel Controllers that was added this year.  But if I do a "pop" where I have all lights on in a sequence they're only on for a very brief time, not for more than probably 15-20 seconds at most.  At one time I had 5 CTB16PC Controllers all running off the same circuit along with an older MP3 Director Unit, never had any issues with that set up either in the 4 years I ran it that way.

And everything through my outdoor outlet that has a GFCI outlet plugged into that and the GFCI to all the controllers, all on the same circuit.  But I have minimal incandescent lighting now, the RGB Lighting is the largest bulb count I have at the moment.

And the new set up for this year has been running like this for over 2 months now and never an issue.

Edited December 2, 2018 by Orville

[TheDucks]

When we talk Incans, we are not usually talking Mini-lights,  unless you are running more per port than can be connected end to end (as stated on the box) ~3A total / string LOR channel outlet.

a FEW old INCAN c7 OR 9's WOULD PUSH A CIRCUIT LIMIT FAST.

If you even think you are close. Get a Kill-a-Watt meter or use an Amp-clamp around the black WIRE feeding a bank

(I assume, if you own an Clamp-on Amp meter, you know how to use one)

[Orville]

Total C7's I'm running:  31 and then I also have some 25W Lamp Bulbs: 4. All this in Blow Molds in my display.  Been on same circuit and controller for years, never had any issues.  But they aren't all on at the same time except for a short burst of 10-20 seconds in a few sequences where I use that.