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Connecting P10 LED panels to LOR?


brichi

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12 minutes ago, brichi said:

I have the latest beta installed from here - http://dankulp.com/bbb/

im assuming thats what you mean?

 

 

 

Yes, I believe that's the one. 

Right now my panels are running off of  Pi's but I have a beaglebone showing up tomorrow to try with Dan's image to see if I can improve upon a couple of minor glitches. 

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oh nice, please keep me posted, I'm all new at this so i am a little lost until i actually have the equipment to start testing, 

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1 hour ago, Ebuechner said:

I'm considering building a P10 panel to replace my holiday Coro Singing Trees.

This will be my third P10 panel in the show. 

By using a P10 panel I'll have the option of putting up whatever face I choose to match the music that I'm playing instead of being stuck with just the 4 images of trees. 

If you're going to go with the beaglebone definitely use Dan's image. 

He made some improvements to His Image which allows you to limit the outputs to only what you have connected so that you can maximize your refresh rate. 

It also has support for P5 panels and other scan rates other than 1/8. 

Listen to Ed you must, Zen Master of P10's he is (** in my best Yoda voice**).

Ed helped me get my head around how these things work (and stopped me from over-analyzing the product, sequencing, network, et al).

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My testing with a beaglebone is going to be done next month after the panels come down.

I know you mentioned keeping it light and hanging them from the window, this is exactly what I did.

My panels are only about 2 1/2 inches thick and I custom welded some brackets that allow me to hang the panel from my casement window without having to screw anything into the house.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwDgEpqsgNhfSzVGYVFoalRWMWc

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very nice. Similar to what i want to do but its a double window so roughly 56 panels for a 85"x60" (rough estimate). whats the white panel u used in the back? GoBoard?

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The back on the small P10 is the fiberglass wallboard.

On the large P10 I bought a roll of aluminum and use that like shingles on the back overlapping each other to allow for ventilation while preventing the water from getting in.

The aluminum roll was the lightest option to cover the back because my panel is over 4 foot in both directions and I didn't want to buy another expensive piece of lexan. 

Nothing on my P10 are sealed tight, everything is designed for the water to run over the seams preventing penetration. 

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1 minute ago, Ebuechner said:

The back on the small P10 is the fiberglass wallboard.

On the large P10 I bought a roll of aluminum and use that like shingles on the back overlapping each other to allow for ventilation while preventing the water from getting in.

The aluminum roll was the lightest option to cover the back because my panel is over 4 foot in both directions and I didn't want to buy another expensive piece of lexan. 

Nothing on my P10 are sealed tight, everything is designed for the water to run over the seams preventing penetration. 

Good to know, was going to close mine in next year when it goes outside.

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I should mention my frames are made from Cedar because it had the weight to structural strength ratio I was looking for as well as being weather resistant.

Then the outside is wrapped with aluminum fascia. 

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Lexan extruded polycarbonate.

It costs a little more but you don't have to worry about it fracturing at stress points when you drill it to put screws in. 

Because of the size of the frame I planned my design around the lexan providing some of the structural strength. 

The frame is only made from a 3/4 inch thick piece of cedar. 

The lexan is screwed to the frame on the top and the right and left sides and the bottom is left open for ventilation. 

There is a vertical piece of wood inside the frame that provides support for the center of the panels as well as keeping the bottom from bowing because the lexan isn't attached at that point. 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

Lexan extruded polycarbonate.

It costs a little more but you don't have to worry about it fracturing at stress points when you drill it to put screws in. 

Because of the size of the frame I planned my design around the lexan providing some of the structural strength. 

The frame is only made from a 3/4 inch thick piece of cedar. 

The lexan is screwed to the frame on the top and the right and left sides and the bottom is left open for ventilation. 

There is a vertical piece of wood inside the frame that provides support for the center of the panels as well as keeping the bottom from bowing because the lexan isn't attached at that point. 

 

 

where does one find this?

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We have a local place called Midwest Plastics where I buy most of the plastic I need including the sheets that I use for vacuum forming. 

I usually go in there and tell them what I'm trying to do and then let them steer me towards the best product. 

 

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27 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

We have a local place called Midwest Plastics where I buy most of the plastic I need including the sheets that I use for vacuum forming. 

I usually go in there and tell them what I'm trying to do and then let them steer me towards the best product. 

 

what thickness?  would 1/32 do?

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Loaded question.

You would want to make your decision based upon how far you're going to span with the plastic.

 I just put a micrometer on mine and it's .118 .

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20 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

Loaded question.

You would want to make your decision based upon how far you're going to span with the plastic.

 I just put a micrometer on mine and it's .118 .

four foot square, haven't used a micrometer since 1972.

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I think they're now using metric sizes because that works out to be about 3 mm. Just under 1/8 of an inch. 

And I have that on my big P10 panel which is 4 x 8 panels so if memory serves me right that's about 52 1/4 inches

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good morning guys, Are you guys using the "outdoor" panels or "indoor"?    Im assuming the indoor and thats why you're building a frame? I was debating the outdoor panels and then not having to build a frame if they are water proof, not much info on the differences, they look exactly the same on ray's site

 

updated: 

actually looks like outdoor are 1/4 scan which I believe is not supported anyway

Edited by brichi
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11 minutes ago, brichi said:

good morning guys, Are you guys using the "outdoor" panels or "indoor"?    Im assuming the indoor and thats why you're building a frame? I was debating the outdoor panels and then not having to build a frame if they are water proof, not much info on the differences, they look exactly the same on ray's site

 

updated: 

actually looks like outdoor are 1/4 scan which I believe is not supported anyway

usually the outdoor are what billboard companies use, I have found those to be $21 a panel as opposed to $8

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