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30 minutes ago, Septon said:

I have a vast length of woods and drive way... and I want to have lights all along it...

This statement and the one below raises a concern.  How long is your "vast length"?

46 minutes ago, Septon said:

And man... CAT 5... I LOVE IT!!  Making my life seem so easy.  It works fine?

Cat-5 is 24 AWG wire which is pretty small.  A 10W flood is a little over a quarter amp per color at 12 volts which is not a lot.  However running a long distance may cause problems with voltage drop.  24AWG copper wire has just over 25 ohms of resistance for every 1,000 feet.  So, let's say your driveway requires 250 feet of wire, that would be about 6 ohms.  With a quarter amp, that would be about a volt and a half drop in each direction, so the 12 volts would be down to about nine volts.  By comparison, 18 AWG is about six ohms per thousand feet.  Just something to keep in mind.  Santas Helper's runs are fairly short by comparison which may be why it works well for him.

 

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1 minute ago, k6ccc said:

This statement and the one below raises a concern.  How long is your "vast length"?

Cat-5 is 24 AWG wire which is pretty small.  A 10W flood is a little over a quarter amp per color at 12 volts which is not a lot.  However running a long distance may cause problems with voltage drop.  24AWG copper wire has just over 25 ohms of resistance for every 1,000 feet.  So, let's say your driveway requires 250 feet of wire, that would be about 6 ohms.  With a quarter amp, that would be about a volt and a half drop in each direction, so the 12 volts would be down to about nine volts.  By comparison, 18 AWG is about six ohms per thousand feet.  Just something to keep in mind.  Santas Helper's runs are fairly short by comparison which may be why it works well for him.

 

That is a great point, his is a few feet.  Mine may be 150'

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With 150 feet, I would be inclined to use heavier wire than Cat-5.  But I tend to operate rather conservatively.

 

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3 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

With 150 feet, I would be inclined to use heavier wire than Cat-5.  But I tend to operate rather conservatively.

 

But based on your theory, I could run 2 10watt per 4 channel if I twisted the wires together right?  And still run a 12 30a 360w?  (In theory)

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Just found those 10watt for $10/each.  Free shipping... Whoop Whoop

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8 minutes ago, Septon said:

But based on your theory, I could run 2 10watt per 4 channel if I twisted the wires together right?  And still run a 12 30a 360w?  (In theory)

Looking at the last part first.  You could max out at 36 10 watt floods on a single 360 watt power supply - although I personally would not want to exceed 28 (80% max load on the power supply).  The power supply and CMB24D could handle that.

On your first part, I assume you mean running two floods per three channels (not four).  That would be eight pairs of floods for the board or 16 floods total.  That would be well within the capabilities of the CMB24D and the power supply..  For your question about twisting the wires together, I assume you meant run a separate cable for each flood and twist the wires together at the CMB24D to connect to the controller.  That would not be a problem.  If you are running larger wire, you could run a single four conductor cable from the controller (one wire each for Red, Green, Blue, & Common +V), and then split that to two cables out near the two floods that will be lit the same if that would save some cable.  May depend on how you want to arrange the lights.

9 minutes ago, Septon said:

That description does not tell two important things.  For our purposes, the lights need to have a common positive and switched negative voltage.  I can't find anywhere on that description if that is the case.  The other is if the light has a built in controller that is expecting something like a DMX command, or has a remote to control it.  There is no mention of a controller or remote, so I would guess that it does not have one.  The polarity is also not mentioned, so it may or may not be correct - can't tell...

 

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2 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

Looking at the last part first.  You could max out at 36 10 watt floods on a single 360 watt power supply - although I personally would not want to exceed 28 (80% max load on the power supply).  The power supply and CMB24D could handle that.

On your first part, I assume you mean running two floods per three channels (not four).  That would be eight pairs of floods for the board or 16 floods total.  That would be well within the capabilities of the CMB24D and the power supply..  For your question about twisting the wires together, I assume you meant run a separate cable for each flood and twist the wires together at the CMB24D to connect to the controller.  That would not be a problem.  If you are running larger wire, you could run a single four conductor cable from the controller (one wire each for Red, Green, Blue, & Common +V), and then split that to two cables out near the two floods that will be lit the same if that would save some cable.  May depend on how you want to arrange the lights.

That description does not tell two important things.  For our purposes, the lights need to have a common positive and switched negative voltage.  I can't find anywhere on that description if that is the case.  The other is if the light has a built in controller that is expecting something like a DMX command, or has a remote to control it.  There is no mention of a controller or remote, so I would guess that it does not have one.  The polarity is also not mentioned, so it may or may not be correct - can't tell...

 

OK... so Awesome, I was thinking of running 16 tops, so 8 Pair!  Like the daisy chain idea.

 

As for the rest... I am on a "SLOOOOOW CHAT" with these guys I will ask them.  I am 90% there... If I get this part squared away I learned a lot today, and will have to learn how to program RBG haha.

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12 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

That description does not tell two important things.  For our purposes, the lights need to have a common positive and switched negative voltage.  I can't find anywhere on that description if that is the case.  The other is if the light has a built in controller that is expecting something like a DMX command, or has a remote to control it.  There is no mention of a controller or remote, so I would guess that it does not have one.  The polarity is also not mentioned, so it may or may not be correct - can't tell...

 

Ok... here is the response.

It has two wires, the anode and cathode, which directly connect the 12V voltage
if you want RGB , it have  a remote controller 

 

So I take it that last part, a remote controller is bad?

 

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8 minutes ago, Septon said:

Ok... here is the response.


It has two wires, the anode and cathode, which directly connect the 12V voltage

if you want RGB , it have  a remote controller 

 

So I take it that last part, a remote controller is bad?

 

Ok this was updated. 

With a control panel, a remote controller. You can directly through the remote control lamp

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7 minutes ago, Septon said:

It has two wires, the anode and cathode, which directly connect the 12V voltage

if you want RGB , it have  a remote controller 

So I take it that last part, a remote controller is bad?

Yes.  You may be able to hack it, but would not work directly.

Just now, Septon said:

Ok this was updated. 


With a control panel, a remote controller. You can directly through the remote control lamp

My answer to that is "Say what?"  That answer does not make sense...  Maybe I don't speak Chinese well enough :)

 

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4 hours ago, Mr. P said:

I wouldn't recommend that wire as it is 22awg wire. For the longer runs you want to go with a thicker wire, 18awg minimum as the issue with the longer runs is the voltage drop due to resistance in the wire. Thicker wire such as 18awg or better would mean less voltage drop over the longer span.

Ditto.

maybe for very 12V sort runs  (forget it for 5Vruns over 3')

40', I would do 16Ga minimum for a 5M strip (~4A). bump it anothe ga (14) for longer or 2 strips.

Dim lights will be the issue with small wire.

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5 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

Dim lights will be the issue with small wire.

And color shifts.

 

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HTB19FoRb1ALL1JjSZFj761sqXXaj.png

That is the image they shared, I only see 2 wires. 

So must be a controller in there I guess... ??? 

 

 

 

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I suspect that is the single color version.

 

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Further down the page in the "Product Parameters" it states input power 100-240v.

Lumens 900 Beam Angle 120
Power Consumption 10 W CE & RoHS Certified Yes
Input Power 100-240V Size 115 x 86 x 72mm
Wattage No Equivalent To 80 Watts
Average Life in Hrs 100,000 work Voltage DC 12V
Base To Power Outlet Dimmable (Option) No
Bulb Type LED Colour cool white/warm white/RGB

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Just now, Mr. P said:

Further down the page in the "Product Parameters" it states input power 100-240v.

Lumens 900 Beam Angle 120
Power Consumption 10 W CE & RoHS Certified Yes
Input Power 100-240V Size 115 x 86 x 72mm
Wattage No Equivalent To 80 Watts
Average Life in Hrs 100,000 work Voltage DC 12V
Base To Power Outlet Dimmable (Option) No
Bulb Type LED Colour cool white/warm white/RGB

Umm greek to me. :) Does that mean we are good?  (I think Jim was referring to that image as the single colour if that is what we are referring too). 

 

 

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For RGB , The appearance is the same, with a remote control

 

Damn... so it has a remote and no other options.  Damn.

Think it would be hard to hack guys?

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Just now, Septon said:

Umm greek to me. :) Does that mean we are good?  (I think Jim was referring to that image as the single colour if that is what we are referring too). 

 

 

To me that means that it is plugged in to a 100-240v source or power outlet and the internals convert it to 12vdc.

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1 minute ago, Mr. P said:

To me that means that it is plugged in to a 100-240v source or power outlet and the internals convert it to 12vdc.

SHe said

2 wires, connect 12V  With a remote.

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Run, don't walk away from this deal.

The funny part is that the header at the top says it's 12 volts.  Sounds like these dudes don't know what they are doing.  Likely too much Copy and Paste between specs.  Translation:  No idea what you would actually be getting.

 

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1 minute ago, k6ccc said:

Run, don't walk away from this deal.

The funny part is that the header at the top says it's 12 volts.  Sounds like these dudes don't know what they are doing.  Likely too much Copy and Paste between specs.  Translation:  No idea what you would actually be getting.

 

+1, just keep it simple and find one that actually has the four wires coming out.

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Just now, k6ccc said:

Run, don't walk away from this deal.

The funny part is that the header at the top says it's 12 volts.  Sounds like these dudes don't know what they are doing.  Likely too much Copy and Paste between specs.  Translation:  No idea what you would actually be getting.

 

Ok I will try another again.  If I can find those Lights for $10-15 I will do CMD24 if not, I will .  If not, I will go with the CTB 16

 

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Wait, look at this again.


IS that not power (small cable) and RBG other cables?

I agree... they don't know what they are saying... but the imagine is specific (and different than what they shared)

HTB1nUGFKFXXXXb6XXXXq6xXFXXXk.jpg

HTB1yViFKFXXXXcAXXXXq6xXFXXXg.jpg

 

 

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