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CampbellHouse

LED light strings vs RGB - power consumption.

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New to LOR this year - first successful season with just one contoller / 16 channels but everyone loved it! Have about 2000 led lghts but would like to add some more for next year. Like the look of RGB and thinking about adding a 10' tree - also thought about switching the led lights along the outline of my house to RGB. Have been reading a lot and I feel like I'm getting myself more confused with it! :-)

What I'm really concerned about is power consumption so my question is this - if I replaced my current led (mostly C9 & C7 type) with RGB pixels how much more power would my display use? 

 When I was using incandescents it would flip the breaker sometimes. Hasn't happened since I changed to LEDs and I've added more lights each year. 

Before I spend the money I'd like to get some more information from the experts here. 

Thanks,

CambellHouse

 

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Tip: Get a 'Kill-A-Watt" meter so you will Know what each AC cord/plug is running at

If it does not have an AC Plug, it will have a PSU somewhere  (controller, injection point) to run it..  Measure that (with All controlled LEDS on steady WHITE)

Also, don't push your PSU capacity. 350W means you should never RUN at that load. 350 would be the OUTPUT. The INPUT may be 415W (@90% typical efficiency)

.Also: Keep them supplied with cool air. IMHO A (closed) Plastic box is an INSULATED box. (that is another reason LOR puts their Pro controllers in Metal: Those run HARD and for long shows)

Also watch the Loads you attach on each controller output. the LOR RGB/DC boards indicate loads without and with extra heatsinks. Like the PSU, a cool box interior is needed for best life expectancy.

RGB node specs usually state the "white" (all colors on) load, 3 LEDs, expect more than Singles.  How much more, depends on what node you use

 

BTW Your 'Tripped' breakers means you were seriously violating the 80% rule. Most GOOD breakers will 'hold' at 120% for hours, 400% for minutes.

If your breakers are from the 50's, don't trust them. Get a Pro out quick to check that you don't have FPE which routinely failed to trip  :o  Zinsco from the 60's were also prone to problems. (Baked) Brown is never a good color to see in power circuits. (I've pulled Zinscos from panels, that literally crumbled as I removed them)

HOT plugs/cords (can't keep your hand on) is never acceptable. Either they are too small of wire or the have a long term load over12Amps (5-15P, a standard room outlet)

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keep in mind, RGB pixels will not run from the ac controllers you run your led's from.  You will need a different type of controller (E1.31 type).  RGB pixels (ribbons) are DC (5 volt or 12 volt) not 120 AC.

 

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13 hours ago, TheDucks said:

Tip: Get a 'Kill-A-Watt" meter so you will Know what each AC cord/plug is running at

If it does not have an AC Plug, it will have a PSU somewhere  (controller, injection point) to run it..  Measure that (with All controlled LEDS on steady WHITE)

Also, don't push your PSU capacity. 350W means you should never RUN at that load. 350 would be the OUTPUT. The INPUT may be 415W (@90% typical efficiency)

.Also: Keep them supplied with cool air. IMHO A (closed) Plastic box is an INSULATED box. (that is another reason LOR puts their Pro controllers in Metal: Those run HARD and for long shows)

Also watch the Loads you attach on each controller output. the LOR RGB/DC boards indicate loads without and with extra heatsinks. Like the PSU, a cool box interior is needed for best life expectancy.

RGB node specs usually state the "white" (all colors on) load, 3 LEDs, expect more than Singles.  How much more, depends on what node you use

 

BTW Your 'Tripped' breakers means you were seriously violating the 80% rule. Most GOOD breakers will 'hold' at 120% for hours, 400% for minutes.

If your breakers are from the 50's, don't trust them. Get a Pro out quick to check that you don't have FPE which routinely failed to trip  :o  Zinsco from the 60's were also prone to problems. (Baked) Brown is never a good color to see in power circuits. (I've pulled Zinscos from panels, that literally crumbled as I removed them)

HOT plugs/cords (can't keep your hand on) is never acceptable. Either they are too small of wire or the have a long term load over12Amps (5-15P, a standard room outlet)

Thanks TheDucks for your advise. Will pick one up. Breakers are good - newer ones. 

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7 hours ago, jerrymac said:

keep in mind, RGB pixels will not run from the ac controllers you run your led's from.  You will need a different type of controller (E1.31 type).  RGB pixels (ribbons) are DC (5 volt or 12 volt) not 120 AC.

 

Thanks Jerrymac - I have at least figured that much out. So on one of the E1.31 how many pixels would it typically handle. And this whole power injection thing has me confused. Plus all the different kinds of RGBs - ?

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