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John (oldandslow)

E6804 green power flicker

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I have a 6804 that worked perfect last year and this year when I tested it this year, the green power on the board will flicker when I send the test dated thru it and the lights will not go on.

When not running data it is the normal green color. I'm talking about the red and green lights on the board.

What could be wrong?

Thanks for any help I can get.

John (oldandslow)

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k6ccc    500

Flickering green indicates that the board is in one of the test modes. What the flicker rate and intensity varies depending on which test mode.

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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I think that the port is bad because I just put in 5 new pixels and they didn't light so I put them into the second port and reconfigured the board and the new pixels light. 

I am going to reconfigure for the normal lights that I run and let you know.

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Thanks  K6ccc

The port is bad. I checked the fuse and even swapped the fuse with a port that I'm not using.

I reconfigured for the second port and all is well.

I am only running 80 pixels on the port so I'm not sure what went wrong.

I would like to personally thank you for your help the last two years when I changed to pixels. You got me through some challenging times and I'm at this level only because of your input.

I do read a lot on these forums but at my age it takes a little longer to figure out what to do.

Thank you for all you do on these forums and for helping me.

John (oldandslow)

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k6ccc    500

Handy to have an extra port that you could swap to. And it's so easy to do...

Was that a kit built E6804 or did you get it built? If it was a kit, Jim should be able to point you where to look for a fault. If you built it, you should have the tools to troubleshoot and fix it. I had what turned out to be a flaky solder joint on one my kit E682s that I built. Did not spot it either. But one of the 16 outputs had no data. Jim gave me the path from the CPU to the connector. A few minutes of measuring and I had the bad joint identified. Even then it only looked slightly suspect. Reflowed the solder joint and it's now working. I was in the same condition as you - I only needed 10 of the 16 outputs, so I just skipped that cluster.

You're more than welcome for the help. I've been told I should have been a teacher, so maybe its in my blood.

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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Jim, this was my first E6804 I bought from SanDevices fully assembled Two years ago and you gave me the tip to leave a space for more universes to insert which I did. This is the reason I was able to switch so easily.

I might try to fixit after the season.

Thanks again for the input.

John

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