dibblejr Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 (edited) Just now, htebault said: I use tomato cage lights and have not had a GFI trip out problem since I began mounting them with PVC pipe. At the top of the cage, I form the wire into a downward center point, then push it onto a PVC pipe. The PVC then fits into a wooden stand, but it isolates the cage completely from ground. I was thinking similar but a broom stick cut up, drive a short section of pvc in the ground run the brook stick in it and just put the tree over the top. Use some zip ties to secure it to 12" spikes. Right now I have mine on the grass and one spike to hold it in place. I was good after the first rain tripped them a couple weeks ago and debris got in the plugs. Was working great through light rain last week but last night and today we had down pours thus one circuit tripping. Im just running without the trees now, low traffic on Sunday nights in the bible belt. If I had a great big AL elephant talking face, Id have people driving in my yard! Priorities. Edited December 19, 2016 by dibblejr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htebault Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 "I was thinking similar but a broom stick cut up, drive a short section of pvc in the ground run the brook stick in it and just put the tree over the top." The first year I used PVC, I did stick it into the turf - but with the rain and wind, it did not hold up. I changed to a wooden base, with holes drilled for the PVC, that has worked out better for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Benson Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 once I went to sealed LED's on my tomato cages, GFI trips were a thing of the past....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobra513 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 A couple of years back I got a deal on a bunch of plastic real tree bases and zip tied by tomato cages to them. Makes them heavy enough to keep them from tipping over and insulates them from shorting or bleeding to ground. Now I just have to figure out something for my wire frame deer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 I have a row of 60 candlesticks that use C-7 bulbs that I modified into a 4-channel chase by cutting and splicing the SPT-1. The problem is the splices lay on the lawn. (It would be impractical and a trip hazard to elevate 60 wires off the ground.) When it rains, I unplug them to prevent a GFCI trip, but I'd like a more elegant solution. The splices are 10 years old and are made with crimp butt connectors with silicone in an attempt to waterproof them, but that is clearly not working. Adding to the problem is the bundle of 4 SPT-1 wires is wrapped with tape every few feet to keep it together, which probably collects water. Any idea how I can solve this GFCI problem for next year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Arch Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 13 minutes ago, Steven said: ....Any idea how I can solve this GFCI problem for next year? Barely viewable at night $3 spt1 splices kits: 3 or 4 empty water bottles taped together to elevate black cheapo wallyworld tub to cover 4 ground spikes to secure in place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 1 hour ago, Steven said: I have a row of 60 candlesticks that use C-7 bulbs that I modified into a 4-channel chase by cutting and splicing the SPT-1. The problem is the splices lay on the lawn. (It would be impractical and a trip hazard to elevate 60 wires off the ground.) When it rains, I unplug them to prevent a GFCI trip, but I'd like a more elegant solution. The splices are 10 years old and are made with crimp butt connectors with silicone in an attempt to waterproof them, but that is clearly not working. Adding to the problem is the bundle of 4 SPT-1 wires is wrapped with tape every few feet to keep it together, which probably collects water. Any idea how I can solve this GFCI problem for next year? You can buy watertight butt connectors or spade connectors. They have grease or oil in them once sealed the entire connection is encased it prevents any water. or the cheaper way would be as Dan shows above. That water sure comes in handy when setting up. There are other ways and everyone will have their own. Whatever works. I Just raised my connections up on my trees, thought I had it kicked and then we had 2 days of torrential down pours so I just disconnected my trees for 1 of the nights. lihht rain was no problem. * Note to self Gotta build a bridge so the UPS and FED EX drivers can strap over the 32 cords all bundled and zip tied together. For whatever reason everyone wants to trip over what appears to be a big log. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 1 hour ago, Steven said: The splices are 10 years old and are made with crimp butt connectors with silicone in an attempt to waterproof them, but that is clearly not working. Adding to the problem is the bundle of 4 SPT-1 wires is wrapped with tape every few feet to keep it together, which probably collects water. Any idea how I can solve this GFCI problem for next year? Re-do the splices and dump the crimps. Solder the splices and cover each splice with the heat shrink tubing that has the goo inside that fills any spaces when it melts. After you have spliced each wire of the SPT, then slide a longer piece of heat shrink tubing that also has the goo inside over the whole splice and heat shrink and then shrink that. Make sure to remember to put the heat shrink over the cable BEFORE you start soldering (don't ask me how I know to do that!). Also remember to let the inner heat shrink tubing cool before trying to slide the outer heat shrink tubing over it (yea, I know that one from bad experience too). The heat shrink over the individual wires should overlap the joint and the insulation on both sides of the soldered joint by at least a quarter inch. The outer piece should overlap the inner heat shrink tubing by at least a quarter inch. Note that if you have a situation where you are soldering in a three way connection (for example a tap for a single light onto a power cord for many lights), that means that one end of the splice will have one wire and the other end will have two wires. On the end that has two wires, squeeze some extra silicon in between and around the two wires before you slide the heat shrink tubing over it. You want to make VERY sure to fill any gaps. This is one of those "take your time and do it right" items. I have splices in my landscape lighting that are out year round and have been for years, so they get sun and rain (on the rare occasion that we get some around here), and the lawn sprinklers (far more often). Never had one fail yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebuechner Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 1 hour ago, k6ccc said: Re-do the splices and dump the crimps. Solder the splices and cover each splice with the heat shrink tubing that has the goo inside that fills any spaces when it melts. After you have spliced each wire of the SPT, then slide a longer piece of heat shrink tubing that also has the goo inside over the whole splice and heat shrink and then shrink that. Make sure to remember to put the heat shrink over the cable BEFORE you start soldering (don't ask me how I know to do that!). Also remember to let the inner heat shrink tubing cool before trying to slide the outer heat shrink tubing over it (yea, I know that one from bad experience too). The heat shrink over the individual wires should overlap the joint and the insulation on both sides of the soldered joint by at least a quarter inch. The outer piece should overlap the inner heat shrink tubing by at least a quarter inch. Note that if you have a situation where you are soldering in a three way connection (for example a tap for a single light onto a power cord for many lights), that means that one end of the splice will have one wire and the other end will have two wires. On the end that has two wires, squeeze some extra silicon in between and around the two wires before you slide the heat shrink tubing over it. You want to make VERY sure to fill any gaps. This is one of those "take your time and do it right" items. I have splices in my landscape lighting that are out year round and have been for years, so they get sun and rain (on the rare occasion that we get some around here), and the lawn sprinklers (far more often). Never had one fail yet. To add to your comment about the 2 to 1 connection with extra silicone. I cut up a few pieces of Hot Melt glue to put around the wires and slide the shrink wrap tubing over it. When you heat the shrink wrap it melts the glue and squeezes the excess out of the end filling every nook and cranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantomtech Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 I made wood bases for my mini trees, and dipped my stakes in Plastidip, and with that combo didn't have problems with my mini trees. Next up is wood bases for my reindeer, and snowman! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Amazon has a range of protections for multiples, this might work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006EUHT2W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1QSVNVEPCFRRY&coliid=I942TNIVWLTU5&psc=1 I used the beer can shape with 2 plug-cords (in a single can) that would have been in puddles on the ground,. My 120V tree ran in the rain with all the vampire plugs exposed to the rain. All were 1' above grade GFCI's do age and get more false trips.(had to replace a few that would just trip turning on a nearby fan that was not on that device) Newer GFCI outlets must have source power to reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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