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CampbellHouse

RGB Pixie16 with lights from LOR - Testing

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Currently using standard LOR controllers but wanted to expand show and add an RGB tree. Bought the kit during the sale so I have the Pixie16 controller ready to go and the 16/50 pixels strips. My question - Is there a way to just run some test patterns through the RGB pixels so I can see what they look like? Or do I have to go through the setup and add it to my network?

Thanks - 

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The manual says, (a short) push the reset test button after it boots

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On my Pixie4, if you press and hold the button on the board it will sequentially light the pixels on all strings simultaneously. First in red, then green, then blue.  I would assume it would be the same for the 8 and 16.

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I made a sequence just to have the pixels run through a test. Nothing fancy just lots of different colors and patterns. I have not connected mine to my network since my matrix is not complete. The lights are just laying on the floor in my man cave.

JR

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Ok so i think I'm going to try and set this controller up on my LOR network so I can create some test sequences. My question is this - I have some CTB16PC controllers running right now and bought some new ones recently. Now I have the  Pixie16. In reading the instructions it sounds like I need to set up different networks. How do I know if I need to? I know it has something to do with ELOR but how do I know if my controllers will run it?

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36 minutes ago, CampbellHouse said:

Ok so i think I'm going to try and set this controller up on my LOR network so I can create some test sequences. My question is this - I have some CTB16PC controllers running right now and bought some new ones recently. Now I have the  Pixie16. In reading the instructions it sounds like I need to set up different networks. How do I know if I need to? I know it has something to do with ELOR but how do I know if my controllers will run it?

If all your CTB16PC's are Gen 3, they understand Enhanced. If you have older ones, then you either need:

to split off those  to  a basic LOR network (which is what your USB adapter is and run the new stuff on a HS adapter

or just run on the standard LOR network and see if it can keep up with your show

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1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

... or just run on the standard LOR network and see if it can keep up with your show

Unless all you're doing is working with solid colors to test ribbons, the odds are staggering against your regular-speed USB being able to keep up with 16 ribbons.  Maybe even unheard of...

 

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CampbellHouse,

One option you have is to get a USB485-HS adapter (http://store.lightorama.com/usbrs485hs.html) for you Pixie16. You would plug the USB into a free USB port on your PC (this will create an additional new network) and plug the lan cable into your Pixie16. In the LOR Network config, set the Comm Port, Speed and check the Enhanced LOR Network box. The price of  the USB485-HS adapter is $31.95 and well worth it by preventing headaches later on as your show grows.

This is a pic of how I have my networks setup in LOR Network Config. The highlighted AUX E network is how I have 1 of my Pixie16's setup. AUX F is the other.

lor%20network%20config.png

I agree with George, you would be asking your current network (with the CTB16PC's) to do a lot. Keep in mind your Pixie16 with 16 strands of 50 LEDs is 2,400 channels. IMO, Ideally you want your Pixie16 to run on it's own network this will reduce the chance of lag to all your controllers (i.e. your entire show)

Also, when you add your Pixie16 to Sequence Editor it will use 16 Unit ID's (1 Unit ID per port) This will become important later if you add more controllers because you will have to remember how many Unit ID's you are currently using. As of right now this may not seem important. By keeping this info written down somewhere will help later on as you add more controllers. This is an example of how I keep track of my networks. This is just the info added into a spreadsheet and saved in my LOR directory for future reference. Just writing it down would work also. I added the latest Firmware column as a quick reference, so I don't need to drag out each controller and check it's current firmware version.

LOR%20Comm%20Ports3a.png

If you notice in the pic above the Pixie16 on Comm8 starts at Unit ID 15 and ends on Unit 24. This means my next controller (which is also a Pixie16) must start at Unit25. (it could start at 26, 27 etc.) just not below 25, I have found it wise to number the Unit ID's sequentially to avoid confusion. For those looking real close,  yes I have to update the Pixie16 on Comm9 with an ending Unit ID # - I forgot to do it when I updated this list last. :huh:

Alan...

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Thanks everyone for your help! ? Now I have a much better understanding of how things should work. 

Will setup the Pixie on its own - with the USB485-HS adapter. 

Two final questions - 1) I checked all my controllers and 1 is a standard CTB16PC and the others are Gen 3 - Will it hurt anything to have them all on the same network or should I put them on their own also? All lights they will be driving are LED. 2) May add some RGB arches - would they require another adapter and network or could I add them to the Pixie16 network?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

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50 minutes ago, CampbellHouse said:

Thanks everyone for your help! ? Now I have a much better understanding of how things should work. 

Will setup the Pixie on its own - with the USB485-HS adapter. 

Two final questions - 1) I checked all my controllers and 1 is a standard CTB16PC and the others are Gen 3 - Will it hurt anything to have them all on the same network or should I put them on their own also? All lights they will be driving are LED. 2) May add some RGB arches - would they require another adapter and network or could I add them to the Pixie16 network?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

The Gen3 will detect the mode (standard LOR) and run fine together.. The old one will not like (at all) the newer protocol.

There is a nice chart somewhere on the LOR site on which devices work with which adapters. (The adapter setting sets the mode)

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18 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

The Gen3 will detect the mode (standard LOR) and run fine together.. The old one will not like (at all) the newer protocol.

There is a nice chart somewhere on the LOR site on which devices work with which adapters. (The adapter setting sets the mode)

http://www1.lightorama.com/network-speeds/

 

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Thanks everyone for your help! ? Now I have a much better understanding of how things should work. 

Will setup the Pixie on its own - with the USB485-HS adapter. 

Two final questions - 1) I checked all my controllers and 1 is a standard CTB16PC and the others are Gen 3 - Will it hurt anything to have them all on the same network or should I put them on their own also? All lights they will be driving are LED. 2) May add some RGB arches - would they require another adapter and network or could I add them to the Pixie16 network?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

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Ok so now I don't feel so overwhelmed by everything - I appreciate all the feedback. 

Last question - Do I need to worry about power for this setup? On LOR website they said it was basically plug and play but other things I read about RGB say they sometimes need additional power. 

Thanks

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18 hours ago, default said:

CampbellHouse,

One option you have is to get a USB485-HS adapter (http://store.lightorama.com/usbrs485hs.html) for you Pixie16. You would plug the USB into a free USB port on your PC (this will create an additional new network) and plug the lan cable into your Pixie16. In the LOR Network config, set the Comm Port, Speed and check the Enhanced LOR Network box. The price of  the USB485-HS adapter is $31.95 and well worth it by preventing headaches later on as your show grows.

This is a pic of how I have my networks setup in LOR Network Config. The highlighted AUX E network is how I have 1 of my Pixie16's setup. AUX F is the other.

lor%20network%20config.png

I agree with George, you would be asking your current network (with the CTB16PC's) to do a lot. Keep in mind your Pixie16 with 16 strands of 50 LEDs is 2,400 channels. IMO, Ideally you want your Pixie16 to run on it's own network this will reduce the chance of lag to all your controllers (i.e. your entire show)

Also, when you add your Pixie16 to Sequence Editor it will use 16 Unit ID's (1 Unit ID per port) This will become important later if you add more controllers because you will have to remember how many Unit ID's you are currently using. As of right now this may not seem important. By keeping this info written down somewhere will help later on as you add more controllers. This is an example of how I keep track of my networks. This is just the info added into a spreadsheet and saved in my LOR directory for future reference. Just writing it down would work also. I added the latest Firmware column as a quick reference, so I don't need to drag out each controller and check it's current firmware version.

LOR%20Comm%20Ports3a.png

If you notice in the pic above the Pixie16 on Comm8 starts at Unit ID 15 and ends on Unit 24. This means my next controller (which is also a Pixie16) must start at Unit25. (it could start at 26, 27 etc.) just not below 25, I have found it wise to number the Unit ID's sequentially to avoid confusion. For those looking real close,  yes I have to update the Pixie16 on Comm9 with an ending Unit ID # - I forgot to do it when I updated this list last. :huh:

Alan...

Thanks Alan - this is good advise - I definitely will use Excel to keep track!

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Having a Pro license, I do too. But I have both of the pages I linked above bookmarked because I reference them or link them so often.


Sent from my phone using Tapatalk, so blame any typos on Android!

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2 hours ago, CampbellHouse said:

Two final questions -

1) I checked all my controllers and 1 is a standard CTB16PC and the others are Gen 3 - Will it hurt anything to have them all on the same network or should I put them on their own also? All lights they will be driving are LED.

2) May add some RGB arches - would they require another adapter and network or could I add them to the Pixie16 network?

1) 1 network running at 56K should be fine for your CTB16PC's. One way to look at it is that 1 - CTB16PC's  = 16 channels, 2 - CTB16PC's = 32 channels, etc.. In comparison the Pixie16 has 2,400 channels which is why it should have it's own network (you may get by with very simple color changes but it will choke when you start adding more complex sequences). So to sum up if you run 1 Regular network for all of your CTB16PC's  and 1 Hi Speed network with the USB485-HS adapter and your Pixie16, you should be fine.

2) This would depend on the Controller you would use for the arches. Again the thing to pay attention to is the channel count per network. Smart RGB's use more channels. In the case of your Pixie16, you have 16 strands of 50 LED's this equals 800 smart RGB LED's. Each smart RGB LED requires 3 channels, (1 for Red, 1 for Green, and 1 for Green - all other colors are a result of mixing these colors) So your 800 smart RGB pixels X 3 (channels) = the 2,400 channels. In my experience so far with the Pixie16's, I am running 1 Pixie16 per network and have not had a problem with lag. The cost of the USB485-HS adapter is cheap enough to easily add another network. The addition of the "Enhanced Network" and saving files as Intensity are also helpful. This requires the Pro License mentioned above.

Keep in mind also, if you plan to use Superstar for sequencing, you may have to upgrade it also to cover the channel count.

 

2 hours ago, CampbellHouse said:

Last question - Do I need to worry about power for this setup? On LOR website they said it was basically plug and play but other things I read about RGB say they sometimes need additional power.

I am unsure how many CTB16PC's you have, so it's kind of hard to answer the question. However if it's at all possible you could always put the Pixie16 on another circuit.

 

Alan...

 

 

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11 hours ago, default said:

1) 1 network running at 56K should be fine for your CTB16PC's. One way to look at it is that 1 - CTB16PC's  = 16 channels, 2 - CTB16PC's = 32 channels, etc.. In comparison the Pixie16 has 2,400 channels which is why it should have it's own network (you may get by with very simple color changes but it will choke when you start adding more complex sequences). So to sum up if you run 1 Regular network for all of your CTB16PC's  and 1 Hi Speed network with the USB485-HS adapter and your Pixie16, you should be fine.

2) This would depend on the Controller you would use for the arches. Again the thing to pay attention to is the channel count per network. Smart RGB's use more channels. In the case of your Pixie16, you have 16 strands of 50 LED's this equals 800 smart RGB LED's. Each smart RGB LED requires 3 channels, (1 for Red, 1 for Green, and 1 for Green - all other colors are a result of mixing these colors) So your 800 smart RGB pixels X 3 (channels) = the 2,400 channels. In my experience so far with the Pixie16's, I am running 1 Pixie16 per network and have not had a problem with lag. The cost of the USB485-HS adapter is cheap enough to easily add another network. The addition of the "Enhanced Network" and saving files as Intensity are also helpful. This requires the Pro License mentioned above.

Keep in mind also, if you plan to use Superstar for sequencing, you may have to upgrade it also to cover the channel count.

 

I am unsure how many CTB16PC's you have, so it's kind of hard to answer the question. However if it's at all possible you could always put the Pixie16 on another circuit.

 

Alan...

 

 

 

11 hours ago, default said:

1) 1 network running at 56K should be fine for your CTB16PC's. One way to look at it is that 1 - CTB16PC's  = 16 channels, 2 - CTB16PC's = 32 channels, etc.. In comparison the Pixie16 has 2,400 channels which is why it should have it's own network (you may get by with very simple color changes but it will choke when you start adding more complex sequences). So to sum up if you run 1 Regular network for all of your CTB16PC's  and 1 Hi Speed network with the USB485-HS adapter and your Pixie16, you should be fine.

2) This would depend on the Controller you would use for the arches. Again the thing to pay attention to is the channel count per network. Smart RGB's use more channels. In the case of your Pixie16, you have 16 strands of 50 LED's this equals 800 smart RGB LED's. Each smart RGB LED requires 3 channels, (1 for Red, 1 for Green, and 1 for Green - all other colors are a result of mixing these colors) So your 800 smart RGB pixels X 3 (channels) = the 2,400 channels. In my experience so far with the Pixie16's, I am running 1 Pixie16 per network and have not had a problem with lag. The cost of the USB485-HS adapter is cheap enough to easily add another network. The addition of the "Enhanced Network" and saving files as Intensity are also helpful. This requires the Pro License mentioned above.

Keep in mind also, if you plan to use Superstar for sequencing, you may have to upgrade it also to cover the channel count.

 

I am unsure how many CTB16PC's you have, so it's kind of hard to answer the question. However if it's at all possible you could always put the Pixie16 on another circuit.

 

Alan...

 

 

Thanks Alan for the follow up. My fault my question wasn't clear. I was actually talking about adding power injection to the pixel strings. I would hope that the Pixel16 box was built to run the 16x50 strings without it or it would have said something about it right? I'm sure it's good - just me being over engineering as usual!

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No need to add power injection to the pixie strings. Just plug them and go :D

Alan...

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So now I have my networks all set up - Big thank you to everyone for your help. Have my Pixie16 setup on its own network running ELOR and the additional 16 channel controllers running in standard mode on their own network. 

So now I'm trying to program in SE - I add my new P16 and see everything - all channels when I drill all the way down to the lowest level so I think it's in right. I add to the sequence and it turns on the lights but I can't change colors. It's just white. I know I'm missing something - is there a good tutorial that walks through this or does anyone have an idea of what I'm doing wrong?

Also is it ok if I create a 180 tree with 12 of the 16 and then make arches out of the remaining 4?

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Since you are going to sequence in SE you must use the color fade tool in the top bar to get your different colors unless you are more advanced and know how to select colors manually.

You mentioned that all your channels come out white. You are not breaking the channels down far enough. The RGB channels on the left are black, if you click on a black channel it opens R, G and B channels. If you attempt to manually put a sequence in the Black channels it will always come out white as you will be turning on the R, G and B channels 100%. You will need to turn on the individual Red, Green and Blue channels if you don't want white.

For beginners the color fade tool at the top is the easiest way to go.

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Why don't you just ask for a free sequence from one of us that share. That will help you watch the sequence and the color patterns. Most of us use SS but it is pricey. Personally all of mine are made by someone else here as I produce the singing face portion.

Look for my sharing threads and JAmes Morris, I am sure we can share a few with you. At least you can see your lights work.

 

JR

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Also is it ok if I create a 180 tree with 12 of the 16 and then make arches out of the remaining 4?

Yes, you can use them any way you want. One major thing to keep in mind is cable length between the controller and the first pixel. Depends on the pixel technology, but the limit can be as little as five to ten feet. Most can go longer, and there are several things you can do to extend that distance. I would suggest that you test the distance that you plan on doing now rather than setting up in November and finding it it does not work right. Feel free to ask questions if this does not make sense.


Sent from my phone using Tapatalk, so blame any typos on Android!

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Hi all - Thanks to everyone's help on here I now have everything working and I've been working on programming the Pixie16 - 12 for a tree and the other four for arches. Using PE and saving the intensity file. Set up Visualizer file and everything looks good but I'm just wondering if I'm doing it different than others. Do most people program RGBs in SE? I wouldn't think so but I'm wondering if I'm just not getting something here? Also does anyone know of a good tutorial to show how to bring in xlight effects into PE? They have some effects I like that aren't in PE. 

Thanks again for all the advise /answers to all my questions. I'm getting a little panicked that I won't finish by Thanksgiving. ?

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