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Case for Pixie16 and 2 P/S'?

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Ebuechner    182
43 minutes ago, brichi said:

guys, being this is my first year doing this i had a question about the power, do you guys plug in all your boxes and leave them powered up the whole time outside during the holiday season or do you put them on a timer to come on a few minutes before and after you hours of shows?

Leave them powered up.

Sometimes issues can arise by powering them on and off. Basically get everything up and running and leave it alone.

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dibblejr    375
8 hours ago, George Simmons said:

Go empty out a closet and then sit down in there with a portable space heater running and see, even with the door open, how quickly it gets uncomfortable.

For maximum unpowered heat dissipation your best bet is for cool air to enter the enclosure at the bottom and be vented out as close as possible to the top.  Given your locale, passive venting might not be enough for what you're doing.

I may be wrong because I'm just a military guy and not an electronic component expert but I believe a pcb can take more heat than a human being.  Our field equipment will outlast a soldier in the heat.

now if it gets hot enough in the enclosure to melt the solder connections then yes we are in trouble.

I will put mine through a test as it warms up and if there is a problem can add a $6 fan

JR

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Ebuechner    182
6 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

I may be wrong because I'm just a military guy and not an electronic component expert but I believe a pcb can take more heat than a human being.  Our field equipment will outlast a soldier in the heat.

now if it gets hot enough in the enclosure to melt the solder connections then yes we are in trouble.

I will put mine through a test as it warms up and if there is a problem can add a $6 fan

JR

If I was you I would invest in the fan up front. Better safe than sorry.

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TheDucks    27
2 hours ago, brichi said:

guys, being this is my first year doing this i had a question about the power, do you guys plug in all your boxes and leave them powered up the whole time outside during the holiday season or do you put them on a timer to come on a few minutes before and after you hours of shows?

Thank you for asking this question. I am also a Newbie and was wondering the same thing as my show only runs 4 hours (1700-2100) .

Will the LOR network behave nice with these being off (and coming on)

I will say from years of IT equipment power, that if you have many 300+W  PSU that they should not all be POWERED UP at the same , the inrush current is huge and breakers will not be happy :rolleyes:

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TheDucks    27
1 hour ago, Ebuechner said:

If I was you I would invest in the fan up front. Better safe than sorry.

Ex Navy ET here :) (with year of Semiconductor and telecom industry experience)

Heat is hardest on Filter Capacitors . Chips typically want to run under 80C (the insides get hotter)

Your Mil$pec equipment has heavy duty part$ that have been rated for extremes.

Many LOR and others run the TO220 packs without heatsinks (optional HS kits available) because they do not expect the temps our troops have seen.

 

And you don't need a room heater to bring a CLOSED closet past uncomfortable. a 100W bulb was used in my sisters 'easy bake oven' to make cookies

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dibblejr    375
1 minute ago, TheDucks said:

Ex Navy ET here :) (with year of Semiconductor and telecom industry experience)

Heat is hardest on Filter Capacitors . Chips typically want to run under 80C (the insides get hotter)

Your Mil$pec equipment has heavy duty part$ that have been rated for extremes.

Many LOR and others run the TO220 packs without heatsinks (optional HS kits available) because they do not expect the temps our troops have seen.

 

And you don't need a room heater to bring a CLOSED closet past uncomfortable. a 100W bulb was used in my sisters 'easy bake oven' to make cookies

I remember those easy bake ovens LOL Yes I know that mil spec equipment is made for the environments (25 plus years of AFS). Was using that as an example.

Using your statement 80C is about 160F, still much more than a human can take.

Thank you for your service!

 

JR

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k6ccc    499
guys, being this is my first year doing this i had a question about the power, do you guys plug in all your boxes and leave them powered up the whole time outside during the holiday season or do you put them on a timer to come on a few minutes before and after you hours of shows?

Leave them on. I run a year round landscape lighting show so I have three CMB16D DC controllers, an InputPup, one CTB-16 and one CTB-08 AC controllers, and two SanDevices E6804 pixel controllers that are powered up 24x7x365. Other than a 20 second power outage a couple months ago, several of those have not been powered down since they were installed (2013 in the case of one of the E6804s). The show computer also runs 24x7x365, although it does get re-booted daily.
For Christmas I add three SanDevices E682s, and three CCP controllers, and they are powered up in early November and stay up until early January.
Much greater chance of electronic devices crapping out at power up vs staying on (unless you are cooking them).


Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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k6ccc    499
The heat comes when you're driving a bunch of pixels.  There shouldn't EVER be a problem with just the PS running and the board powered up.

George, you're thinking as if it was an AC or DC controller - which will produce more heat with lots of load on the controller. A pixel controller is only delivering a low level data signal on each output which does not care if there is one pixel or 100 pixels downstream of the controller. For most of us the power for those pixels does pass through the controller PC board, but is not switched by the board. You should not be able to detect any temperature rise without sensitive test equipment unless there are some bad connections or undersized wire. Just for grins, I do have access to a moderately high end FLIR IR camera and have set a calendar reminder to take some photos with it next November after I set up my pixel tree.


Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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dibblejr    375
2 hours ago, k6ccc said:


George, you're thinking as if it was an AC or DC controller - which will produce more heat with lots of load on the controller. A pixel controller is only delivering a low level data signal on each output which does not care if there is one pixel or 100 pixels downstream of the controller. For most of us the power for those pixels does pass through the controller PC board, but is not switched by the board. You should not be able to detect any temperature rise without sensitive test equipment unless there are some bad connections or undersized wire. Just for grins, I do have access to a moderately high end FLIR IR camera and have set a calendar reminder to take some photos with it next November after I set up my pixel tree.


Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android
 

Nice on the thermal detection FLIR camera. 18 of my 36 cameras are FLIR, 8 of them color night vision, but other than one of my rifle scopes I have no thermal detection devices.

JR

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k6ccc    499

The temp guns are surprisingly good for what you pay for them.  I can't cost justify a $1500 FLIR either, but a friend has one.  I could likely use the MUCH nicer FLIR camera on one of our police helicopters, but taking my pixel tree over to the heliport would not be practical!  Those cameras are REALLY nice - along with the 16 million candlepower flashlight they have (only takes 65 amps at 28 volts).

 

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