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BrianBruderer

Sequences for the 16x25 LOR Tree are available!

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Many folks have asked for sequences for the 16x25 Tree that Light-O-Rama sells. It took me a while but I finally have 5 sequences for the 16x25 LOR Tree. The sequences are based on the 24x25 CCP Tree with Globe sequences. I used the "Move or Scale Selected Effects" feature to move and scale the sequencing and then did some manual modifications as well. I think the results turned out quite well. The sequences are available at the top of my sequence purchase page at www.superstarlights.com

I have "Wizards in Winter", "Carol of the Bells (Christmas Eve Sarajevo)", "Christmas Canon", "A Mad Russian's Christmas", and "All I Want for Christmas Is You".

Within the next week I hope to also have "Let It Go", "Feliz Navidad", "Rock Ye Merry Gentlemen", "Carol of the Bells by David Foster", and "Silent Night"

Below are videos for the 5 sequences I currently have:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mad skilz! 

As always your work is spot on.

JR

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Don't forget to grab the visualization when you are at it. I learned quite a bit about the 16X25 tree tonight speaking with Brian. The vis is at the bottom of the page, I understand nobody reads entire paragraphs these days but read his instructions. The vis file looks like a link. 

I have not stayed up to date with the tree and have helped others the only way I knew. Gave it a good effort and had made a vis file for someone when I had a little problem and contacted Brian. He then noticed my vis file and the conversation took off from there.

Thank you again Brian.

JR

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As dibblejr pointed out, you can get a visualization of the 16x25 LOR tree at the bottom of the sequence purchase page on my website at www.superstarlights.com

Note also, that if you purchase any of the sequences for the 16x25 LOR Tree, they come with the visualization as well. In other words, the installer for the sequences installs the .sup file and it also installs the visualization file.

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Which do you find better, the CCR or the CCP?? Tough to tell which one is better based on the visualizer videos.

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The 16X25 tree kit is only pixels not ribbon strips.

Last I knew.

JR

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22 minutes ago, JayA said:

Which do you find better, the CCR or the CCP?? Tough to tell which one is better based on the visualizer videos.

From my experience I think the CCP or CCB would be sturdier in the long run - if I had it to do over again I would not have used the ribbons.

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1 minute ago, jamills706 said:

 From my experience I think the CCP or CCB would be sturdier in the long run - if I had it to do over again I would not have used the ribbons.

They are asking about the 16X25 tree here. CCR strips are not offered. I don't think I would want to bend ribbon strips as they would need to be for the tree kit. 

With that being said my LOR strips feel a lot sturdier than my non LOR strips. I used some non LOR strips for my circles. I would be afraid to tighten those strips down as hard as I was able to tighten the LOR CCR strips on my 16X50  tree. Just the feel alone. When I pick up the LOR ribbons they just feel a lot more solid. When I pick up the others I can actually hear the paper that the rgbs are connected too, I can also see it move inside the cover. Something I did not notice in the LOR strips.

I made the frame and did a write up here using the ribbons. JAmes Morris built his based on my platform and used pixel nodes (WS2811's). I think they both look great. 

But yes for normal every day pixel nodes feel a lot stronger and are a lot more flexible than ribbons.

JR

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I have used both. My first tree was built with strips. I think the images looked better as it seems to form more of a solid picture. The strips are not very robust and bend very easily. On top of that it's about 18ft tall.

This season I built a pixel node tree because I was tired of moisture getting into the strips and causing random lights to stay on. The nodes still look good but the images are not as solid as a strip. But the ability to repair a node vs a strip... Wins hands down. And my tree is now 10ft which means I can move it myself and it stores in the garage without having to tear it down.

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28 minutes ago, gsmith37064 said:

I have used both. My first tree was built with strips. I think the images looked better as it seems to form more of a solid picture. The strips are not very robust and bend very easily. On top of that it's about 18ft tall.

This season I built a pixel node tree because I was tired of moisture getting into the strips and causing random lights to stay on. The nodes still look good but the images are not as solid as a strip. But the ability to repair a node vs a strip... Wins hands down. And my tree is now 10ft which means I can move it myself and it stores in the garage without having to tear it down.

That was my trouble with the ribbons - moisture seemed to get in there somehow - also had one or two that just failed mid-ribbon. They were covered by warranty- but still it was a pain to have to un-zip tie them and replace them. I have my ribbons attached with zip ties to 1/2" square aluminum tubing (which works great) - but even so those ribbons just seem to be so fragile!

 

I know this discussion was about trees - but thought I'd mention my experience with ribbons incase anyone was thinking about which to use for things other than a 16X25 (like a 16X50 for example). I made a 180-degree tree with the aluminum tubing and ribbons as well as a matrix --- but this year added the pre-made 16X25 tree kit from LOR and can't say enough about how impressed I am with that kit/tree!

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Yeah, I am looking at doing my first tree this year and wondering which is best, that's the reason I ask the question. I love the look of the CCR, but the price is a little higher then the CCP or CCB. I have seen the images on CCP and CCB, I definitely think the CCR is better for images, from what I can see.

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Posted (edited)

I have used my CCR tree for five years now with no issues, believe it or not I had an issue this year with the controller burning out a chip but the ribbons are still going strong.

As mentioned the ribbons are fragile so constant handling and bending will shorten their life. I have two recommendations when using the ribbons:

1) Use extra silicon on the end caps paying particular attention to where the wires enter the caps. If you have the three pin waterproof cables attached pay attention to where the shrink tube ends and put a dab of silicon there as well. I have never had an issue with water in my ribbons.

2) Mount your ribbons to something permanent and store it that way in the off season. This makes each leg about 18' long but it prevents all the handling and bending and the ribbons will be permanently straight, the #1 killer of ribbons is the constant bending.

I also use ribbons on my windows and they also have been good for five years. I mount them to 1/2 inch pvc and snap them in place, less handling and they are also stored that way.

I don't expect them to last forever but when you pay that much money for them you want a few years out of them.

Edited by Mr. P

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21 hours ago, Mr. P said:

 

I also use ribbons on my windows and they also have been good for five years. I mount them to 1/2 inch pvc and snap them in place, less handling and they are also stored that way.

So - are all of your windows 16-feet on a side? That is always my big question about lining windows, door, etc. (especially with ribbons) ... what do you do at the corners with the ribbons and what do you do with the extra length? 

I have thought of lining my windows and doors, etc with CCP or CCB because then I can turn the corner, but still...what do I do with the extra bulbs/pixels at the end?

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6 hours ago, jamills706 said:

So - are all of your windows 16-feet on a side? That is always my big question about lining windows, door, etc. (especially with ribbons) ... what do you do at the corners with the ribbons and what do you do with the extra length? 

I have thought of lining my windows and doors, etc with CCP or CCB because then I can turn the corner, but still...what do I do with the extra bulbs/pixels at the end?

Actually, my downstairs windows are 20' around so I have to add four feet nd upstairs windows are 16'. I just do an easy bend on the corners which is fine since the ribbons are never removed and aren't constantly handled.

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7 hours ago, jamills706 said:

So - are all of your windows 16-feet on a side? That is always my big question about lining windows, door, etc. (especially with ribbons) ... what do you do at the corners with the ribbons and what do you do with the extra length? 

I have thought of lining my windows and doors, etc with CCP or CCB because then I can turn the corner, but still...what do I do with the extra bulbs/pixels at the end?

You can cut them off or you can put black silicone over them or a black piece of tubing, rubber hose or even heat shrink tubing to cover the extra nodes.

JR

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24 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

Actually, my downstairs windows are 20' around so I have to add four feet nd upstairs windows are 16'. I just do an easy bend on the corners which is fine since the ribbons are never removed and aren't constantly handled.

Do you make a cut and bend or just a fold?

I am going to go with probably dumb strips since I have a cmb24 now around windows but smart on roof outline (pixies). 2018 will be my test going from leds to rgb's for outline stuff. Never thought Id like the looks of RGB but they grew on me. 

JR

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46 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

Do you make a cut and bend or just a fold?

I am going to go with probably dumb strips since I have a cmb24 now around windows but smart on roof outline (pixies). 2018 will be my test going from leds to rgb's for outline stuff. Never thought Id like the looks of RGB but they grew on me. 

JR

No cutting just an easy bend.

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I see on superstarlights.com that there is a way to convert a 12 CCR sequence to the 16x25 LOR Tree. Has anyone actually done this nd how does it come out visually? I ask as I really like the Silent Night (Mannheim Steamroller) 12 CCR sequence but can't visualize how it would look on the a 360 degree tree with the pixels strands "folded" as opposed to one full strand.

 

Love to hear from anyone that has gone through the conversion. Thanks all....

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Posted (edited)

Yes , you can however from my experience when these trees first came out it will not show as planned.

I did that for some people before Brian had put the actual 16x25 prop on his website. Also I didn’t know Brian had designed the SS prop file for it until he and I discussed the situation on the phone.

now if your donor sequence doesn’t include images or words you can probably get away with the method I was using and no one would ever know.

The people I helped were pleased to have lights however the sequence was not playing the same design as the actual sequence was set up on a straight  12 or 16x50 tree.

Not sure if Brian has cane out with a new way to get the full effects since I haven’t helped any people with the 16x25 trees in a while.

I think the way he is being referred to is resizing the current straight trees to larger or smaller sizes which is very easy in SS. But as mentioned doesn’t work well on folded trees.

Maybe Brian will chime in.

JR

Edited by dibblejr

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dibblejr noted "when these trees first came out it would not show as planned." I think he is referring to the fact that for a while there was a bug that I introduced that happened when you exported "half length" ribbons in CCR mode. The made it so only half each ribbon exported. That bug has been fixed and half length ribbons export properly in 4.3.34. Because the bug is fixed now, you can specify 8 ribbons in the CCR mode part of the Layout dialog box and it will create a grid of 16 half ribbons that will export properly onto the 16x25 tree.

However, even with that bug fixed, it is preferable to use the 16x25 visualization for the tree because it is a visualization of a 360 degree tree and you can import it in wrap around mode and then you can do spiral effects on the tree. There is a link to download the 16x25 visualization  at the bottom of the sequence purchase page on my website at www.superstarlights.com

Also, at the bottom of the sequence purchase page there are instructions on how to convert a sequence, below is a copy of those instructions. But I will first note that if you convert a full ribbon sequence to a 16x25 sequence you of course will lose detail in the effects because the resolution is lower. And also, a 360 degree tree has a different look to it. For example, in the case of Silent Night, many of the effects should look good, but the manger scene at the end isn't going to look good because of the decreased resolution. You can of course do manual modifications after the conversion that can help. As you can guess, the 16x25 sequences that I have at the top of my purchase page were created by first doing a conversion and then manually doing a lot of changes to improve upon the conversion.

16x25 LOR Tree

You can convert your sequences to play on the 16x25 360 degree tree that Light-O-Rama sells by doing the following:

  1. Right click on this visualization of a 16x25 360 degree tree and select "save link as"
  2. launch SuperStar
  3. Click on the File menu and select "Open" and open your 12 CCR sequence
  4. Click on the File menu and select "Import Visualization" and import the attached visualization
  5. Click on the File menu and select "Save As" and save the sequence to something like "Christmastime_16x25"
  6. Click on the Edit menu and select "Select All"
  7. Click on the Tools menu and select "Move or Scale Selected Effects"
  8. In the "Move or Scale Selected Effects" dialog box select "Scale"
    The settings should be as follows for a 12 CCR sequence:
    Source Width=12  Dest Width=16
    Source Height=50 Dest Height=25
    click on "Ok"
  9. Click on the File menu and select "Save"
  10. Click on the File menu and select "Export to Sequence Editor"
    Note that you will need the 8 CCR superstar license to be able to export the sequence to the sequence editor

Also note that the visualization uses the default Unit IDs of 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, and 08 for the tree.
If you want different unit IDs for the tree, first you will use the Hardware Utility to set a Unit ID in the controller.
For example, if you set unit ID 18 in the Pixie Controller that comes with your tree kit, the controller will use unit IDs 18, 19, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1D, 1E and 1F for the 8 strings of the tree.
You then launch the Light-O-Rama visualizer and open the 16x25 360 degree tree visualization. On the right is a list, click on "Fixtures" to list the fixtures. Double click on each fixture in the list and change the Unit ID to match what you have set for your tree. You then will go through steps 1-10 listed above.

 

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Brian, Thank you for the update, its been a while since I assisted anyone with this tree setup. This news is welcome.

it was nice talking to you at the mini. Always great to put a face with a name.

JR

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