12mm STrings with Connectors - Use or Cutoff?

[mpageler]

So far, all the 12mm ws2811 strings I have used, had bare wire leads, no connectors and have sodler multiple strings together.    For strings that have  connectotr leads on both ends, are they reliable for the long haul if you do a good job of heatshringing/tapeing the connectors.  Or just cut the connectors off and do a solder connection. 

 

I've used solderless connectors on some rgb strips.   With good waterproofing/support on these connectors, I've had no issue with them in 3 years of use.     Being visually impaired, I can hadle soldering string ok but couldn't get reliable solder connectings on strips.

 

 

 

 

[ebrown1972]

7 hours ago, mpageler said:

So far, all the 12mm ws2811 strings I have used, had bare wire leads, no connectors and have sodler multiple strings together.    For strings that have  connectotr leads on both ends, are they reliable for the long haul if you do a good job of heatshringing/tapeing the connectors.  Or just cut the connectors off and do a solder connection. 

 

I've used solderless connectors on some rgb strips.   With good waterproofing/support on these connectors, I've had no issue with them in 3 years of use.     Being visually impaired, I can hadle soldering string ok but couldn't get reliable solder connectings on strips.

 

 

 

 

I only use heat shrink butt connectors on my strings. I have had no issues whatsoever doing it this way. I once used solder sleeves but had nothing but problems with them. For me the butt connectors are quick and easy and seal very good. I do not use any other heat shrink on mine just the butt connectors that are heat shrinkable.

[dibblejr]

10 hours ago, mpageler said:

So far, all the 12mm ws2811 strings I have used, had bare wire leads, no connectors and have sodler multiple strings together.    For strings that have  connectotr leads on both ends, are they reliable for the long haul if you do a good job of heatshringing/tapeing the connectors.  Or just cut the connectors off and do a solder connection. 

 

I've used solderless connectors on some rgb strips.   With good waterproofing/support on these connectors, I've had no issue with them in 3 years of use.     Being visually impaired, I can hadle soldering string ok but couldn't get reliable solder connectings on strips.

 

 

 

 

I have used both. If I use the factory connectors to put two strings together I use silicone and just cover the entire thing.

On an upcoming prop I have used the pre solderd, heat shrink butt connectors but I also use 2 other marine grade heat shrink tubing to give them additional strength. One covers the original splices and the larger one covers the entire 3 wires. I use this same technique on my boat and have never had any problems.

Also the unused bare ends get cut off and dipped in silicone making them look like a tear drop to keep any mistakes from happening or water causing problems.

My "long haul" is almost a year but I do not see a problem with the silicone. For those I use the 3M5200. That is almost like welding and you will have to cut the wires if you ever want to change. 3M4200 is just below that still pretty difficult to remove but not impossible. Both are Marine grade sealants.

JR

[k6ccc]

11 hours ago, mpageler said:

So far, all the 12mm ws2811 strings I have used, had bare wire leads, no connectors and have sodler multiple strings together.    For strings that have  connectotr leads on both ends, are they reliable for the long haul if you do a good job of heatshringing/tapeing the connectors.  Or just cut the connectors off and do a solder connection. 

If you are talking about the little plastic connectors that almost look like a PC board connector, I have always cut those off.  As an electronics technician, I am very good at soldering (I better be!), so soldering wires is a piece of cake for me.  As a lot of my stuff is used year round, I am very aggressive about heat shrinking with the two layer heat shrink tubing that has the goo on the inside.  I have never had one of my joint leak, and some of them end up under water.

11 hours ago, mpageler said:

I've used solderless connectors on some rgb strips.   With good waterproofing/support on these connectors, I've had no issue with them in 3 years of use.     Being visually impaired, I can hadle soldering string ok but couldn't get reliable solder connectings on strips.

Soldering strips would be far more difficult for someone with imparted vision as it can be pretty close spacing.  Here is a tip that works on most strips.  The solder pads are on both sides of the strip.  So what I do is solder two of the connections on the top side and two on the bottom side.  This makes it far easier to keep from shorting something.  My other suggestion when soldering strips, is to test your work after EVERY end has been soldered and BEFORE you put on the heat shrink tubing.  Then test it again after you slide the heat shrink tubing into place and shrink it down.  For smart strips or strings, I have a little test module (they were $3.00 from Ray Wu) that will generate test data without having to haul out much stuff.  For dumb strips, all it takes is a few clip leads.

 

[mpageler]

Thanks guys, I think I will just stick with solder joints on pixel strings.   The only reason I asked about factory connectors is that I prefer red/white/blue wired string to make soldering easier..color coded.  Past dealer now longer carries color wired string and looking at another dealer who has them and they just happen to come with connectors already.