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Pixie 16 voltage swap issue


Wygantmb

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So here’s my deal. I have two Pixe 16 controllers that I had hooked to 5v power supply’s for my Halloween display. During my swap out for Christmas  I had to change the power supplies out for 12v since all of my Christmas props are 12v. The HM is seeing the controllers but none of the lights will work while running test on them. Is there something I may have missed?  I don’t see why I’d have to do anything while from just changing over the power supplies. Any help is welcome. I’m done messing with them for the night. I’ll give it another try tomorrow. Thanks in advance. 

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i'm not sure of the Pixie 16, but did you just disconnect the 5V supply and then wire the 12V supply to the same terminals?  I think each power supply is connected to different areas on those boards.  So if you happen to put the 12V on the 5V line, you may have let the magic smoke out of some of the components on your Pixie 16 and may need repaired.   I know most of these type boards usually have 2 separate sections, one for 5VDC and the other for 12VDC.

Just know most dual supply boards, each voltage is separated, and putting the wrong voltage on the wrong line, especially higher voltage on the lower voltage can do some damage to components and even lights connected to the device.

Like stated, most boards I've seen have this type setup and I think I read the Pixie series isn't any different in this respect.

Good Lucj.

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3 hours ago, Wygantmb said:

So here’s my deal. I have two Pixe 16 controllers that I had hooked to 5v power supply’s for my Halloween display. During my swap out for Christmas  I had to change the power supplies out for 12v since all of my Christmas props are 12v. The HM is seeing the controllers but none of the lights will work while running test on them. Is there something I may have missed?  I don’t see why I’d have to do anything while from just changing over the power supplies. Any help is welcome. I’m done messing with them for the night. I’ll give it another try tomorrow. Thanks in advance. 

What Gen Pixie16?

Do you have the flashing status light and if you do what happens when you open HU up and refresh the "search for unit ID"?

Did you try resetting the board?

Did you connect the PS to the Logical Input terminals? that's the key, sounds like you connected to the incorrect terminals.

Check your fuses?

JR

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23 minutes ago, Orville said:

i'm not sure of the Pixie 16, but did you just disconnect the 5V supply and then wire the 12V supply to the same terminals?  I think each power supply is connected to different areas on those boards.  So if you happen to put the 12V on the 5V line, you may have let the magic smoke out of some of the components on your Pixie 16 and may need repaired.   I know most of these type boards usually have 2 separate sections, one for 5VDC and the other for 12VDC.

Just know most dual supply boards, each voltage is separated, and putting the wrong voltage on the wrong line, especially higher voltage on the lower voltage can do some damage to components and even lights connected to the device.

Like stated, most boards I've seen have this type setup and I think I read the Pixie series isn't any different in this respect.

Good Lucj.

Pixie 8 and 16 just have 2 banks. You can run them at different voltages (5V on one bank, 12V on the other)  but there is not an input difference per voltage.

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25 minutes ago, Orville said:

i'm not sure of the Pixie 16, but did you just disconnect the 5V supply and then wire the 12V supply to the same terminals?  I think each power supply is connected to different areas on those boards.  So if you happen to put the 12V on the 5V line, you may have let the magic smoke out of some of the components on your Pixie 16 and may need repaired.   I know most of these type boards usually have 2 separate sections, one for 5VDC and the other for 12VDC.

Just know most dual supply boards, each voltage is separated, and putting the wrong voltage on the wrong line, especially higher voltage on the lower voltage can do some damage to components and even lights connected to the device.

Like stated, most boards I've seen have this type setup and I think I read the Pixie series isn't any different in this respect.

Good Lucj.

Same terminals for either 12v or 5 v on the pixies. However for power in from PS has to be connected 2 logical terminals

JR

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Logical is the ones that power the electronics on the board as well as its bank. The other only powers its bank.

If your power supply can handle the attached loads, jumper the + to + and - to -

If you run 2 supplies, be sure the - of each are bonded (the Pixie may do this (I don't own one with 2 banks, so I can't verify)

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1 minute ago, TheDucks said:

Logical is the ones that power the electronics on the board as well as its bank. The other only powers its bank.

If your power supply can handle the attached loads, jumper the + to + and - to -

If you run 2 supplies, be sure the - of each are bonded (the Pixie may do this (I don't own one with 2 banks, so I can't verify)

Yes they do. A while back I posted my dual PS Pixie16 to show someone. Yes, both banks need to be tied in.

I would assume if the OP removed the PS he could simply replace. My next assumption is he purchased assembled controllers and not used to building them.

JR

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Thanks folks, more info to add to my collection so i know the next time.   Just know when I worked in Electronics about a hundred-million years ago{sure seems like it too me! LOL}, anyway, dual voltage boards always had 2 separate terminals for each voltage level needed.  And each had to be ISOLATED from the other.  How things have changed over the last several years.

Edited by Orville
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30 minutes ago, Orville said:

Thanks folks, more info to add to my collection so i know the next time.   Just know when I worked in Electronics about a hundred-million years ago{sure seems like it too me! LOL}, anyway, dual voltage boards always had 2 separate terminals for each voltage level needed.  And each had to be ISOLATED from the other.  How things have changed over the last several years.

Even CMB24's from LOR are different. The Lights can run at 5V, then you need a 12V wall wort attached to the round jack, to supply the board logic. (the pixies don't have the need)

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36 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

Even CMB24's from LOR are different. The Lights can run at 5V, then you need a 12V wall wort attached to the round jack, to supply the board logic. (the pixies don't have the need)

No wonder even us seasoned electronics folks get confused in THIS HOBBY of ours now days!🤣

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I think my board just gave out. Swapped out the board and the new one is fine. The New style pixie 16 have two separate banks. You can actually run both 5v and 12v on the same controller so long as all the lights use the same protocol. One side would be 5v and the other would be 12v. My previous board was all 5v for Halloween but for some reason when I switched to 12v it didn’t like it. Oh well. All is good now. 

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  • 3 years later...
On 11/12/2018 at 1:11 PM, Wygantmb said:

I think my board just gave out. Swapped out the board and the new one is fine. The New style pixie 16 have two separate banks. You can actually run both 5v and 12v on the same controller so long as all the lights use the same protocol. One side would be 5v and the other would be 12v. My previous board was all 5v for Halloween but for some reason when I switched to 12v it didn’t like it. Oh well. All is good now. 

Just curious since 12V should not have been an issue. were you running 1 supply or 2? Did you measure 12V at the the Logic side terminals? (and the correct polarity) . I don't think the board logic will survive even a short polarity reversal.

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12 hours ago, zeph said:

Same issue in my  pixie 16, i all ready replace all the fuse please help me. What component need to be replace? Thanks

IIRC the PI is 120V 60Hz so a LOR RTG controller would be fine.

Do you have a DVM (as long as it is close on readings, it will do)? The fuses are only for the Strings .

1) verify there is 12VDC across the Right side terminals.

Is the Red LED ON (blinking or steady)? Board Logic is powered.

If the voltage is low or missing, try again with NO STRINGS attached. Possible overloaded supply shutting down.

2) Measure (you can place the probe tips on the green connector screw heads) each port. 12V = good fuses.

3) No lights, Use the HU to set the Chip type of your strings (you only can set one per board, a good reason 2 8's can be better than 1 16).

Once they do light, use the color order (use the advanced setting button method. More reliable) to make the the correct one.

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