Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums
brichi

Connecting P10 LED panels to LOR?

Recommended Posts

I have the OLS once in one of my pixie controller boxes for when i had to power inject a ton of [Foul Language Used], they work great. I don't know why i didn't think of those on the screen i just but, ill use on my next one, a lot easier then all the tiny screw from the distro8's i bought

 

and maybe this to run all the grounds to - https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Ground-Distribution-Block-Kit/dp/B00X326A1K/ref=pd_sim_263_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X326A1K&pd_rd_r=TPEJG5C9SQ251DRC6H70&pd_rd_w=dcs2T&pd_rd_wg=4DtDJ&psc=1&refRID=TPEJG5C9SQ251DRC6H70

Edited by brichi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I usually go to Menards or home Depot and pick up the grounding blocks that they sell for electrical panels I think the small ones go for like five or six dollars. 

Morris 91132 Morris Products 91132 Ground/Neutral Bar, Aluminum, 5 Circuits, #14 - #4 Wire Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKG7BJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S1KzAbMT38DJR

Edited by Ebuechner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

I usually go to Menards or home Depot and pick up the grounding blocks that they sell for electrical panels I think the small ones go for like five or six dollars. 

That's what I use.  The photo below has one on the right wall of the enclosure about half way up.  The fuses are right below the stub of conduit and the ground strip is below the fuses.   One of my projects for this year is to completely rebuild the power distribution in this enclosure and get rid of the 1/4 inch glass fuses.  It was what I had available when I built it, but I really want to get away from the glass fuses.  I also have run out of room and need to add another load or two when I move one more DC controller into that enclosure.

DC_column_right.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, brichi said:

I have the OLS once in one of my pixie controller boxes for when i had to power inject a ton of [Foul Language Used], they work great. I don't know why i didn't think of those on the screen i just but, ill use on my next one, a lot easier then all the tiny screw from the distro8's i bought

 

and maybe this to run all the grounds to - https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Ground-Distribution-Block-Kit/dp/B00X326A1K/ref=pd_sim_263_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X326A1K&pd_rd_r=TPEJG5C9SQ251DRC6H70&pd_rd_w=dcs2T&pd_rd_wg=4DtDJ&psc=1&refRID=TPEJG5C9SQ251DRC6H70

Yep, that's what I used. 

block a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have A question figured I would throw it out there to see if anyone has a good answer, Finally got all my p10 stuff in and hooked up but my bulbs look a bluish color all my setting seem to be correct.  running a beagle bone black with an octoscroller and p10 panels bought from Ray at alie express these ones.     https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/P10-rgb-SMD-3in1-full-color-indoor-LED-Display-screen-unit-board-32-16pixels-320mm-160mm/701799_866772137.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.3ebec241XwHHeR

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the same ones I bought.  Yep, all white is VERY blue.  Adjust the color in your sequencing - just like any other pixel.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure there are different panels out there.  There will be differences between manufacturers, and even manufacturing batches.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

exactly, I went with Rays because they were highly recommended and I buy a lot from him and trust him. I bought a total of 140 and they all look great, I haven't concentrated on the whites really to see if they looked blueish, it looks white to me, lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, anthonyrusso3 said:

Here is A Picture of the panel color white tell me what you think.

Your photo washed out the color, but I can follow what you're getting.  I assume that the LEDs are really about the teal blue that shows as the surrounding background.  Assuming that is the case, that is pretty close to the color that I get when I send full white - either from the test utility in FPP or from LOR. Yep, that's pretty blue, but like I said, about what I get.  Just plan on adjusting your color mix in your sequences - just like you would do with any other pixel.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ill post a pic tomorrow of all white, mines not that blue, mine looks pretty white

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just went back and looked at the video from last weekend.  You can see in the video that the white is blueish, but it is not that blue.

BTW, today I laid out all 12 panels in a 4W x 3H matrix and drove it as a single 12 panel output from a Raspberry Pi 3.  That allowed me to cut power and data cables to length.  I still don't have the plastic pieces that mechanically hold the panels together, so I just held them together with blue painters tape.  It was cool to be able to watch it play, and it worked quite well.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

im now debating going the Pi route too, Ed had mentioned the refresh rate is better and my screen is breaking up a lot using the BBB, does it make much sense to go crazy adding 2 Pi's to power my one screen? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The biggest disadvantage of the Pi, is only three outputs, so with two Pis, you would have six outputs available.  You might have to get a little creative with your panel size, but here is a possible arrangement:

Brichi_2_PI.png

Like the last time I did this for you, wiring is the main reason I did it this way.  The obvious easy answer would be each output driving one vertical column, however the cables that come with the panels are not long enough to do it that way.  This evenly distributes the panels with nine panels on each output.

 

 

Edited by k6ccc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that should work out good k6ccc, I just wonder if there will be an advantage to this before i waste another $200 or son on 2 pi's and the hub75

Edited by brichi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why don't you just hold off on buying anything for right now.

I have more parts showing up tomorrow to finish putting my P 10 panel with the color light card together. 

I should be able to give you more information once I have everything running or you can join in on the zoom meeting Wednesday night and ask some questions. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok great! thank you!   I know we talked about a lot privately but on your setup is it still possible to use bridge mode to control from LOR? i know a lot of people from what I'm reading using send/receive just to play video but now actually sequence it into specific parts of a sequenced song

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It should work in bridge mode but with a little bit of delay. 

The question is how bad is the delay going to be, will it be noticeable. 

Of course I'm just guessing at this for right now because I haven't got mine running yet. 

I have 2 P10 panels running from raspberry pi's and they work beautifully, running the P10 from the beaglebone didn't come close to the performance that I get from the Pi's. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm fine with a tiny delay cause i can start the video a tiny bit early to get the mouth and words to line up. the Pi may be a good route but i will wait to see how you make out. I guess either way I would need at least 1 Pi to even run the receiver board you have right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you need one pi to drive a color light board. 

Of course you would also need a class 10 SD card as well as a thumb drive for each pi and power supply. 

You can never have too many toys to play with. ;)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

I have 2 P10 panels running from raspberry pi's and they work beautifully, running the P10 from the beaglebone didn't come close to the performance that I get from the Pi's. 

Are you using SuperStar, by chance, to sequence the P10 panels?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remember you would need one pi per color light card so you'll probably want two of those to start. 

I'm not making any guarantees that this is the way to go. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Ed K said:

Are you using SuperStar, by chance, to sequence the P10 panels?

No. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×