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brichi

Bad Ray Wu strip or Pixie4 cant handle it?

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Hi, I just received this  product, 300 LEDS 100 pixels, wired it to  pixie4 LOR board and as soon as i plug the power into the board half of the strip lights up bright white, i dont have anything else like ethernet cvable even plugged in, only power to board, then when i plug in ethernet only the first pixel is controllable, all others stay bright white and heat up, the send half of the strip doesnt come on at all. When i plug in my other CCR from LOR everything works as it should. Not sure what to do at this point, anyone ever see this? Bad strip?

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and now I cant get the pixie4 to even work at all, I think the Ray strip blew the board

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1. confirm the voltages. If 12 volt pixels start by setting your power supply at 11.8 volts with a multi-meter

2. Make sure you set the light protocols before you plug in any lights. Such as how many pixels on that output, output type 2811

3. Double and triple check the wiring pattern on the Strip of pixels. Especially with overseas LED strips don't assume the color pattern of the wires.

4. Confirm the direction of the pixels.

5. When you've got this far make sure you test from the controller first before you plug it into a computer.

From your description it sounds like something was hooked up incorrectly like sending power through the data line or too much voltage. If the controller isn't working start by checking for power and checking fuses once again with a multimeter. In this hobby there's a few things that I would consider a must have one is a decent multimeter another one is a CAT5 cable tester

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thank you, yes I tested all, I hooked up the wiring correctly, didn't go by color pattern, went by + DT - like all the other strips, the direction was correct also

I didn't even have the cat5 plugged in, only power to the pixie4 and when I plugged in the strip half of it lit up bright white, and now nothing. the pixie4 just gets really hot with a blinking red status light, can't even run a reset on it

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Did you make sure you had the right protocol output for the light set on the controller? I think I did that once if I remember right all the lights came on White until I changed the protocol. Also look at the strip closely to check the voltage it should be marked there someplace just in case you were sent the wrong strip.

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voltage was defintely correct,

not sure how to set the output but the previous strip was 2811 CCR from LOR also

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Unlikely that the strip damaged the Pixie unless it was wired wrong - and even that would likely only blow the fuse.

The initial test where half the strip lit up all white is a fairly common failure mode for WS2811 pixels.  That failure mode is that a failed pixel will output all white to the downstream pixels.  However your poorly spelled statement (I think) is that the first pixel is controllable and the rest of the first half of the strip first half light up solid white and the second half did not light up at all.  This may be the common failure mode - at least for the all white first half.  I can't explain the second half being dead (maybe). 

 

 

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thank you, sucks that the board doesnt work anymore, I can assure you that it was wired correctly, I have done a bunch before and pay extra attention to it

 

Yes some of the original post has typos, sorry, cant edit i guess?

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at this point now i cant even get the pc to see the pixie4 anymore, when i do auto config it says nothing is found on COM5 which is where is always was. Checked the ports and the usb to ethernet is still on com5. very strange. everythig was working perfect until i started playing with this Ray Wu strip

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thats my screen, everything connected and on but not being recognized anymore. the bottom of teh pixie cannot even be touched its so hot, just had to turn it off

 

Untitled.png

Edited by brichi

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So you don't start pointing fingers where you obviously have no clue of fault, consider finding out what the issue is first before starting off blaming someone's product in a public forum.. Might be a good idea.. just sayin..

It is highly unlikely that pixel strip blew the board if wired correctly. Let me repeat, It is highly unlikely (almost impossible) that pixel strip blew the board if wired correctly.  The output power for the strip does not go thru the regulator that is for the electronics on the board so it is not likely it blew the regulator (if that is the failure).  The strip does not generate its own power and therefore is unable to return a voltage to the board greater than what you feed it.  

You say your control board is getting really hot. I am not familiar with the Pixie4 but I am guessing it is most likely the regulator that is heating up.. That could mean the regulator has failed or one of the chips is drawing excessive current causing the regulator to dissipate too much heat.   Either way, pretty sure the strip is not to blame. That doesn't mean the strip is not now bad, it just means the strip probably has nothing to do with the board issue.

If you programmed it for the wrong data type, pretty much wouldn't do any damage but wouldn't work right.  That in and of itself could be the data issue.. "could be" but of course I can't be sure.

You mentioned plugging in an Ethernet cable... I assume you meant a Cat5 or similar and are running the LOR protocol from the required dongle.. is that correct?   Since you said the CCR worked fine after you plugged in the other strip and it didn't work I could only assume that you had to be connected via the LOR network or the CCR wouldn't work...

What part is getting hot?  Is it the IC that is in the socket?  Or something else?  I see in the picture for that board there is a socketed IC and those are usually the RS485 chips.  You may have smoked that and it is loading the regulator down... just a thought.  Perhaps with the power off you could pull that chip then apply power to the board and see if the heat issue goes away.  If so, most likely you somehow frapped the comm chip.  That would also explain the loss of communication with the LOR software.  Again, if that is the case I'm pretty sure the strip played no part.  And if that is "it" you most likely caused it somehow yourself. Move forward carefully after you fix the board.  

Once you fix the board, then start on the strip.  If you wire it correctly, that strip has close to zero chance of hurting your board, even if it has a failed pixel.  I could short the V+ to the DI internally with a catastrophic failure, but I have never seen that happen.. Those strips usually go white like that when you power them up with nothing but noise for data.  As for controlling only the first pixel, I assume you mean the first three LEDs as a single pixel.   That could mean the first pixel is trashed or possibly the data protocol is not set correctly.   I vote for the trashed pixel from what you are describing.   Only thing you can do is test on something else or cut it off and try again.... Again, move forward carefully.

Good luck

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4 hours ago, plasmadrive said:

So you don't start pointing fingers where you obviously have no clue of fault, consider finding out what the issue is first before starting off blaming someone's product in a public forum.. Might be a good idea.. just sayin..

It is highly unlikely that pixel strip blew the board if wired correctly. Let me repeat, It is highly unlikely (almost impossible) that pixel strip blew the board if wired correctly.  The output power for the strip does not go thru the regulator that is for the electronics on the board so it is not likely it blew the regulator (if that is the failure).  The strip does not generate its own power and therefore is unable to return a voltage to the board greater than what you feed it.  

You say your control board is getting really hot. I am not familiar with the Pixie4 but I am guessing it is most likely the regulator that is heating up.. That could mean the regulator has failed or one of the chips is drawing excessive current causing the regulator to dissipate too much heat.   Either way, pretty sure the strip is not to blame. That doesn't mean the strip is not now bad, it just means the strip probably has nothing to do with the board issue.

If you programmed it for the wrong data type, pretty much wouldn't do any damage but wouldn't work right.  That in and of itself could be the data issue.. "could be" but of course I can't be sure.

You mentioned plugging in an Ethernet cable... I assume you meant a Cat5 or similar and are running the LOR protocol from the required dongle.. is that correct?   Since you said the CCR worked fine after you plugged in the other strip and it didn't work I could only assume that you had to be connected via the LOR network or the CCR wouldn't work...

What part is getting hot?  Is it the IC that is in the socket?  Or something else?  I see in the picture for that board there is a socketed IC and those are usually the RS485 chips.  You may have smoked that and it is loading the regulator down... just a thought.  Perhaps with the power off you could pull that chip then apply power to the board and see if the heat issue goes away.  If so, most likely you somehow frapped the comm chip.  That would also explain the loss of communication with the LOR software.  Again, if that is the case I'm pretty sure the strip played no part.  And if that is "it" you most likely caused it somehow yourself. Move forward carefully after you fix the board.  

Once you fix the board, then start on the strip.  If you wire it correctly, that strip has close to zero chance of hurting your board, even if it has a failed pixel.  I could short the V+ to the DI internally with a catastrophic failure, but I have never seen that happen.. Those strips usually go white like that when you power them up with nothing but noise for data.  As for controlling only the first pixel, I assume you mean the first three LEDs as a single pixel.   That could mean the first pixel is trashed or possibly the data protocol is not set correctly.   I vote for the trashed pixel from what you are describing.   Only thing you can do is test on something else or cut it off and try again.... Again, move forward carefully.

Good luck

Hey, thank you so much for the info,

Yes, it is LOR's cat5 and dongle (faster one) supplied in the "started kit". I got the pixie4, cables, dongle and purchased 1 CCRII strip WS2811. All working great in testing and playing, Once I got the ray wu strip also 2811 I plugged it in without making any changed in LOR hardware utility being they were both 2811

can you guys confirm for me, maybe I am missing something, that these 2 ribbons are the same protocol? it was mentioned a few times here that I dint set the protocol right but they seem the same to me

this is the ribbon that worked perfect from LOR - http://store.lightorama.com/cocoriiic.html

this is the Ray Wu one I plugged in that did not work - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5m-DC12V-60leds-m-20pcs-ws2811-ic-meter-20pixels-led-digital-strip-IP68-waterproof-in-silicon/1921783413.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.uraGM5

 

thanks again guys for the help. 

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Yes, they are both WS2811. However, they are different strips, the strips from LOR are 30 LEDs per meter or 150 channels per strip. The strips from Ray Wu that you are using are double, they are 60 LEDs per meter or 300 channels per strip.You would need to configure the controller for larger strips as they are not the same as LOR.

Those Ray Wu strips are essentially two LOR strips connected end-to-end.

Edited by Mr. P
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this is a dumb question but where would I set that? I don't see where I can set it to 60 pixels vs 50 or 100 , unfortunately I can't play too much now cause the board is fried but I would like to know for when i get a new board

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You wouldn't set the pixel count you would set the channel count for each port. I don't have a pixie as I use E1.31 so I am not sure how you would set the pixie up. I know on E1.31 controllers you would set port 1 starting channel at 1 and end channel at 300, port 2 would be a start channel of 301 and end channel at 600. Not sure how the pixie is set up.

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gotcha, thanks!

maybe someone pith a pixie4/8/16 can chime in. I have have been looking all over and can't really find too much on it as far as the step by step channel/pixie/led setup per pixie port on the board

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Someone with the newest version of LOR 4.3.18 would be better off chiming in as that version has the support for the pixie.

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Have you checked the fuse on the board?

Have you checked the voltage output on the power supply?

If you're going to continue with this Hobby you should get some basic test equipment plus learn some of the basics of electricity. (Work smarter not harder)

 

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yes, all tested, I do have knowledge of all that fortunately, took a volt meter to the contacts, all 12v and even the ports are outputting 12v , just won't communicate with PC anymore, like plasma drive mentioned above, it could be a blown comm chip 

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You may want to spend a couple of bucks and get something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Mokungit-Upgrated-addressable-controller-connector/dp/B01E3O604S/ref=pd_day0_86_2/159-7430699-9955364?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01E3O604S&pd_rd_r=75TFCQZ06P73MQCD5Z1V&pd_rd_w=p5mPh&pd_rd_wg=MdiqW&psc=1&refRID=75TFCQZ06P73MQCD5Z1V

you can test the strips with it.  They work great.  The comm chips are pretty cheap from Digikey or Mouser if you need one..

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thank you, just ordered the tester

 

I reported the pixie damaged to LOR and they are replacing it for me which is awesome, their customer service is amazing

Edited by brichi

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I wonder why if its only the comm chip the board is getting so hot I can't even touch it with nothing plugged in other then the p/s

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1 hour ago, plasmadrive said:

You may want to spend a couple of bucks and get something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Mokungit-Upgrated-addressable-controller-connector/dp/B01E3O604S/ref=pd_day0_86_2/159-7430699-9955364?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01E3O604S&pd_rd_r=75TFCQZ06P73MQCD5Z1V&pd_rd_w=p5mPh&pd_rd_wg=MdiqW&psc=1&refRID=75TFCQZ06P73MQCD5Z1V

you can test the strips with it.  They work great.  The comm chips are pretty cheap from Digikey or Mouser if you need one..

Thanks for the tip on the tester just bought one didn't know they existed, Dennis

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