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philw

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Hi if i buy a residential starter pack and a  CMB16D-QC will it do the following (i am in australia)

I can plug 16 channels of light into the main box via plugs

can i wire 5m rgb led strip lighs (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252441412796?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=551301102472&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) into the cmb16d-qc ?

what power pack do i need for the cmb16d-qc, or just it get the power from the  CTB16PC controller

Does this give me 32 channel's ?

Thanks 

Phil

 

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Let me see if i can clear somethings up. You need a starter package if this is your first time with light-o-rams to get the usb adapter and software. For that controller it will give you 16 channels but, because you are in Australia you need this controller to operate at 240V AC as opposed to 120V AC found in the US. I just looked and when you order the CTB16PC controller (comes with the starter kit) there is an option to select 240V  at 50/60 htz. So as long as you do that your golden for that controller. 

Now onto the RBG stuff. Those strips that you found will work. But I couldn't find the CMB16D-QC controller you mentioned. I think thats because they just released a new model the CMB-24. This controller is designed for DC not AC. It has 24 channels so that would actually give you a total of 40 channels. Now I want to point out that because the ribbons are RBG they use three channels. So you can have 8 groups of three channels each. To power these guys it all depends on current. They come with a 12V supply for there little control, however it is a 120V AC to 12v CD You need a 240V AC to 12V DC adapter. Personally I like to use these power supplies https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471094536&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+supply   They can provide up to 30 amps DC way more then this controller will need. And they can be set to 240V AC. (They may say 230V AC) 

Hope this helps !!

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philw, if you want to use the dumb RGB lights then you will have to use the CMB24D as the CMB16D does not do RGB. Think of the CMB16D as the DC version of the AC starter package you want to buy, on/off with no color changing.

The strip lights you posted will work with the CMB24D but you won't use the remote or the little white control box that comes with the lights as the CMB24D will control the lights.

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1 hour ago, Mr. P said:

philw, if you want to use the dumb RGB lights then you will have to use the CMB24D as the CMB16D does not do RGB. Think of the CMB16D as the DC version of the AC starter package you want to buy, on/off with no color changing.

That is incorrect.  The CMB16 does RGB just fine.  The only thing that the CMB24 has that the CMB16 doesn't is 8 more channels, and some switches that allow changing the wiring standard to use the normal pin-out for DMX rather than the normal pin-out used by LOR networking.  Both will run on an enhanced LOR network and at up to 500K speed (although the CMB16 may require a firmware update to do the latter two).  The output wiring on the CMB24 is laid out to be more convenient for RGB, but it is no easier to use than the CMB16.  In fact, just the opposite if you are using some channels for non-RGB applications in that you can quickly run out of + voltage connections on the CMB24.

BTW, I have 36 channels of dumb RGB strips or lights running on three CMB16D-QC controllers every night on my year round landscape lighting - and have been for almost five years.

 

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1 hour ago, k6ccc said:

That is incorrect.  The CMB16 does RGB just fine.  The only thing that the CMB24 has that the CMB16 doesn't is 8 more channels, and some switches that allow changing the wiring standard to use the normal pin-out for DMX rather than the normal pin-out used by LOR networking.  Both will run on an enhanced LOR network and at up to 500K speed (although the CMB16 may require a firmware update to do the latter two).  The output wiring on the CMB24 is laid out to be more convenient for RGB, but it is no easier to use than the CMB16.  In fact, just the opposite if you are using some channels for non-RGB applications in that you can quickly run out of + voltage connections on the CMB24.

BTW, I have 36 channels of dumb RGB strips or lights running on three CMB16D-QC controllers every night on my year round landscape lighting - and have been for almost five years.

 

Thanks for the correction, how do the inputs work on the CMB16 since they are just pos and neg? I mean the CMB24 has eight inputs of pos, R, G, B. The CMB16 has 16 inputs of pos and neg and no mention of RGB in the manual only DC controller.

Edited by Mr. P

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I don't understand your question. What do the inputs have to do with RGB? The only thing inputs are used for is interactive triggers (and those won't work on an enhanced LOR network, BTW).

Or do you mean the outputs on the CMB16D? The outputs on a CMB16D and a CMB24D are exactly the same except they are on a different connector style. The power is pulse width modulated like every other LOR controller to vary the intensity of whatever light is connected. In the case of both the CMB16D and CMB24D the positive output is connected directly to the positive voltage coming in (OK, there is a fuse in the circuit); and the negative for each channel is controlled by a MOSFET that is controlled ultimately by the processor on the board, which in turn takes commands via either the RS-485 network cable coming in, or a stored sequence in the board's memory (when operating in stand alone mode).

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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1 hour ago, k6ccc said:

I don't understand your question. What do the inputs have to do with RGB? The only thing inputs are used for is interactive triggers (and those won't work on an enhanced LOR network, BTW).

Or do you mean the outputs on the CMB16D? The outputs on a CMB16D and a CMB24D are exactly the same except they are on a different connector style. The power is pulse width modulated like every other LOR controller to vary the intensity of whatever light is connected. In the case of both the CMB16D and CMB24D the positive output is connected directly to the positive voltage coming in (OK, there is a fuse in the circuit); and the negative for each channel is controlled by a MOSFET that is controlled ultimately by the processor on the board, which in turn takes commands via either the RS-485 network cable coming in, or a stored sequence in the board's memory (when operating in stand alone mode).

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

Maybe I didn't explain myself clear, on a CMB24 there are eight outputs with each labeled (+RGB) top pic, on the CMB16 there are 16 outputs with each labeled (+ -) bottom pic.

So for a 4wire dumb light how is it wired on a CMB16?

Outputs.jpg

Edited by Mr. P

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4 hours ago, Mr. P said:

Ignore the paragraph - no way to get rid of it...

 

19 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

Maybe I didn't explain myself clear, on a CMB24 there are eight outputs with each labeled (+RGB), on the CMB16 there are 16 outputs with each labeled (+ -).

So for a 4wire dumb light how is it wired on a CMB16?

The labels on the board are just labels - nothing more.  It's just 24 outputs - just as the CMB16 is 16 outputs.  The MOSFETs don't know or care if they are used as part of an RGB set, or for single channel lights.

To wire a RGB light to a CMB16D, goes like this (for example):

Channel 1 minus goes to Red

Channel 2 minus goes to Green

Channel 3 minus goes to Blue

Plus wire from any of those goers to common plus.  If you look at your photo of the CMB16, all the + terminals are common on the PC board.

BTW, there is NOTHING that requires a CMB24 to be used for RGB outputs either.  You could just as easily have a collection of single channel lights connected to the pins labeled as R, G, & B of the first RGB set.  The only issue is you only have one plus connection in the 4 pin connector.

 

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Okay I got it now thanks for clearing that up, I was thinking all these years that it was just an on/off dc controller. So technically you could get six strings on each CMB16.

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1 minute ago, Dennis Laff said:

5 strings   3x5 = 15

Yeah, that's what I meant  :)

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Okay I got it now thanks for clearing that up, I was thinking all these years that it was just an on/off dc controller. So technically you could get six strings on each CMB16.

Five with one spare channel (which is exactly what I am doing on two of mine - and the 16th channel is being used).

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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I have read pretty much all the manuals on the LOR website and it never mentions that it can be used for RGB.

I admit that I don't know everything but I have a good comprehension about LOR and that one threw me for a loop so I can imagine what a newbie thinks.  :)

Sorry for messing up your thread philw. :)

Edited by Mr. P

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1 hour ago, Mr. P said:

I have read pretty much all the manuals on the LOR website and it never mentions that it can be used for RGB.

I admit that I don't know everything but I have a good comprehension about LOR and that one threw me for a loop so I can imagine what a newbie thinks.  :)

Sorry for messing up your thread philw. :)

The CMB16QC will work fine for RGB, it is a DC PWM controller just like the CMB24D. One just has more channels. The 16 channels of the CMB16QC do not divide by three, so you will have one left over.

 

The CMB24D is better value for money for RGB. You can use all 24 channels and they are labelled +, R, G and B.

 

PhilW, you have started about 5 threads in the past week, all asking the same question, but every thread seems to end up in a mess.

 

9 hours ago, bbass101 said:

Let me see if i can clear somethings up. You need a starter package if this is your first time with light-o-rams to get the usb adapter and software. For that controller it will give you 16 channels but, because you are in Australia you need this controller to operate at 240V AC as opposed to 120V AC found in the US. I just looked and when you order the CTB16PC controller (comes with the starter kit) there is an option to select 240V  at 50/60 htz. So as long as you do that your golden for that controller. 

PhilW has already mentioned in previous threads that most of his lights are low voltage. The CTB16PC will not really work. You will only get 0n/off and a slight delay turning on.

So many people who don't know our lights are different are suggesting this. The CTb16PC will really limit your display if you are using your existing lights.

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Just wondering...

What do you mean by "low Voltage" ? The lights he had links to where 12V DC. 

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1 hour ago, bbass101 said:

Just wondering...

What do you mean by "low Voltage" ? The lights he had links to where 12V DC. 

I don't know what the official threshold is for "low voltage" (and I'm sure there is one), but compared to 110 or 220, I'm good with calling 12 "low voltage".

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yep sorry to confuse people i am going  1 x  CTP16-PC to control my 240v plug in lights, A CMB24D to control 8 RGB dumb led light on a xmas tree (8 uprights pieces of timer to form a tree shape) a 1 more CMB24D to control some more Dumb RGB strips along roof line, around windows and a few RGB spot lights....does this sound workable.

One more question when you wire a strip light on a CMB24D board does that give you 3 channels, 1 x red 1 x green and 1 x blue, then you put 8 strip lights on 1 CMB24D board so that is 24 channels, per board?

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10 hours ago, George Simmons said:

I don't know what the official threshold is for "low voltage" (and I'm sure there is one), but compared to 110 or 220, I'm good with calling 12 "low voltage".

ohhhh gotcha

and philw, yes the CMB24D is a 24 channel controller, broken up into 8 groups of 3. And not to open another can of worms but you will only see 8 RBG channels (they appear black) in the sequence editor.

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